Freelander 1 Auto Gearbox Removal

Not done this before and - see my Rebuild Thread - need to put a manual TD4 engine into my Auto.

Rave shows removing bolts holding torque converter to plate before removing gearbox and then applying a strap to hold the torque converter in place whilst working. I assume that this holds the torque converter against the seal and so I don't have to drain fluid?? If anyone has done this and can confirm where the torque conv holding bolts are (need to mark before removing?) and also if I can leave the fluid in the auto I would appreciate it. I then assume I can just change the flywheel from the manual for the one on my defunct auto TD4 ? Any other differences? I know about teh EGR cooler but as I have a bypass that is o.k. Also the injectors are a different code, but not too worried about that from feedback on this site.

Many thanks.........

I'd actually leave the box in the vehicle. It's a heavy lump to move about unnecessarily. Just support it from below, or strap it from above and just remove the engine. You need to remove the IRD from the box and balance it out the way, by sitting it on the subframe. You access the flex plate securing bolts from the back of the engine. There are 4 bolts, but be sure to mark the flex plate in relation to the TC, so they can be refitted in the correct location when the new engine goes in. Rotate the engine 90° to get to the next bolt and so on. Once all the flex plate bolts are removed, the engine is safe to split from the box, without the TC coming out the box too. Lift the engine out and away without hitting the TC as best you can. Once the engine is out the way, strap the TC in place temporarily while preparing the new engine for installation. Remove the strap just before you mate the new engine with the box, making sure you line the marking previously made on the TC and flex plate.

Can't comment on taking the engine out as I've never done that.
Only thing That springs to make mind is the manual engine is slightly down on power compared to the auto, hence the different injectors. So a synergy box or similar may be required if you find the replacement engine is a bit reluctant to go up the gears.
Have fun
Mike

Here's a few pictures I took when doing an engine change on my V6. The M47 is much easier to lift out and in, as it can come out straight, not angled like the V6.

This should give you an idea of the work involved.

Thanks that helps loads. I was worried with gearbox in there might not be enough space on pulley end of engine to clear TC. Also, LR say to replace flywheel to crank bolts, obvs I will be taking it off to fit drive plate is this necessary or overkill? Got my crane today and TD4 manual ready to leave its home of 15 yrs!

andyfreelandy said:

I was worried with gearbox in there might not be enough space on pulley end of engine to clear TC. Also,

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There's loads of room, as the box is almost flat across the bell and TC, as can be seen in the picture of the empty engine bay. So as long as there an inch of space on the pulley end, then the engine will come out.

andyfreelandy said:

LR say to replace flywheel to crank bolts, obvs I will be taking it off to fit drive plate is this necessary or overkill?

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I did when I replaced the bolts when I replaced my V6 engine. I believe they are patch bolts, so you could just add thread locking fluid before installation of the old bolts. You have to ask the question, how many people replace the bolts when a DMF is replaced?

I'm of no help whatsoever here but man do I wish I got an auto in the first place.