L322 Beautification process completed

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nevillen

nevillen

Well-Known Member
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Location
london
The old girl scrubs up Ok, Here are some images of the newly 'tarted up' rear sills and jacking points with beautification (rust hiders) back in place with healthy heplings of waxoyl in its cavities , ooh are missus!
Hopefully we won't be tin worm fighting for a little while!

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Very tidy, would you like to come to York and weld a new sill on my Citroen C8 please as we had a bit of an incident with a low wall :p:p:p
Tricky :)
 
We have already 'rearranged' various mayoral obstacles placed by Sadist Khan without any notocable damage, unfortunately Alan The Welder who did the braising is retiring, we did all the prep and there was a HELL of a lot!
 
Looks like I’ll have to do it myself. It’ll be good practice for the Range wheel arches lol. Only joking about the wheel arches, I wouldn’t even dream of taking them on having read some of the LZ posts about that job. Just need a decent panel beater.
Enjoy your revitalised Range.
Tricky :)
 
nevillen said:
We have already 'rearranged' various mayoral obstacles placed by Sadist Khan without any notocable damage, unfortunately Alan The Welder who did the braising is retiring, we did all the prep and there was a HELL of a lot!
Click to expand...
I presume you meant Alan gas welded, as in oxy acetylene... if he actually brazed the repairs then the job wasn't done correctly.
 
To be fair it does look gas welded to me but it has been painted over. Was there any braising involved is the question? Answers on a “post”..!! :p
Tricky. :)
 
A bit of both maybe? Personally I think it was gas welded but others think it was braised to keep the temperature down. All I know is that it was a neat job done by someone who was proud of his work, as anexample, I provided one new jacking point insert and an original, I also purchased some 'equivalent' bits of E-Spray, when I got home I tried to fit the cheepie but it would not fit the precise gap despite supposed serial numbers being correct Put in a proper one orfered through Amazon ironically which is where I got the first one from (see previous thread for link) tapped the pn in with a hammer and then Bob's your Uncle, two jacking points you could metaphorically eat your dinner off! It is ALMOST a pleasure to be working underneath without rust debris and crap dropping down.
 
myfirstl322 said:
Isn't brazing basically soldering?

I know braising is good for meat.
Click to expand...
Soldering is done with lead/tin, soft metals, brazing is done with a hard brass alloy. It was good enough for a lot of the space frame on my club racing car where is was used in preference to welding to make removing damaged bits easier, so I see no problem in its use on car panels except main structural parts
 
Datatek said:
Soldering is done with lead/tin, soft metals, brazing is done with a hard brass alloy. It was good enough for a lot of the space frame on my club racing car where is was used in preference to welding to make removing damaged bits easier, so I see no problem in its use on car panels except main structural parts
Click to expand...
Ok... but a jacking point within 300mm (Mot testable zone) of a subframe mounting
is kinda structural.
 
(From the google, pertaining to Uk Mot)
You cannot accept the following bonding processes for repairs to load-bearing members:

  • gas brazing
  • soldering
  • adhesive bonding
  • fibre reinforcement
  • body filler
If you cannot tell which the repair method, you should accept the repair and tell the vehicle presenter.
...................................................................................................................

I agree with Tricky though, it appears in the main to be welded, and if the tester can't tell (or see) then it'll be a pass.

I had to gently 'educate' the tester of my Transit over a sill repair I'd made (proper removal and fitment of new section) he said the pinch seam MUST be seam welded and not plug welded as I'd done... he was wrong of course and he crumbled easily (a bit like the original sill).

Had it been just a cover patch then yes, it would've needed to be fully seam welded.
 
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