Bad shuddering and rattles.

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1997 Discovery

Active Member
Posts
539
Location
Near Worthing, West Sussex, UK
Hello all.

This is my first post in this section as I'm trying help dad out with this issue.

Basically dad was driving at 30mph give or take when his 1971 SWB series 3 started to shudder to violently that the rear of the exhaust fell off.

Today we have had a play to see what has happened.

Sometimes the landy shuddered just doing gentle slow speed and a rattle can be heard coming from the front, from outside of the landy but only when it shudders, and this is not all of the time.

When parked on a slope with the hand break off sometimes the landy will not roll down and can be hard to pull away, like if the hand break was stuck on, and other times is fine.

Changing to four wheel drive has not made any difference though we think pulling away am be easier.

Besides replacing the diff oil and transfer box oil, we are at a stump, and was hoping that there maybe an easy answer to the problem. Without the need fr a garage at this time.

Any thoughts would be great at the moment though diff and transfer box is what we are thinking.

Again it does it regularly but not all the time., every few hundred yards if that.

Much appreciated

Nigel
 
Sounds like the brakes could be binding. Try jacking up each wheel in turn, spin the wheel to check it moves freely, apply handbrake then release again, respin wheel then try the same with the footbrake.
 
Check the parking brake itself - I've seen the linings on those delaminate (rust) so the damn thing acts like the parking brake is dragging even though it is "off".

Secondly - check the propshafts -a bad/dry/binding U joint can cause all sorts of insanity.
 
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Check the engine and gearbox mounting rubbers as if they are sheared all sorts of strange things happen.
Also worth jacking up front and spinning wheels to see if brakes binding or whether 4wd is engaged.
 
As its is getting warmer and a bit dryer now, we are going to have another and more in debth look into this fault.

Was wondering is there a way to engage four wheel drive, but to disengage the rear axle in order to have front wheel drive only - call it process of elimation :)
 
As its is getting warmer and a bit dryer now, we are going to have another and more in debth look into this fault.

Was wondering is there a way to engage four wheel drive, but to disengage the rear axle in order to have front wheel drive only - call it process of elimation :)

Taking the rear propshaft off will let you do that, and it's not a bad idea.

I've got a hunch that one of your front brake shoes has come apart or there's a broken return spring in one of them. You only need to take the wheels off and then two screws on each drum to get them off. Not a big job.
 
Fingers crossed - i will keep everyone posted on the progress and outcomes as it be great to get back on the road.

Its a 1971 Series 3 never been restored, and only major welding was a rear cross member, thought the top of the bulk head is in a sorry state and there is not much holding the door hinges on, but apart from that its in pretty good nick.
 
Just an update and some good news, as we had a better look last week.

The fault does lie with the hand break, seems the drum is doing what it should, but the hand break lever linkages are seized.

If I release the hand break lever and release the mechanism under the landy all seems fine and drives as it should. The moment the hand break goes on, and then releases, it's a case of going back underneath.

For now have soaked all the linkages in penetrating oil, to see if that frees it up after some use. Failing that we will see what needs to be removed then cleaned up or replaced.

We did try removing the hand break drum with the six bolts removed, but it was firmly stuck on unfortunately, and the small square end of the break adjuster also sheered off to, but that never has never been required to move for the past 40 years, so I am hoping it will be ok for now to.
 
Good news it was just the parking break, it seems to be all free and working as it should, the hand break linkages had seized around what I can tell looks like a bush.

One the nyloc nut had been loosened, more oil could be used, though the nut was a pain to re-tighten as the whole lot wanted to turn with it, so with a pair of good mole grips and a spanner finally got it tightened, and all seems to be working as it should.

Many thanks for all your replies.

Next topic will be about the bulk head.

Thanks again
 
I have added a grease nipple and grease holes to the handbrake linkage pivot. When I put mine together, hopefully greasing this occasionally will stop the linkage from binding.
 
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