Disco 3 (LR3) Automatic gearbox oil & filter change tips/advice

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Irishrover

Irishrover

Well-Known Member
Posts
5,317
Location
La Trimouille, Vienne, France
Hi Guys.....I think it's about time that the auto transmission is due for an oil & filter change (6 Speed) on a TDV6.
I am looking at fitting a quick change kit with a metal sump pan and also giving it a dose of Dr Tranny additive as I am getting slight vibration at around 1500/2000 r.p.m. (Approx.45-50 MPH)
I am aware of the "Mega Flush" option but I want to do the job myself. I appreciate that simply draining the fluid does not remove all of the fluid so can anyone give me any tips as to how I may be able to drain the maximum amount from the box & possibly the Torque Convertor.
Cheers fellas & Gals
 
Irishrover said:
Hi Guys.....I think it's about time that the auto transmission is due for an oil & filter change (6 Speed) on a TDV6.
I am looking at fitting a quick change kit with a metal sump pan and also giving it a dose of Dr Tranny additive as I am getting slight vibration at around 1500/2000 r.p.m. (Approx.45-50 MPH)
I am aware of the "Mega Flush" option but I want to do the job myself. I appreciate that simply draining the fluid does not remove all of the fluid so can anyone give me any tips as to how I may be able to drain the maximum amount from the box & possibly the Torque Convertor.
Cheers fellas & Gals
Click to expand...

Hi mate

Here u go

https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/filos-autobox-oil-change-55010.html?highlight=How+to+gearbox

What ATF oil are u going for plse

Reminds me I’ve got to also do mine , not keen on powerflushing and will just drain and refill

As you’ve got issues I also believe ur not supposed to reset the adaptions

Hope that helps
 
Irishrover said:
Hi Guys.....I think it's about time that the auto transmission is due for an oil & filter change (6 Speed) on a TDV6.
I am looking at fitting a quick change kit with a metal sump pan and also giving it a dose of Dr Tranny additive as I am getting slight vibration at around 1500/2000 r.p.m. (Approx.45-50 MPH)
I am aware of the "Mega Flush" option but I want to do the job myself. I appreciate that simply draining the fluid does not remove all of the fluid so can anyone give me any tips as to how I may be able to drain the maximum amount from the box & possibly the Torque Convertor.
Cheers fellas & Gals
Click to expand...


Follow Garys link as thats how I did mine, dont bother with the sump or filter, can all be done from under the bonnet, no mess, less than 45 mins start to finish.
i used Mannol AG55 oil.
 
gstuart said:
Hi mate

Here u go

https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/filos-autobox-oil-change-55010.html?highlight=How+to+gearbox

What ATF oil are u going for plse

Reminds me I’ve got to also do mine , not keen on powerflushing and will just drain and refill

As you’ve got issues I also believe ur not supposed to reset the adaptions

Hope that helps
Click to expand...
Thanks Bud for that.
Going for Mannol ATF AG55 (10 Litres).
I use Mannol 5-30 Synthetic in the engine and am happy with the quality, plus it meets the API spec's.
Hope your keeping well.

lynall said:
Follow Garys link as thats how I did mine, dont bother with the sump or filter, can all be done from under the bonnet, no mess, less than 45 mins start to finish.
i used Mannol AG55 oil.
Click to expand...

Hi Lynall...from what I have read, the "Surging" and judder is down to fluid deterioration and is quite a common problem, so for my peace of mind, that's the reason for changing the filter/sump assembly for the easy fit one plus a couple of tubes of Dr Tranny additive which seems to be highly rated. So much for the LR "Sealed for life" statement !! The car has done 165K and I understand LR, later as an afterthought reccomend fluid & filter change at 150K.
 
