Disco 3 (LR3) ATF fluids

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gstuart

gstuart

D3 Grandad
Full Member
Posts
30,763
Location
Kent
hi guys

as there are now more alternative ATF oil on the market was wondering what u guys have been using please

considering the original oil was to use the ZF oil at an eye watering £20 per litre

this one by the looks of it seems quite popular

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4L-BMW-Jaguar-Land-Rover-ZF-AUDI-Automatic-Transmission-Oil-AG-55-LIFEGUARD-6/302089405357?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=2&asc=20140122125356&meid=0eb83627cce044a4a89de8d265b1aab8&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=6&sd=112532289462&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

thks as always
 
I've never had an interest in ATF other than Dexron lll is used with my D1 also as the gearbox fluid replacement is a bit involved so I let my my local indi garage do it, also I've never had to top up the gearbox, nether the power steering which still has the stuff fitted at the factory.

Anyway Comma's ATF seems to tick all the boxes.
 
cheers guys for the replies and really helpful

wondering if it does any harm to just top up the box with an improved substitute oil, as i’m unaware if the oil has ever been changed it’s abit of the unknown

was thinking of topping it up if req for now , then when the weather improves to get 10 x litres and do a double flush

then will at least know what oil is in there, not sure if i will do the sump pan filter conversion , after seeing when they’ve cut the filters open they have been clean

many thks once again, is really appreciated , also building up more knowledge as more D3 owners are becoming members of this forum

also through that great jag link of references kindly provided by @funrover

noted

the ZF 6HP26 box is built around the Shell 1375.4 spec precisely. Dexron III is fine for ZF 5-speed boxes as we found before, but NOT for 6-speed boxes

atf oil should conform to

Mobil spec LT71141 , Shell M1375.4
 
Last edited:
discool said:
I've never had an interest in ATF other than Dexron lll is used with my D1 also as the gearbox fluid replacement is a bit involved so I let my my local indi garage do it, also I've never had to top up the gearbox, nether the power steering which still has the stuff fitted at the factory.

Anyway Comma's ATF seems to tick all the boxes.
Click to expand...

just seen that ref the dexron lll , didn’t realise it shouldn’t be used in the 6 x speed box, good to learn beforehand :D

must admit i always prefer to do the atf oil changes in auto boxes myself, use an infra red thermometer and can also plug in my diagnostics to get temp readings

before my local garage done my old jatco gearbox and they under filled it , so from then on done them myself
 
discool said:
If you need to top up with ATF then you have a leak some where. :(
Click to expand...

agreed, not sure if the level is low until i get under there and check, lol

just don’t fancy checking at the moment with it being so cold, hopefully a good day will come along , should only take 20 mins tops to get it up to temp and check
 
Last edited:
gstuart said:
hi guys

as there are now more alternative ATF oil on the market was wondering what u guys have been using please

considering the original oil was to use the ZF oil at an eye watering £20 per litre

this one by the looks of it seems quite popular

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4L-BMW-Jaguar-Land-Rover-ZF-AUDI-Automatic-Transmission-Oil-AG-55-LIFEGUARD-6/302089405357?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=2&asc=20140122125356&meid=0eb83627cce044a4a89de8d265b1aab8&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=6&sd=112532289462&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

thks as always
Click to expand...
If that trans fluid is eye watering to you. What would a transmission cost to replace. Use the good stuff. oils is not something to get cheap about.
 
gstuart said:
cheers guys for the replies and really helpful

wondering if it does any harm to just top up the box with an improved substitute oil, as i’m unaware if the oil has ever been changed it’s abit of the unknown

was thinking of topping it up if req for now , then when the weather improves to get 10 x litres and do a double flush

then will at least know what oil is in there, not sure if i will do the sump pan filter conversion , after seeing when they’ve cut the filters open they have been clean

many thks once again, is really appreciated , also building up more knowledge as more D3 owners are becoming members of this forum

also through that great jag link of references kindly provided by @funrover

noted

the ZF 6HP26 box is built around the Shell 1375.4 spec precisely. Dexron III is fine for ZF 5-speed boxes as we found before, but NOT for 6-speed boxes

atf oil should conform to

Mobil spec LT71141 , Shell M1375.4
Click to expand...
you going to drop the trans pan and clean that? just drain and refill and if it has a trans filter change that also. By doing a trans flush you stand a good chance of trashing the transmission as it get to clean inside. Spend some time searching the problems what a trans flush causes.
 
