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Any clues on how to remove the nuts on the front ball joins they just seem to keep turning I’ve tried putting an Allen key in the bolt but it’s solid 1999 4,6
P38A Ball joints
- Thread starter pete12345
- Start date
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Heat.
Blanco
Member
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- North Tipperary
Not sure which one we are talking about here but clamping (big G-clamp) or jacking (assuming you aren't on a lift) can work to reset the taper, also make sure the threads are totally brushed clean and WD40'd before you start, if the nut has undone a thread or two and then jammed do it back up first and reclean the threads.
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- 2,427
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- Isle Sheppy
Heat wammers bloody 27 degrees already will give it a try cheers
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- Isle Sheppy
Cleaned all the threads up and got it glowing but all that’s happening is it’s finger loose now but won’t go down the thread any further would it be ok to disc cut it off and still be able to push it out cheers
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- 2,427
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- Isle Sheppy
Cut it off now is the bottom adjusting nut 32mm probably will be as that’s the size I ain’t got
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
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- 20,065
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Do not play with the big nut or you will have to reset the height so it does not destroy your shaft seal.
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- 16,358
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- Benfleet, Essex
"Oops?"
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I thought you had to remove that big nut to press them out no I was going to replace the seal
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- 19,297
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
If the shaft isn't absolutely smack bang in the middle of the seal it will rub and spinning as it does it won't take long. Need a special tool although you can bodge something. If you don't touch the alignment it shouldn't need adjusting.
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So I can press out the joint with that nut in place
norseman
Well-Known Member
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- 3,259
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- Essex - UK
I know some folks have success with WD as a releasing agent, but that's not it's function (WD = water dispersant)
The best product I've found over the years is Duck-oil, spray bottle is better than aerosol.
Just my opinion … sorry WD users.
WD 40 do make a penetrating fluid, I have a can, works for me.
frostythor
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If I read this correct, your trying to remove the ball joint, but its turning when you try to take off the nut, if this is correct, then to stop it turning so you can completed the removal of the nut, you need to jack up the bit your trying to remove so the taper is forced back up in the hole until it grips the ball joint shaft, a trolly jack of use a long bar to put pressure on the part you want to remove
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tomcat59alan
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What nut Pete? Photos required. If you have taken the drive shaft nut off and the wheel bearing housing bolts and the abs sensor the housing will tap off . With track rod end released,and the swivel nuts removed /cut off then the swivel hub can be removed leaving you with the swivel joints in the axle yoke.
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frostythor
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I'm with Norseman about WD 40, water dispersant 40th time the tried to get it working , when I was in the military it was eventual banned as it promoted rust
oldtel48
Member
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- Colchester
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oldtel48
Member
- Posts
- 47
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- Colchester
The nut you are talking about is the adjustment collet put a balljoint splitter in the gap on the top and bottom balljoint but you must take the hub out first if as I understand that you are going to fit new swivels
frostythor
Well-Known Member
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- NEW FOREST
Hi again, I downloaded the P38 manual, and I can see that the set up is very similar to my Disco 2
as you can see the nut your trying to remove on my car is in fact a Tension collet n ow if you compare the P38 manual drawing we see that the item your trying to remove is the same
and in fact it only mentions the ball joint nut all thought you can see the item in the drawing
as you can see the nut your trying to remove on my car is in fact a Tension collet n ow if you compare the P38 manual drawing we see that the item your trying to remove is the same
and in fact it only mentions the ball joint nut all thought you can see the item in the drawing
