DAMMIT! That means I painted without the zinc, and now can't get to the rust surface! It's like dried chewing gum, no idea how to shift it. The clumps don't mix back in. I am speaking to the company to check batch numbers. I have one of those drill stirring attachments but it's huge, wont fit in this lickle tin! (250ml)
Best paint over fresh weld?
- Thread starter john snoo
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I'm sure it'll still give good protection, as it's really very good.
That sounds like it's been in storage for ages. I've managed to re-combine the sludge off the bottom on a can that has been sitting for at least 5 years. I buy it in 1Ltr cans, as it's such useful stuff, but it also means I can power mix it.
Yes I will go for 1l next time for that reason too.
I have heard back and they said:
"Thank you for the photo.
No the stock is not old, no more than 3 weeks at most, we only just replenished that size tin from Bonda at the beginning of the month, it had been out of stock for ages at the factory so we know its new as they had to manufacture it fresh first.
Do you have the batch number, it should be on the tin or the lid."
So apparently it's not old batch. FInd that hard to believe, that's a whole lot of settling that's happened there!
I have heard back and they said:
"Thank you for the photo.
No the stock is not old, no more than 3 weeks at most, we only just replenished that size tin from Bonda at the beginning of the month, it had been out of stock for ages at the factory so we know its new as they had to manufacture it fresh first.
Do you have the batch number, it should be on the tin or the lid."
So apparently it's not old batch. FInd that hard to believe, that's a whole lot of settling that's happened there!
Got myself one of these, if anything will work that should!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202936809724?hash=item2f3ff9f8fc:g:VG8AAOSwm-deb5o6
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202936809724?hash=item2f3ff9f8fc:g:VG8AAOSwm-deb5o6
frog hopper
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I use a steel tent peg for stirring small tins of paint in a battery drill, just use a hammer to flatten out the curly end a bit. Works a lot better than a paddle.
I’ve just bought a tin off eBay as well based on this thread. I’m going to leave it on a shelf upside down until I need it then give it a good stir.Well I got my bonda primer. Nobody told me it's the colour of Tango
Amazing stuff as many have said above. Bonds brilliantly. I hammered and scrubbed off all loose rust then painted on. boy it goes a long way too which is good at fifteen squid a tin! Can see me using a lot of this. I have a rusty hona quad which really needs some kind of protection, and I fancy cleaning underneath and using this on it too, orange top, orange bottom.
Only question is, i bought a tin off ebay and there's a VERY thick and heavy sludge/sediment in the bottom which doesn't want to stir in. Old stock maybe, anyone had that before?
At least that way I’ll be able to lick it offWon't all the goodness then stick to the lid, where it'll be difficult to mix back in?
Update - after ten minutes with a screw driver, crushing the big chunks from the bottom, I did manage to get it all dissolved back in. its more red than orange now
Damn good stuff I have to say!
My only question now is whether it should be overcoated. the manufacturer told me it should be overcoated, but it seems pretty durable to me as is. Two coats even more so.
Damn good stuff I have to say!
My only question now is whether it should be overcoated. the manufacturer told me it should be overcoated, but it seems pretty durable to me as is. Two coats even more so.
Used a whole pot of this now and got another one coming.
I have a question, if this stuff is as good as it seems, why wouldn't we consider using it on Landy chassis instead of the usual waxoyl type products? I have some Bilt Hamber products ready to do my chassis when I can, but wondering why not use this?
P.S. A word of warning to those who hear about it on this thread - I have painted a trailer with Bonda, I didnt use a face mask but I wish I did. Lungs and throat feel burned, definitely need a mask if not using outdoors, and to be honest even stirring it outdoors I could still feel its effects so I think it's pretty noxious stuff!
I have a question, if this stuff is as good as it seems, why wouldn't we consider using it on Landy chassis instead of the usual waxoyl type products? I have some Bilt Hamber products ready to do my chassis when I can, but wondering why not use this?
P.S. A word of warning to those who hear about it on this thread - I have painted a trailer with Bonda, I didnt use a face mask but I wish I did. Lungs and throat feel burned, definitely need a mask if not using outdoors, and to be honest even stirring it outdoors I could still feel its effects so I think it's pretty noxious stuff!
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I got a half litre can of the bonda from a bay supplier this week. Big lump of solid in it, sludge in the bottom of the can and the remainder like brown water. Supplier gave an instant refund (so fair play to them). Reckon there must be an old batch finding its way onto the bay . Think I'll have a go with frog hopper's tent peg method and see if I can make it useable.
. Think I'll have a go with frog hopper's tent peg method and see if I can make it useable.Ha, YES! Don't throw it, I can assure you it's perfect once mixed.
I had the same, ebay seller said they sell loads but have been out of stock so that "know" they have brand new batch which has "only just been made". Yeah, bollox! They sent me another free of charge so I am not complaining, as both were fine after a REALLY slow stir/mix of that sludge layer, eventually it dissolves back in as someone above said. I just used a screw driver and kept folding and breaking up the sludge, 5-10 minutes of hard work and it's back to bright red and i assume perfectly fine and usable. Smelly though!
I had the same, ebay seller said they sell loads but have been out of stock so that "know" they have brand new batch which has "only just been made". Yeah, bollox! They sent me another free of charge so I am not complaining, as both were fine after a REALLY slow stir/mix of that sludge layer, eventually it dissolves back in as someone above said. I just used a screw driver and kept folding and breaking up the sludge, 5-10 minutes of hard work and it's back to bright red and i assume perfectly fine and usable. Smelly though!
Bonda does suffer contents settlement, but it doesn't happen over night. A good stirring is needed, to redistribute the contents, then it's fine to use. It's not a very well known product, and I've never seen large scale advertising like other brands do. I got to hear about it from a marine engineer, who used it in his job as a rust prevention measure.
I've been using it for 30 years, on everything from classic car chassis refurbishments, to inner and outer sill protection, engine blocks, suspension components, and rusting corrugated roof panels, if it's made of ferrous metal, Bonda does the job.
I've been using it for 30 years, on everything from classic car chassis refurbishments, to inner and outer sill protection, engine blocks, suspension components, and rusting corrugated roof panels, if it's made of ferrous metal, Bonda does the job.
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Successfully re-mixed the contents of the tin into a useable paint .
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flat
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As for over coating, I have a friend with an trailer he painted the metal frame in bonda primer a good number of years ago, meant to over coat it and just didn’t get round to it. It lives in his garden and the Bonda primer is holding up just fine amazingly.
It really is good paint.
It really is good paint.
Bloo disco 2
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Hi guys
Can i just ask does Bonda kill rust, can it be applied to a wire brushed area with a little fine rust on the surface?
Just asking as i have a couple of rust patches on the inner near side wing under the bonnet and want to stop it before it gets any worse (It's not that bad) so it doesn't turn into a major job.
If not then i will go down the rust killer and waxoil.
Thanks
Andy
Can i just ask does Bonda kill rust, can it be applied to a wire brushed area with a little fine rust on the surface?
Just asking as i have a couple of rust patches on the inner near side wing under the bonnet and want to stop it before it gets any worse (It's not that bad) so it doesn't turn into a major job.
If not then i will go down the rust killer and waxoil.
Thanks
Andy
I've found that it does indeed seem to stop rust from getting worse.
Rust is Iron Oxide, so sealing out the oxygen, will reduce the speed of the rusting process.
I personally would treat the rusted area before painting, so reducing any chances of further rusting.
I like to use abrasive removal, followed by chemical removal using an organic acid.
After washing and thoroughly drying the area, Bonda can be pretty much guaranteed to stop any future rusting, dead in its tracks.