Just had a read of the procedure shown in the link you sent me...looks like the way I shall do it. I will measure how much is removed, plus how much comes out when I remove the sump plug before I replace the filter/new sump unit.
I like his refill gizmo, it's a variation on the Gunson pressurised brake bleeding kit so I shall knock something similar up for the refill. As I shall be working under the car to do the filter, it should be easier to do a final fluid level check and top up if needed. I guess air pressure of around 1.5 bar (20 psi) should get the fluid out & in.
Cheers again Bud....You are a master at sussing the links out !!! :D:D:):)
 
Irishrover said:
Thanks Bud for that.
Going for Mannol ATF AG55 (10 Litres).
I use Mannol 5-30 Synthetic in the engine and am happy with the quality, plus it meets the API spec's.
Hope your keeping well.



Hi Lynall...from what I have read, the "Surging" and judder is down to fluid deterioration and is quite a common problem, so for my peace of mind, that's the reason for changing the filter/sump assembly for the easy fit one plus a couple of tubes of Dr Tranny additive which seems to be highly rated. So much for the LR "Sealed for life" statement !! The car has done 165K and I understand LR, later as an afterthought reccomend fluid & filter change at 150K.
Click to expand...


The filter is not a filter as we know it ie like a fuel or oil filter which filters down to so many microns, its a real crude affair and all it will stop is large chunks of debris.
The new oil and the drtanny will do what you need it to.
I think the 150k for all trans oils, gearbox/diffs and tfer box has been there from day one, but I think the interval has dropped as a recommendation only!

When an auto trans filter blocks, the gearbox just stops working due to lack of oil.

Getting the oe plastic sump off is a bit of a cock as you have to break the plastic pipe that links the filter to the gearbox itself.
With the new metal sump make sures the gasket faces are squeaky clean as apparently some people have had leaks afterwards, mines been fine for over 4 years.
 
lynall said:
The filter is not a filter as we know it ie like a fuel or oil filter which filters down to so many microns, its a real crude affair and all it will stop is large chunks of debris.
The new oil and the drtanny will do what you need it to.
I think the 150k for all trans oils, gearbox/diffs and tfer box has been there from day one, but I think the interval has dropped as a recommendation only!

When an auto trans filter blocks, the gearbox just stops working due to lack of oil.

Getting the oe plastic sump off is a bit of a cock as you have to break the plastic pipe that links the filter to the gearbox itself.
With the new metal sump make sures the gasket faces are squeaky clean as apparently some people have had leaks afterwards, mines been fine for over 4 years.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that info.
Watched a video on You Tube posted by Atlantic British regarding fitting the new modification. It appears that the original sump & filter is one unit. When the sump bolts are removed, the sump is lowered slightly and this allows for a hacksaw blade to be inserted in the gap to cut the plastic stand pipe through and the sump removed. The remaining part of the pipe is then pulled out of the gearbox.
The new filter is inserted and is retained, the sump pan & gasket is then fitted.
 
Irishrover said:
Thanks for that info.
Watched a video on You Tube posted by Atlantic British regarding fitting the new modification. It appears that the original sump & filter is one unit. When the sump bolts are removed, the sump is lowered slightly and this allows for a hacksaw blade to be inserted in the gap to cut the plastic stand pipe through and the sump removed. The remaining part of the pipe is then pulled out of the gearbox.
The new filter is inserted and is retained, the sump pan & gasket is then fitted.
Click to expand...


I was in a rush so just snapped mine off!
The bolts one end of the sump are to close to use a socket so you need a spanner 1/2 a turn at a time.
It is one of them jobs that people make a big palava about and when you do it you wonder what all the fuss was about?
 