Thor1950 said:
If that trans fluid is eye watering to you. What would a transmission cost to replace. Use the good stuff. oils is not something to get cheap about.
Click to expand...

understand what ur saying but since the zf oil was first launched there are other oils that are equivalent if not better to the zf oil, wouldn’t buy an oil that isn’t of good quality

always bought good quality oils and filters, the atf fluid i’m looking at is around £10 per litre which i dont mind , but do feel £20 per litre for the zf oil is abit too much

the AG 55 oil meets all the specifications of the ZF oil, as does the Ravenol
 
Last edited:
Thor1950 said:
you going to drop the trans pan and clean that? just drain and refill and if it has a trans filter change that also. By doing a trans flush you stand a good chance of trashing the transmission as it get to clean inside. Spend some time searching the problems what a trans flush causes.
Click to expand...

u can’t just drop the pan, without removing the cross member and jacking the engine up, unless u do the pan filter conversion

filter is nearly as large as the pan and sits inside it

i’m not going to do a power flush , my personally preference is to just drain the oil, refill it, do a few hundred miles then change it again, i know i won’t get the oil out of the torque converter doing it like that
 
I would just drain and refill tbf.

You need a laser thermometer and a good quality torx set, if its anything like my jag the original bolts will be T27 torx if its been serviced previously it will have the uprated t40s

becareful when undoing the Tox bolts because they strip the heads very easily.

One the farse has been done the sump bolts should be torque'd upto 10nm.

I know this video is aimed at BMW's but its the same procedure for any car fitted with the 6HP box

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...=ZRrgmfM8VlQ&usg=AOvVaw1h7F38dQAHJ7CAZU9-frf0
 
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funrover said:
I would just drain and refill tbf.

You need a laser thermometer and a good quality torx set, if its anything like my jag the original bolts will be T27 torx if its been serviced previously it will have the uprated t40s

becareful when undoing the Tox bolts because they strip the heads very easily.

One the farse has been done the sump bolts should be torque'd upto 10nm.
Click to expand...

hi

that’s what i’m planing , of just draining and refilling , won’t be taking the sump pan off , have got a laser thermometer and a diagnostic reader i can plug in, but think it will be easier to just use the laser thermometer

see i’ve got to get it between 30-35c then take a final level reading at 40c , but like when i done my jatco autobox with it being temperature dependant on the level

know some prefer getting the gearboxes powerflushed
 
gstuart said:
hi

that’s what i’m planing , of just draining and refilling , won’t be taking the sump pan off , have got a laser thermometer and a diagnostic reader i can plug in, but think it will be easier to just use the laser thermometer

see i’ve got to get it between 30-35c then take a final level reading at 40c , but like when i done my jatco autobox with it being temperature dependant on the level

know some prefer getting the gearboxes powerflushed
Click to expand...


It is a pain in the pringle on a low sporty saloon but on a disco it should be quite easy lol!

If the old fluid smells and looks past it then i would recommend a flush.
if it looks decent but dirty then just a fluid drain and refill.

Mileage is also a important to the 6HP!

ZF recommend a refresh of the fluid every 60k.
 
funrover said:
It is a pain in the pringle on a low sporty saloon but on a disco it should be quite easy lol!

If the old fluid smells and looks past it then i would recommend a flush.
if it looks decent but dirty then just a fluid drain and refill.

Mileage is also a important to the 6HP!

ZF recommend a refresh of the fluid every 60k.
Click to expand...

i bet it is in trying to do the oil on a bmw , can at least put my suspension into off road height, lol

has got a full service history but wonder if any previous garages have taken the sealed for life literally

so that why i wish to ensure myself that it’s at least done, mines currently in 99,000 miles

seen different ways of it being done , disconnect the hose at the intercooler and into a container , starting the engine and it pumps the oil out, not all but a good few litres

for me i will just drain it as at least then i won’t have the risk of oil spraying everywhere , then put a tube into the gearbox and run it up into the engine bay , attach a funnel to the tube and just let gravity refill it , can just take my time and have a cuppa while i wait for it to fill , then check level when at the correct temperature

for now i just wish to check the level , i can then see if it’s ok or needs a top up . think the oil in the link is reasonable and should be plenty

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MANNOL-A...ic-Transmission-Oil-LIFEGUARD-6-/302254726093
 
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