Autobox not changing

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
An update (for anyone who's interested!)

needed to remove the gearbox bracket to get access to remove the sump so propped it up with an axle stand:
photo-87.jpg


sump off and removed oil feed pipe & filter:
photo-88.jpg


I couldn't see where the cable was located and didn't find it particularly clear in RAVE so removed the control unit - a lot of bolts!
photo-90.jpg

photo-89.jpg


The kickdown cable is damaged - using pliers it takes a lot of effort to pull the wire through it's outer cable. It can't be pushed back in place after putting foot down on throttle as the spring loaded cam isn't strong enough.
My guess is that by forcing my foot on the accelerator it damaged the cable.

So, am about to order new cable, autobox oil filter and sump rubber seal.
RAVE mentions a setting tool for the cam position, does anyone have any advice for this?

Thanks
 
Last night, between rain showers I managed to fit the new cable - it now returns when taking foot off the pedal :)
however, after refitting the auto control unit I though I'd check the pedal again before fitting the new filter, sump etc. The cable is still returning but the accelerator pedal sticks on the way down about 2/3rds the way as if the throttle cam is rubbing against something on the control unit???
 
Last night, between rain showers I managed to fit the new cable - it now returns when taking foot off the pedal :)
however, after refitting the auto control unit I though I'd check the pedal again before fitting the new filter, sump etc. The cable is still returning but the accelerator pedal sticks on the way down about 2/3rds the way as if the throttle cam is rubbing against something on the control unit???

Hi Graham, from memory the throttle should feel 'normal to about 2/3rds or 3/4s of the pedal travel, it's the last bit that is stiffer which actuates the kick-down cable.
 
Hi Graham, from memory the throttle should feel 'normal to about 2/3rds or 3/4s of the pedal travel, it's the last bit that is stiffer which actuates the kick-down cable.

Hello mate, thanks. The pedal actually stops under medium force at roughly 2/3rds travel, pushing harder allows it to move closer to the floor. It doesn't feel like a step increase in resistance as once it gets over that barrier of resistance it moves easily again. Not sure if that reads sense but it makes sense in my head!
The plan is to remove the control unit again (a lot easier now I know only 13bolts are needed to pull the unit off, not all of them!) and try to refit.
There are 2 moving parts/pistons which fit under the control unit, one connects to thd gear selector but I suspect the other (not sure what it is - throttle sensor??) may be catching on the cam when pedal is pressed..
 
Hi Graham,
Just tried the accelerator pedal on mine and it travels about 4"at which point seems to click then travels a further inch or so feeling the same as before the click, it is the same model and year as yours so don't know if it's any help to you. Hope you get it sorted though.
Regards
Darren
 
Hi Graham,
Just tried the accelerator pedal on mine and it travels about 4"at which point seems to click then travels a further inch or so feeling the same as before the click, it is the same model and year as yours so don't know if it's any help to you. Hope you get it sorted though.
Regards
Darren

Thanks for making the effort to check yours much appreciated :D
could prove to be very useful, I know it's all rather subjective but would you say that it's a hard 'click' in the pedal or does it still move smoothly?
 
It probably needs twice as much pressure to get it passed the click, but it does feel a smooth action. Even by using my hand to push it down i can't feel any roughness to it.
 
Hi
With my auto you have to press the pedal quite hard at about a couple of inches from end of travel and it then clicks over.
The thing to remember with the kick down cable is that it is really incorrectly named. It not only handles kick down but also it is how the box senses throttle position. So your problem is caused by the cable because the box thinks that the throttle hasn't been pressed and therefore isn't changing up. The adjustment is critical, the way to do it without the proper equipment is by trial and error, noting the change up speeds and adjusting till it comes near the speeds listed in the manual.
 
Balls!!! Got the control unit and sump back on, took a few attempts refitting to get the gap correct in order for the cam to not stick under heavy accelerator travel. Replaced oil filter and seals then took it for a spin.
Gear changes are now a LOT smoother, no jumping between gears and they seemed to change up at lower revs (2.5k as opposed to ~3). Then half a mile down the road and there was a distinct burning smell. Put hazards on pulled over and all looked okay, tried a 3point turn and no reverse!!
Have managed to park it round the side of the house, let it cool down and rechecked oil level. Was hard to read so I dropped a litre out of the box which took it down below minimum on dipstick. However - the oil stinks, very smoky burnt smell not like the new stuff I just put in.
Any ideas?? I'm thinking it's not good - really can't spend much more on this motor have changed soo much as part of it's restoration and it hasn't even done 100miles since I bought it!!!
 
Back
Top