Update
All the materials arrived for the service. Modified Sump pan & filter kit for the transmission, diff., transfer box and engine oil plus filters and front caliper service kit (Pistons, seals etc.). Overhauled the rear calipers when I did the rear suspension a few months ago and it made a big difference to the braking.
Now back to the original topic....
Had a read of the link relating to the transmission drain posted on the Disco 3 forum and today decided to make a start. Disconnected the top hose to the transmission cooler, extended it with a length of 10mm bore clear plastic hose into a bucket. The other half started the engine and I was astounded by the colour of the fluid which was being pumped out-it was jet black :eek: !! Measured the quantity and there was 3.5 litres, not counting the 2 litres of clean fluid that I fed into the box via the stub pipe on the cooler. The colour improved slightly and I assume that the new oil was finding it's way back into the sump and mixing with the old oil that was lying there. The engine was run until there was no fluid going into the bucket. Next, I drained the sump and got a further 1 litre which makes a total of 4.5 litres that came out of the box in total...much less than I expected as the method is supposed to get most of the fluid out of the Torque convertor and gearbox interior. The capacity of the gearbox is given as 9.5 Litres from dry.
As I bought 10 litres of ATF AG55, i think there may be the possibility that I may need more if I flush through until I get clean fluid coming through so I have ordered a further 10 Litres.
Started to remove the screws securing the gearbox sump (Torx T40 heads). Used a TX40 socket on a normal ratchet and they came undone easily and was able to remove them with my fingers after the initial "Cracking". The one's along the sides are easily accessible but the front and rear are fiddly due to the restricted clearance-the Torx socket+ratchet would not fit in the gap. Luckily i have a set of "L" shaped Torx keys and it's manageable.
Decided not to remove the Crossmember or the rear gearbox mount.
Rain then stopped play, so it's back to it, hopefully tomorrow.
Tip for refitting the new sump pan and the engine under tray.......for the sump, cut a couple of pieces of M6 threaded bar about 2" long (Or cut the head off M6 Setpins) and get a couple of M6 nuts. Screw them into the tapped holes in the box about 4-5 turns around the centre of the sump or in diagonally opposite corners. Offer the sump up using them as guide pins and fit the nuts to just hold it in position to enable the proper bolts to be inserted then remove the studs.
I always use this method for fitting the steel under engine tray which uses M10 bolts to secure it. Makes life easier especially if you are doing the job single handed and lying on your back.Using a trolley jack to lift the tray over the studs is better still.
;);):)
 
Irishrover said:
Update
All the materials arrived for the service. Modified Sump pan & filter kit for the transmission, diff., transfer box and engine oil plus filters and front caliper service kit (Pistons, seals etc.). Overhauled the rear calipers when I did the rear suspension a few months ago and it made a big difference to the braking.
Now back to the original topic....
Had a read of the link relating to the transmission drain posted on the Disco 3 forum and today decided to make a start. Disconnected the top hose to the transmission cooler, extended it with a length of 10mm bore clear plastic hose into a bucket. The other half started the engine and I was astounded by the colour of the fluid which was being pumped out-it was jet black :eek: !! Measured the quantity and there was 3.5 litres, not counting the 2 litres of clean fluid that I fed into the box via the stub pipe on the cooler. The colour improved slightly and I assume that the new oil was finding it's way back into the sump and mixing with the old oil that was lying there. The engine was run until there was no fluid going into the bucket. Next, I drained the sump and got a further 1 litre which makes a total of 4.5 litres that came out of the box in total...much less than I expected as the method is supposed to get most of the fluid out of the Torque convertor and gearbox interior. The capacity of the gearbox is given as 9.5 Litres from dry.
As I bought 10 litres of ATF AG55, i think there may be the possibility that I may need more if I flush through until I get clean fluid coming through so I have ordered a further 10 Litres.
Started to remove the screws securing the gearbox sump (Torx T40 heads). Used a TX40 socket on a normal ratchet and they came undone easily and was able to remove them with my fingers after the initial "Cracking". The one's along the sides are easily accessible but the front and rear are fiddly due to the restricted clearance-the Torx socket+ratchet would not fit in the gap. Luckily i have a set of "L" shaped Torx keys and it's manageable.
Decided not to remove the Crossmember or the rear gearbox mount.
Rain then stopped play, so it's back to it, hopefully tomorrow.
Tip for refitting the new sump pan and the engine under tray.......for the sump, cut a couple of pieces of M6 threaded bar about 2" long (Or cut the head off M6 Setpins) and get a couple of M6 nuts. Screw them into the tapped holes in the box about 4-5 turns around the centre of the sump or in diagonally opposite corners. Offer the sump up using them as guide pins and fit the nuts to just hold it in position to enable the proper bolts to be inserted then remove the studs.
I always use this method for fitting the steel under engine tray which uses M10 bolts to secure it. Makes life easier especially if you are doing the job single handed and lying on your back.Using a trolley jack to lift the tray over the studs is better still.
;);):)
Click to expand...


