Freelander 1 Aux belt snapped. Will not start. Is it dead?

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Hopo

Hopo

Member
Posts
55
Hi all. I think I posted this in the wrong thread so reposting here. Will try and delete the other one. Sorry about that. I was driving home the other night and for a minute heard what now is obviously the belt flapping before it snapped. Engine cut out immediately and couldn't re start. Called recovery who couldn't start it and said it may not start cause the alternator isn't turning. I thought it would have started off the battery. The battery is good. So was towed home. Can aux belt snapping cause major problems? Mate of mine had his snap and was able to drive home with loss of power steering etc. any ideas appreciated. 2.0td4 2003

Cheers
 
Unlikely to be to do with the alternator.
The belt will have flailed and killed something electrical as it went...

If it were a petrol/L series I'd be suspicious that it'd taken the timing belt out, but chain on the td4.

Code reader will tell you what got bashed, unless there's someone on here who's had it before.
 
I've pulled my engine out this week and had a look at the wiring looms..
nothing too close to the aux. pulley area, except the MAP Sensor / Boost Control Valve wiring.. possibly..
I will upload the pictures in hope that they are of use.
 
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Mine started and ran fine with a snapped belt. Not recommended for long though as the aux belt drives the water pump on the td4.
 
Thanks for advice and photos are very useful, I'll have a look tomorrow when I've got a day off and see if I can see anything obvious on the electrics. Yes it's cranking when I turn the key just not firing.
 
It shouldn't happen... but.... have you tried the Fuel Cut-off switch behind the engine bay fuse board...- press the rubberised red button to see if the fuel pump makes a buzz - or indeed fires up!
10 seconds under the bonnet for a quick "start" or "no start"
 
Thanks for your input so far guys, photos were really helpful. I've managed to get a look at it in the daylight, and whilst aux belt is very slightly frayed, it is still attached and complete. The compressor belt has disappeared somewhere on route, so it looks like this is what went and frayed the side of the aux belt on it's way. No idea why this would render the thing immobile. Doesn't explain why the bugger won't start either! Fuel cut off is on. No obvious electrical disconnects. Now I'm stumped. Any more ideas or anyone in South East London with a code reader I could borrow?
 
Update on this. Had a good look around and cannot see any obvious electronic disconnects. Had a friend come round with snap-on ethos diagnostics, plugged it in no fault codes read at all. Tried easy-start no joy whatsoever. Now stumped. Engine struggling to turn over now so got the battery off to recharge it overnight, and I'll give it another go tomorrow. Anyone for anymore ideas?
 
Hi GrumpyGel, last time I tried it wasn't sounding normal. Can only explain it as going 123....4 123....4 like it's really struggling to turn over. I put this down to being the battery running down which i've since taken off and recharging overnight. Yes the aux belt is turning. I'm going to reconnect battery tomorrow and give it another go to see if it sounds normal again.
 
Right, I was just wondering if the crank shaft had broke. I don't know what happens when it does - but if it had the other end to the starter motor (ie the aux belt) wouldn't turn! I only thought it 'cos TD4s are known for it.
 
It's turning over just very sluggishly, if crank shaft had broke it would show on diagnostics, or engine light would be on on the dashboard I think. Not sure whether I should fork out on getting it towed to a garage only for them to tell me it's no good.
 
I've spent the last couple of hours underneath the old thing. It seems that the entire compressor belt has been pulled in and wrapped around the inside of the crankshaft pulley. You couldn't see it to begin with then I just caught a glimpse of a tiny bit of it sticking out. Pulled on it with some mole grips and managed to get some of it out but the rest remains firmly wrapped up in there steel bands and all. So 2 questions to you experts.

1. Is the compressor belt wrapped around the inside of the crankshaft pulley enough to hold the engine back from starting?
2. How the bloody hell do I get the crankshaft pulley off and is it a big job to be attempted by an amateur like me? The Haynes manual may as well be written in hieroglyphics!!

Cheers guys.
 
Last edited:
the bolt on the crankshaft is very very tight they recommend taking the starter off and locking the engine ,that's done with a piece of metal bolting onto the fly wheel and then onto the outside of the gear box , BUT if you get a friend to get in and put the brakes on and with it in gear it is possible to get that bolt off with a long bar.
hope this helps
 
Cheers teddywood, as mine's an auto box can I just put it in drive and hold foot brake whilst I crack the nut? Also does the Pulley have to be marked as to where I put it back on, I think as it's a td4 it's independent of timing so I assume it can be just put back on any way and it shouldn't matter. Got a day off tomorrow will see if I can crack it.
 
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