Freelander 1 Auto box stuck in 1st for a few hundred yards.

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Indeed!!

If they actually connect to the F1 as I think you said, which one would you buy? I'll get one and have a play.

Good luck with the F1 and the ptc problem. The current it draws when working is very high, mine dips the lights when it comes on and drops the battery volts even when driving. Thanks...
 
I can confirm the delphi clones (wow and autocom, same) can read stuff, live data, can access: engine, brakes, srs, multimedia and instrument cluster.
Worked on a 2001 kv6 gearbox as well. Yes, around 30 quid.
I have it in my trunk for my 03 td4.Worked even better for my deceased 1.8 K series.
Works on most cars these days, also has eOBD where it detects stuff if not exactly on the list.
 
wow is very slow, and has the EXACT same features.
PM me and I will send you autocom and instructions. They use the same bluetooth usb/interface anyway.
 
Hoping it will read the TD4 autobox too. PRO is kindly sending autocom software to try too. Just need a spare day to think what I'm doing!!
 
andyfreelandy said:
Hoping it will read the TD4 autobox too. PRO is kindly sending autocom software to try too. Just need a spare day to think what I'm doing!!
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Well Andy. I've read the gearbox TCM, with the unit you kindly sent.

It giving these codes.
20191209_205301.jpg

I also read the Ipack, which gave me several more codes, mostly to do with missing CAN messages. Incidentally the unit doesn't read the ABS ECU, which my I930 does.

So it looks like I have a potential wiring issue to the gearbox, which is what I suspected.

I've cleared the codes, but now I need to see what returns, as some of those codes will be historic.

Thanks for letting me borrow the unit.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Some good clues, as you say, sort out the relevant ones. Stick with it, it may be 'obvious' when you find it!!!
Click to expand...

I do have another gearbox harness, which I can fit. However it's a PITA to get out, so I might cut the insulation off and see what I can find.

The Ipack CAN issue is puzzling, as I know the Ipack is the junction between all items on the CAN.

Still first things first.
 
rob_bell said:
Good to hear you've been able to make some progress with this Nodge - any recurrence of fault codes?
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Unfortunately the fault is random, so hasn't re-occurred since clearing them down.

I've decided to buy my own reader, now I know it works with my FL1.

I can then return Andy's to him.

In the new year, I'm going to delve into the wiring harness, maybe even replace it.

Fingers crossed it'll be sorted by the time you come to visit.
 
Just read through this again..

On old ZF boxes, the govener valve sticking can cause it to stick in low gears..

maybe the same issue for the Jatco..

never had one apart, myself so feel free to correct meh!! ;)
 
Henry_b said:
On old ZF boxes, the govener valve sticking can cause it to stick in low gears..
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input.
This box didn't (it hasn't re-occurred since clearing the codes) isn't sticking in 1st, it's actual selecting 1st when it should select 4th. To select 4th, a combination of 2 solenoids needs activating (Iforget which), but if the one for 4th isn't powered, the box will select 1st, which it does. The code showed a short to live or ground on the 2/4 change solenoid, so I'm thinking there's an intermittent fault on the solenoid harness. I have a replacement harness, which I'll fit when the weather improves.
 
Ok so today another problem with my auto box manifested itself. This time it's an easy to identify issue (2/4 Duty solenoid). The box started slamming into 2nd and 4th. I knew this immediately the first time it slammed into 2nd gear this morning. However I know when the 2/4 duty solenoid fails, the box will slam into 2nd and 4th. However while 2nd is slamming in, 4th is slipping in gently over a couple of seconds ,after which time the F4 is displayed on the dash, and stays in 4th. So I think I may have found my initial problem too. If 4th isn't slamming in, it suggests to me that the clutches are weak, and allow the box to flare randomly on an up change to 4th. So it looks like I'll be replacing the box, or at least changing the clutch pack, which I think can be done with the box in the car.
This issue doesn't explain the "2/4 change solenoid short to live or ground" code I'd been getting, but does explain the "road speed out of range" code I've seen a couple of times.

So now this leaves me with a dilemma. Do I change the 2/4 brake duty solenoid and keep the box going for as long as possible. Or do I strip it down to replace the clutch pack and solenoid. Or do I find a second hand replacement and fit that. I definitely won't be spending over £1K on a reconditioned gearbox, as the vehicle simply isn't worth it.
Decisions, decisions, decisions. :(
 
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Alibro said:
Have you tried calling local scrappers to see if an auto box is available?
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Yes Ali, there's none available at the moment. I am exploring another avenue on the FB selling site. There was a chap with an MOT failure FL1 auto, who wanted £50 for the box. The only thing is, he wanted me to remove it, and it was 30 miles away. Now I'm not keen on removing gearboxes, especially on freelanders, and especially automatic gearboxes. They're heavy and awkward and just not fun to play with. The vehicle was also on soft ground, outside and the weather has been crap, so at the time I decided it wasn't for me. However I might regret that decision, but time will tell. I'd definitely rather spend £50 on an unknown box, than the more normal £350 they go for on Ebay.

I'm thinking I might try to find just the parts to fix mine, maybe just the clutch pack and 2/4 duty solenoid. For the time being, I'm back in the wife's E46 BMW cabriolet.
 
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