Put on some weight, I use my gut to hold the undertay up:D

Then I got wise and cut a 3 inch hole in the tray so no need to remove it for oil changes, makes an oil change a real fast easy job.

Dont forget whilst you are under there to slather the auto linkage/pivot in grease.
 
lynall said:
Put on some weight, I use my gut to hold the undertay up:D

Then I got wise and cut a 3 inch hole in the tray so no need to remove it for oil changes, makes an oil change a real fast easy job.

Dont forget whilst you are under there to slather the auto linkage/pivot in grease.
Click to expand...
Will do.
Couldn't get under the car if I put anymore weight on !!!:D:D:D:p
 
As I have a further 10 Lts. of ATF due tomorrow, I pumped another 6 Lts. of clean oil through. Gave the engine a few more revs. and went through reverse and drive a couple of times-with foot on brake of course !!. Finally the black stuff became clear just before it stopped flowing. Drained the sump and the oil was fresh & clear. Tomorrow when the ATF comes, I'll feed 5 Lts. into the box through the cooler spigot and if needs be top up at the filler hole on the box.
The old sump/filter was easy to remove, as was the plastic bush for the solenoid connector which I replaced. The holes for the new sump pan need to have a M6 tap run through them according to the instructions and the holes at the front & rear edges which are above cross members are a pain to access so finished up removing the rear gearbox mount bolt and jacking the box by about 1", Gave enough room height wise but a couple of the holes restrict using a tap wrench as it fouls on brackets & pipes. Had to revert to a 5.5mm mini open ended spanner on the square of the tap to do the job.
The reason the holes need a tap run through them is that the metal sump is thinner than the original plastic one. Cap head socket screws are supplied with the kit and the holes in the box are not tapped deep enough to suit.
Anyway, new sump & filter is fitted.....and yes Lynall, I have given the selector linkage a good coating of grease ;):cool:
 
Irishrover said:
As I have a further 10 Lts. of ATF due tomorrow, I pumped another 6 Lts. of clean oil through. Gave the engine a few more revs. and went through reverse and drive a couple of times-with foot on brake of course !!. Finally the black stuff became clear just before it stopped flowing. Drained the sump and the oil was fresh & clear. Tomorrow when the ATF comes, I'll feed 5 Lts. into the box through the cooler spigot and if needs be top up at the filler hole on the box.
The old sump/filter was easy to remove, as was the plastic bush for the solenoid connector which I replaced. The holes for the new sump pan need to have a M6 tap run through them according to the instructions and the holes at the front & rear edges which are above cross members are a pain to access so finished up removing the rear gearbox mount bolt and jacking the box by about 1", Gave enough room height wise but a couple of the holes restrict using a tap wrench as it fouls on brackets & pipes. Had to revert to a 5.5mm mini open ended spanner on the square of the tap to do the job.
The reason the holes need a tap run through them is that the metal sump is thinner than the original plastic one. Cap head socket screws are supplied with the kit and the holes in the box are not tapped deep enough to suit.
Anyway, new sump & filter is fitted.....and yes Lynall, I have given the selector linkage a good coating of grease ;):cool:
Click to expand...

