Always welding trailers at work, all have fridge engines, and battery never gets given a thought, in fact I only thought about it as I read your post!
Most are small fast welds, not often longer than 6 inches.
Disco 3 (LR3) Battery charging, stupid question.
- Thread starter Maurand
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Always welding trailers at work, all have fridge engines, and battery never gets given a thought, in fact I only thought about it as I read your post!
Most are small fast welds, not often longer than 6 inches.
sierrafery
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The thing is that it's enough to be unlucky once in a lifetime with an expensive vehicle then you'll remember the bill
They are all expensive and all very very complicated, we cannot even test some of the wiring as they run on pwm signals and we do not have the kit.
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...which is also why when jump starting a vehicle from one that is running, the running vehicle should switch on all the stuff, i.e. heater fans, lights rear window heater etc, so the sudden loss of load when the other vehicle's batt is disconnected doesn't upset the running vehicle's alternator.
It used to be possible, in the days of dynamos, to take a good batt off a vehicle, remove the flat batt off another vehicle, connect the good batt to the one with the flat batt, start it then leave it running while you swapped the batts over again. But do that with an alternator and you are asking for trouble.
God I am old!
Absolutely.
It's much the same, although the risk of damage with jump leads is higher. Power from a fully charged battery is supplied via the jump leads to the dead battery, in the same way that power is fed from a battery charger to the dead battery. If hundreds of Amps supplied by jump leads doesn't do any damage, then a few Amps supplied by a toy battery charger won't.
Precisely, which is what I said initially. The battery will absorb any tiny transients from this tiny battery charger, so it's perfectly safe to keep the battery connected.
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