Back lash !!!

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Rob M

New Member
Posts
11
Location
Aberdeen
Hi i have just got me a 300tdi manual disco, 187 k miles. I am now going set about fixing all the bits and bobs that need doing and the first thing is the drive train back lash. Do i start from the half shafts and work back to the gearbox ? i can turn the rear prop about half a turn i have also checked the rear a frame ball joint with a bar and can not get any movement so a i assume all is ok with that,........ any advise chaps.

Rob :confused:
 
Thanks, it just the clunking and slapping on take up and over run that gets on ya wick a bit, i shall move on to the suspention then going to lift it an inch or two any suggestions ?
 
Do i start from the half shafts and work back to the gearbox ? :confused:

That's the way to do it...........i had the same prob...on mine the diff was threaded. First of all remove the propshaft and see where do u have a bigger lash in the diff's or in the TB's output.
 
You will have a fair amount of slop in the transfer box, but most of it will be the diffs.

The centre pin wears the holes in the cage to elongated slots, so the diff cage turns quite a bit before the half shafts do.

I discovered this when I fitted my lockers. It now drives much more quietly, although it won't be any more mechanically sound. The clonking from worn diffs is purely annoying, unlikely to get worse or fail completely.

Cheers, sam
 
Cheers i think i will live with it untill funds permit, my suspention is more important now i am getting sea sick so it will soon be 2 inches higher !! ready for the chunky tires :)
 
LOL
I'm in the same boat as you. The clunk and jerk drives me crazy, especially on a trail decending down a steep, rocky slope.
I have just forked out a few bucks on the old Landy (D1 V8 btw). My parts are enroute from Ashcroft Tansmissions in the UK. I decided to finally stick an ARB locker in the rear diff and while I had the rear drive train in pieces, I decided to fit HD side shafts, HD ring and pinion and HD driving members. I also ordered a rebuilt transfer box with a HD cross pin for the CDL. That'll sort out most of the slop in my drive train. Next will be to fit new lay and mainshafts to the gearbox when I finally get around to fitting my new clutch.
Damn the list never ends !!!!
 
Yep you gotta love them, they seem to make your arms shorter or your pocket deeper, i am still smiling every moring when i get in the beast to got work !!
 
LOL
I'm in the same boat as you. The clunk and jerk drives me crazy, especially on a trail decending down a steep, rocky slope.
I have just forked out a few bucks on the old Landy (D1 V8 btw). My parts are enroute from Ashcroft Tansmissions in the UK. I decided to finally stick an ARB locker in the rear diff and while I had the rear drive train in pieces, I decided to fit HD side shafts, HD ring and pinion and HD driving members. I also ordered a rebuilt transfer box with a HD cross pin for the CDL. That'll sort out most of the slop in my drive train. Next will be to fit new lay and mainshafts to the gearbox when I finally get around to fitting my new clutch.
Damn the list never ends !!!!

I can bet that after that will be no clunk/backlash
 
i have same prob on v8 disco auto,k reg,are the axles same as 200 or 300 diesels,as there is 4 getting broke near me,and im sure out the 4 there will be a better axle,
 
Petrol and diesel have same axle, just make sure you get a 200 shape. You could get a 300 shape if it is complete, it's the better axle but you cant use any of your parts, needs to be complete 300 axle!
 
ill get the 300 then,will it go straight on,just disconnect shocks,trailing arms,prop,brake pipes to calipers,there is 4 discos getting broke,i think the newest is n reg,i gather it will be a 300,
 
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