Henry_b
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Defo a pressure issue!
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Defo a pressure issue!
so would you recommend taking the valve body out completely to check the seals then re fitting to the correct torque before i stump up the cash for the solenoids?
Henry_b
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Can't hurt.
Ile probably just order the seals any way theres no point taking the thing out and putting it back without replacing them.
dont suppose you'd have a part number or know what there called?
I don't believe there's any seals in the valve block, except for where the solenoid valves are seated. The block has a machined face which is bolted to the machined face of the main case, so little in the way of sealing is needed.
Theres actually two seals behind the valve block, a reduction band seal and a low/reverse clutch seal. one is just a rubber sealing ring while the other one is sort of top hat shaped.
At least thats what Ive found
I've never noticed the seals, but I've only removed the one valve block, I've got one in a box somewhere. I picked up as a replacement for my misbehaving automatic. Mine also has clutch slip in 4th, so I've got a replacement clutch pack and piston to change at some point too.
Henry_b
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You're correct
Id be interested to have a read if you gonna be doing a write up on the job.
I may end up having to do somethin like this myself at some point.
now to get them ordered!You're correct
Hippo
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The FL1 jatco oil level is checked from cold. Switch it on and leave on tick over to warm up. When auto oil temp is between 35 and 45 degrees C, run it through all gear lever positions, pausing in each for 2 seconds. Then leave the engine running on tick over. The level plug is underneath the auto. Put more oil. When its at the correct level oil will flow out the level hole. All of this should be done with it on level ground. Does the oil smell burnt or look brown/black?
All of yer resistance readings are out. This normally happens when the meter battery is a bit flat. It might be the meters not accurate. The resistance range is posted on ere loads of times by me. Its also in the text below the video on YouTube.
I agree there's some valve block seals. We don't get major problems with block trouble but it does happen occasionally. Slamming gears is normally low oil or solenoids or barrel connectors coming apart. Oil level check and resistance check is what main dealers do first. Also code check but theres not many code option available for faults so yer don't always get one.
resistance video = https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTmdkDuKZ6A
As stated above all the resistance values were checked when hot an cold, oil was changed a couple of weeks ago and its seemed to help gear changes but not the slipping issue, which is why i checked all resistances these were all with in the limits posted below the youtube video so checked the oil level. The oil level was checked when the car was about 80 degrees which i know is a bit high but the level was ok.
This is why i needed some advice as to what direction to look next as i dont really want to change the solenoids without being sure one of them is faulty, ive ordered the seals behind the valve block cause for the sake of £20 i just think its daft not too while the valve block is out but i need to know what to look for whilst i check them on the bench? Is one of them gonna be obviously faulty or broke?? The fact that the car only misbehaves when its hot and i accelerate hard makes me thing its not gonna be somethin i can clearly see.
Any advice would be great tho.
Id usually swerve any other autobox but this is my own car
Hippo
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I'm confused. The instruction is to check the oil level at the correct temp. You chose not to do this. The resistance values won't change much with temperature. The temp sensor one will, as you would eggspect. But your temp sensor is still reading wrong even for 80 degrees C. Gear change is dependent on a number of factors. One being the measurements taken of the sensors in the auto. Also you can get problems with solenoids switching if they're the wrong resistance. The figures posted above are out of spec. How did you get the figures above?
Its not really that complicated! The oil level was checked originally when I first changed it obviously!!! I changed the oil and checked the level, it was checked again a couple of days ago whilst I was checking the resistance of all the solenoids. The resistance values above are the ones taken when the car was hot, as that was what was asked for, the values I have from cold are all within spec. The reason I took them hot is Incase somethin was way out as the car only misbehaves when it’s hot.
Hippo
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You have checked the oil level at twice the temperature it should be checked at, according to lr and jatco. They must have picked that temp range for a reason. It needs confirmed at the correct temp. Low oil will fuk it up permanently. The hot values are wrong. I have also tested when hot on many gearboxes on the side of the road when looking for faults and never found values which are way outside spec as yours are when hot. I appreciate its difficult to do because of engine bay heat. That to me is a concern I would look at again. If you have problems with pressure you can measure pressure via the connections by the road wheel at the front of the side plate.
Hippo
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My concern was you may have knocked the level out after, when checking when too hot. I'm fussy on peeps checking the level as we have had too many who have run them low on oil with a sad ending. It doesn't need to be thimble perfect but an easy one some have missed.
There's no guide to hot resistance values. Resistance will change slightly with temp as yer measuring a metal loop of wire and the sensor may also change a bit. If we take pins 1-2 as an eggsample the max is 627 ohms. It shouldn't increase by 50 ohms due to heat. Not on the hot ones i've measured and theres no logical reasoning as to why it would be so high when hot. If yer look at yer hot values they all seem to be high by roughly the same factor.
There is the temp sensor which as the name suggests, provides a varying resistance dependent on its temp. For 80 degrees C it would be approx 330 ohms and falling as temp increases to 90. Your 454 value may be out because the oil temp was nearer 70 degrees C. But it seems to be out by the same factor as the others roughly. Which makes me suspicious of the readings being correct.
I have seen some multimeters give differing readings depending if you measure red black or black red on the pins. You would have to see it to believe it. As if the common to earth is having an effect on the reading.
Ok so would you have any advice and which direction to go next, seals have arrived so there obviously gonna be changed and im gonna be checking the bolts for torque when it goes bavk together but while the valve block is out and cold is there any thing i coulc be checking, how do i chcke it and what should i be checking for?
cheers
paul99
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