Hi buddy @Irishrover

Sounds like a good worthwhile job done , also imagine it’s made a difference , still got to do mine, lol

May i pick ur brains plse, what temperature did u put ur filler back in please

Many thks
 
Last edited:
Hi Guys...Finally finished the list of jobs today. Replaced the pistons and seals etc. in both front brake calipers and fitted the new L.H. exterior mirror motor to hopefully cure the mirror losing the plot, which I have lived with since buying the car. Have switched the reverse dip function back on and saved the settings to memory so wait & see !!
Took the car for a 30 mile run and the difference with the auto box is brilliant,smooth vibration free and the "pulsing" has gone also.The oil & filter change plus a double dose of Dr Tranny has worked wonders :D
To answer your query Gary.....I fed approx 4.5 lts. through the cooler initially then reconnected the hose to the cooler (From the box) and started the engine. Dived underneath and filled the box through the filler hole whilst shifting through the gears a few times until I had filled to level with the hole-the oil was cold at that point. Refitted the plug. took it for a run today after resetting the gearbox adaptive learn settings with SDD. When I got back home, the oil was hot, left the engine running in Park and removed the filler plug, put less than half a cup full of fluid in before it spilled out....I'm more than happy with that.

For those out there who are contemplating changing a mirror motor, firstly remove the glass an let it hang on the glass heating element wires. In the centre of the motor there is a hole and at the bottom is a small Torx head self tapping screw which holds the motor to the metal baseplate-remove the screw and the motor comes free. Disconnect the wiring connector and fit the replacement.
 
Irishrover said:
Hi Guys...Finally finished the list of jobs today. Replaced the pistons and seals etc. in both front brake calipers and fitted the new L.H. exterior mirror motor to hopefully cure the mirror losing the plot, which I have lived with since buying the car. Have switched the reverse dip function back on and saved the settings to memory so wait & see !!
Took the car for a 30 mile run and the difference with the auto box is brilliant,smooth vibration free and the "pulsing" has gone also.The oil & filter change plus a double dose of Dr Tranny has worked wonders :D
To answer your query Gary.....I fed approx 4.5 lts. through the cooler initially then reconnected the hose to the cooler (From the box) and started the engine. Dived underneath and filled the box through the filler hole whilst shifting through the gears a few times until I had filled to level with the hole-the oil was cold at that point. Refitted the plug. took it for a run today after resetting the gearbox adaptive learn settings with SDD. When I got back home, the oil was hot, left the engine running in Park and removed the filler plug, put less than half a cup full of fluid in before it spilled out....I'm more than happy with that.

For those out there who are contemplating changing a mirror motor, firstly remove the glass an let it hang on the glass heating element wires. In the centre of the motor there is a hole and at the bottom is a small Torx head self tapping screw which holds the motor to the metal baseplate-remove the screw and the motor comes free. Disconnect the wiring connector and fit the replacement.
Click to expand...

Hi

Great to hear you’ve got the jobs done, always the way with the little jobs and thinking I’ll do them tomorrow, lol

Bless u and thanks again for the reply , can u remember what temperature u checked the level plug at please

Great news it’s resolved the issues, that AG55 does get good reports and encouraging for when I get round to do mine

Think I can monitor the temperature via the iid

My filler plug I don’t think has ever been out, will ensure I give it a good clean before hand, got a Dremel so can at least carefully remove the junk , also bought a new filler and drain plug

The little black specs are Dinitrol and not ATF oil

What grease did u use on ur selector plse , is ceramic grease ok, only because I have a tin of it

Thks so much and apologises asking so many questions

FF248C46-4AE8-42D3-A079-86F164FDA6C4.jpeg
FFF77326-E4A8-422C-ADFF-57A0B4BBB5EE.jpeg
 
Morning Gary....
Put a good dose of Castrol EP2 on the linkage with a brush. Could have used Silicone grease I suppose :)
I should imagine ceramic grease would be ok, any good grease is better than none !!

The temperature of the fluid was approx. 34 deg after the run when I rechecked the oil level.
Checked all the DTC's from Suspension to Transmission and all was clear.
 
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