Anyone near Telford fancy helping with restoring a 110 I have just purchased?

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Rich6362

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Hi Guys
Any of you experienced chaps fancy assisting me with changing the bulkhead on my new to me 1986 110? Just thought If anyone was interested. I am based between Telford and Wolverhampton and would welcome an experienced helping hand on the project . Beer / tea of course provided :)
 
You would be better posting some pics...I took on a get it running and stopping S2 project that turned into a nut and bolt resto due to rot found here in Portugal and parts supply has to come from UK it's now colour change and engine rebuild...
IMG_20210112_141955.jpg
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RustyDefender said:
That's how it starts.. did you do the rear floor yourself?
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Yes the seat boxes and floor were buckled beyond repair so welded up a 3mm frame to bolt down then got 1mm sheet folded and cut to fit then welded on to frame...the upper part of bulkhead was rotten and repaired with an aluminium door tread so got local metal shop to fold replacment panels to weld in...A LOT of work...
 
Awesome job u done there @Shippers , done something similar on my series 2A and series 3 safari

never forget it took me at least 5-6 times longer than I could have ever imagined , lol

but at the end of the day we’ll worth it from a job satisfaction and pride prospective

plus wow these bulkheads are so dam heavy
 
Rich6362 said:
Hi Guys
Any of you experienced chaps fancy assisting me with changing the bulkhead on my new to me 1986 110? Just thought If anyone was interested. I am based between Telford and Wolverhampton and would welcome an experienced helping hand on the project . Beer / tea of course provided :)
Click to expand...
i'm not really that experienced on that particular side but am quite practical. i'm not too far from you so happy to meet up, give advice etc. with a fellow LR enthusiast, feel free to message me
 
Shippers said:
View attachment 300203View attachment 300204View attachment 300205View attachment 300206View attachment 300206A lot of work not finished yet...
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I completely agree with you about the OP posting some pictures and just having a go and getting started but you are filling him with false hope with your pictures. They all show clear skys and working outside, you are forgetting the default for the UK is wet and windy so outside working is miserable or limited to the short windows between rain storms!

I am not a million miles away if you get really stuck but with a little one on the way in a couple of months my time is limited. I would not underestimate the amount of help you can get on the forum here with lots of pictures and questions/discussions on what you are stuck with. Other than physically lifting the old on off and the new one on there is nothing that cannot be done single handed in a bulkhead change. I have just rebuilt my 110 and other than the lifting part did it all myself on my own. The rebuild thread is here LINK (it is a long thread) but there are lots of pictures as the bulkhead is removed and built back up so some of it may be useful for you.
 
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Thanks guys - some good info there . I am ordering the bulkhead from Des @ DDS metal. Has anyone got any good recommendations for treating the chassis ? I want to make it as rust proof as possible .. don’t mind spending the money .. just want to make it as easy as possible and of course last . Cheers
 
Rich6362 said:
Thanks guys - some good info there . I am ordering the bulkhead from Des @ DDS metal. Has anyone got any good recommendations for treating the chassis ? I want to make it as rust proof as possible .. don’t mind spending the money .. just want to make it as easy as possible and of course last . Cheers
Click to expand...
Best treatment for the chassis is acid dip, repair, hot dip galvanise. But I assume you are not talking about stripping it down and want to rust proof with it still fitted to the vehicle. If this is the case the first step Would be to thoroughly steam clean it. Then let it fully dry. Depending on how involved you want to be you could then prime it and the paint it. If you repaint or not the final step is the same. Cavity wax the inside followed by external wax the outside. I personally like Dinitrol for this and in my rebuild thread linked above you can see this is what I used on mine. But there are other brands. I know people on here have used lanoguard, waxoil used to be a standard but modern stuff is not as good. There are lots of different options which all do the same thing.

Just make sure it is a wax and not an underseal. Underseal acts like powder coat. Allows water underneath it, you can’t tell and it still looks perfect. And then you get a whole sheet of it come off revealing a very rusty piece of metal beneath!
 
dag019 said:
Best treatment for the chassis is acid dip, repair, hot dip galvanise. But I assume you are not talking about stripping it down and want to rust proof with it still fitted to the vehicle. If this is the case the first step Would be to thoroughly steam clean it. Then let it fully dry. Depending on how involved you want to be you could then prime it and the paint it. If you repaint or not the final step is the same. Cavity wax the inside followed by external wax the outside. I personally like Dinitrol for this and in my rebuild thread linked above you can see this is what I used on mine. But there are other brands. I know people on here have used lanoguard, waxoil used to be a standard but modern stuff is not as good. There are lots of different options which all do the same thing.

Just make sure it is a wax and not an underseal. Underseal acts like powder coat. Allows water underneath it, you can’t tell and it still looks perfect. And then you get a whole sheet of it come off revealing a very rusty piece of metal beneath!
Click to expand...
Hi dag019 many thanks for the info ! Sorry for the late reply .. the landy has had to wait.. back on it this weekend though. Cheers
 
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