Freelander 2 (LR2) Auto box judder/ hesitation

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LUKBENPHI

Well-Known Member
Posts
2,150
Location
Peak District
Afternoon all, a work colleague has a '09 plate FL2 TD4 auto with 200k on the clock which they use for towing the daughters 'oss box

shes asked me to have a look and wanted to run what I've found before giving her advice of further steps

Symptoms are that it when put under load it will judder hesitate or before changing down a gear eg ready to overtake something, in the cabin this sounds like a rumbling type resonance which can cause it to shoot forward as it drops into gear, doesn't seem to do it at higher speeds and both husband and wife notice it, the husband more so as he drives it like a car apparently where as my work colleague drives it like a 4x4

a couple of times they have gone to go round something ans the box has dithered and they have missed their opportunity to overtake and putting it in sport mode lessens all the symptoms

It has been on a local indy's diagnostic machine and nothing has shown up gearbox wise

bit of a clunky feeling when moving out of park to select any gear, definitely hesitates and makes the resonating noise when selecting its next gear e.g: turning into a junction and having to go up hill immediately

i didn't experience the major hesitation but there is enough of a hesitation to make me think it wants looking at.

my initial advice has been to see if the box is on the most up to date software then look at a box and filter change to see if it improves things or not ( no record of box oil/filter being changed or flushed that they are aware of)

any further advise welcome
Cheers

Phil
 
Check the gearbox oil..

better still change the oil and filter, check the sump for debris, you will find some ;)

Does it do it in "manual" ?
 
apparently they don't use manual mode just sport and auto so unable to comment but a weekend jaunt towing the oss box had it doing the juddering in sport also so they knocked it back into normal auto
 
Update on this one, they had the car plugged into an auto diagnostic tool and it came up with 57 fault codes...

cleared them all down and it brought back 17 other codes after a short drive after a short drive.

one of the codes was crank sensor ( they had ££££'s of issues with a Honda with same problem ) so they have decided to get rid of it so there may be a cheap free lander appearing on the market soon with HSE spec, , medium blue in colour cream leather interior with some paint flake on the roof and 200k on the clocks
 
Update on this one, they had the car plugged into an auto diagnostic tool and it came up with 57 fault codes...

cleared them all down and it brought back 17 other codes after a short drive after a short drive.

one of the codes was crank sensor ( they had ££££'s of issues with a Honda with same problem ) so they have decided to get rid of it so there may be a cheap free lander appearing on the market soon with HSE spec, , medium blue in colour cream leather interior with some paint flake on the roof and 200k on the clocks
With 200k on the clock its going to be "cheap". With 200k on the clock and known faults... how much is it worth scrap?

Got to be worth a fair bit to a breaker though as undoubtedly the engine alone will be worth a lot... what with it "coming from a low mileage vehicle" anorl :rolleyes:
 
With 200k on the clock its going to be "cheap". With 200k on the clock and known faults... how much is it worth scrap?

Got to be worth a fair bit to a breaker though as undoubtedly the engine alone will be worth a lot... what with it "coming from a low mileage vehicle" anorl :rolleyes:

Working FL2 with 200k is worth around £2000, depending on general condition.

A faulty one is probably worth around half that amount. ;)

If broken for parts, then it's worth much more than it's weighing in value.
 
Why don't they change the crank sensor and see how it goes? Or take a look at it to see if something is physically wrong with it.
 
Why don't they change the crank sensor and see how it goes? Or take a look at it to see if something is physically wrong with it.

I was thinking that. :confused:

The crank sensor on a FL2 take 5 minutes to change, and costs about £30 for an OE part.
 
Working FL2 with 200k is worth around £2000,
thats al theypaid in the first place


Why don't they change the crank sensor and see how it goes? Or take a look at it to see if something is physically wrong with it.

I was thinking that. :confused:

The crank sensor on a FL2 take 5 minutes to change, and costs about £30 for an OE part.

i mentioned that to them but bad experiences when crank sensor failed on their old Honda, they spent £000 chasing that & other faults round the car to the point it wouldn't start with easy start, so they decided to cut their losses with it and seems going same with this one.

it runs OK when i had a look at it so dont know if other things have happen since that as I've been on me hols

got told today its a done deal and they have put their deposit down on a 3 year old Kuga awd
 
got told today its a done deal and they have put their deposit down on a 3 year old Kuga awd

Having owned an AWD Kuga, a FL1 and an FL2, the Kuga is a pretty poor by comparison, although it's a good road vehicle, anything other than damp tarmac will have it stuck. :eek:
Its also not as big or practical as the FL2.
 
As you're a mate, it'd be rude not to do them a favour and take the Freelander off their hands for couple of £100 then :rolleyes: :D

Sadly its part of he part ex deal i think else i may have done

Having owned an AWD Kuga, a FL1 and an FL2, the Kuga is a pretty poor by comparison, although it's a good road vehicle, anything other than damp tarmac will have it stuck. :eek:
Its also not as big or practical as the FL2.

nah want a FL2 i think now anyway just need to shift he D3 after MOT TIme
 
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