Anyone know what amps does an electric seat require?

Hi all. I've dropped (thugged, disc cut and re-engineered) a set of comfy leather '93 Range Rover seats into my 200 series Disco. The rear seats were a straight swap and, after much swearing, the front ones are in as well.
Now all I need to do is wire the motors up (I've binned the original sealed switching units in favour of a couple of alloys boxes from Maplins with some DP rocker switches). I'm told that there is a live feed in the housing under the gear stick which I can't wait to go looking for . Can somebody please tell what ampage these seats take so that I don't blow the motors or burn the wiring out by using the wrong fuse/cable/connector etc........needless to say 'eletrickery' is a bit of a black art to me so I am in awe of those that understand it and will take any advice!
Cheers!
Rich

don't know about the 200 series but the seats on my TD5 disco have a 20amp fuse for the seat heaters, 40amp for the electric motors & 3amp for the lumbar support pump & solenoid.

have copied the electric circuit diagrams as well

don't know if any of this is of any use

Thanks for that! I'll assume 40 amps then!

migt be in the same boat as yer as am fitting some mint leather seats out a 92 classic into my discovery 200tdi if they dont sell.

what was the prob with the front seats by the way???

Hi, Bit long-winded this so forgive me..........
The runners on the base of the Rangie seats are set wider apart than the rails on the base plate for the Disco. Not a problem! I used 6mm chequer plate, with suitable holes drilled, to bolt the two together together: NOTE!!! The rear bolts on the Rangie rails are doubled up and held by a double captive nut......DON'T USE THIS!!! If you do then the seat will not run to its full possible adjustment. Instead, insert the allan-key headed bolts through the hole in the rails the 'wrong way around', and then use washers/nuts to secure to the plate; it works a treat!
The Rangie seats have four motors , stacked two on two, slung underneath at the front. You could probably re-locate two of them to the rear, but I compromised, removed two of the motors and cut the bracket down so the chequer plate could fit. I reckon I can live with only having forwards/backwards and recline settings. The other two motors effectively push the rear and front of the seat up and down and you can always adjust these with a cordless drill once the seats are fully installed(actually, mine are so free, that I can adjust them manually!).
NOTE: As the Rangie seat will already be sitting quite a bit higher than the old Disco seat you won't need these anyway unles you are severely vertically challenged!
I've looked at chopping down the Disco base plate, but it seems pointless as the Rangie rails sit directly on to the centre tunnel and won't physically drop any further.....someone prove me wrong PLEASE!
Note also that the Rangie seats are a bit wider than the Disco seats, so need careful setting on chequer plate.
Rightly or wrongly, I've decided to bin the original seat switches. I've had a look but they are sealed units and I reckon I'm better off selling them on ebay and buying a couple of Maplin's alloy project boxes and some recycled Disco electric window switches.
The seats are definately more comfortable, however I'm not 100 per cent happy because they do sit sit quite high, I'm 5'12" on a good day and certainly wouldn't recommend this conversion to anyone taller.
Rich