Anyone got a fairey/superwinch pto winch on their motor?

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lynall

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Ive bought one for mine and its come with a decent galvanised bumper which the winch is mounted to by 4 studs via slots in the bumper.
Now to me this isnt anywheres near man enough for the jo,b but on the rear of the winch is another 4 studs which have obviously had nuts on some time.
So what i would like to know or see is some pics of peoples winchs mounted and is the winch supported at the rear somehow?
I cant see any mention of this in the instructions.

Ta
Lynall
 
You wouldnt have or know where theres a pic would you?
Ive looked all over the web but drawn a blank.
When i dry fit it to see if shafts line up etc i may weld a piece of heavy angle from one side of the chassis to the other to support the winch.
There are some brackets that go on the nearside, one drops the steering damper down and the other is the pto shaft support bracket.






Lynall
 
Much googling later reveals that there are two flat chunks of steel to be welded to the front chassis crossmember this supports the rear of the winch.
Now officially bored of looking at pics of winchs!.
I wonder how many are running around with no support on the rear of the winch?


Lynall
 
Finally winch is fitted pain in arse lifting it on and off to check fit and weld on the brackets.
The rear of the winch has two lugs and these sit on top of the front crossmember then two steel plates 5 mm thick are welded to the xmember so winch is bolted down by 8 m10 bolts and the two high tensile bumper mount bolts so seems nice and strong.
Pics are better than my crap description.
Hope this helps someone.


Lynall
 

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Well done getting your winch up and running. A bit more involved in using one than electric model. I prefer the PTO, been using 'em on my Landrovers for 25 years or so.
 
Thanks
Just got to weld footwell, get it mot'd, wax chassis, fit new winch cable and im ready to play


Lynall
 
I came across you by accident, after typing in PTO winch, tinternet put me here. I was originally looking for someone that wants to fit a winch driven off a LT95 box and wanted the nessesary bits or what could be adapted. and thats where I'd got stuck on one of my projects. I had the identical winch to yours mounted on a Disco 200tdi about 7 years ago. Two bits of angle welded onto the front of the crossmember to support the rear of the winch, the front held by the custom fabricated bumper /bullbar assembly, that protected all the front and corners. I had to chop the floor behind the gearbox to get the Pto drive unit in.
 
In my garage i have the pto casing and the adaptor and shafts tha male the std pto fit the lt230 box
I stripped it for the bearings and drive chain for mine


Lynall
 
Second to last job completed, make and fit a new steering damper bracket to lower the damper down so when axle travels up the damper doesnt hit the driveshaft support bearing.
Instructions suggest using a flat piece of steel 3 inches long bolted through the original damper bracket hole, this seemed pretty **** to me as it would flex and sooner or later fail, so i found a piece of steel in the scrap bin, cut the old one off and welded new one on.
Pleased as looks oe.
Last job to do is to extend the nearside front bump stop rubber by one inch again to stop the axle clouting the shafting.
Now you know why people fit electric winches!



Lynall
 

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Sorry to bring up a really old thread. But for some reason I can't send a pm on my phone?
Anyway. I've just finished installing my pto winch on my tdi 90. I just have the steering damper lowering bracket to fabricate. But I can't find anywhere on how long it should be? Lynall I don't suppose you could give me the measurement you used on your bracket. From the underside of the chassis to the centre of the steering damper mounting hole?
I've mocked up a drop plate that mounts to the existing damper bracket (I've done it like this incase I ever remove the winch) this bracket lowers the steering damper by 40mm. But im unsure if this is enough?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Its a tad difficult to get to as I forgot the steering guard, best I can get at it is 95mm bottom of chassis to hole centre, its been no issues since winch fitted.
Its been used quite a few times and have to say amazing bit of kit, even works well underwater.
Tips:-
Dont forget to disengage pto before driving off as it snaps the cable clean in half with no effort!
Smile smugly as you dont need to use a snatch block for straight pulls like the cheaper elec winches.
The bumper and fairlead is amazingly strong and can be used to push anything without fear of damage.
A push to kill button on the wing top is a great safety idea and helps enormously when spooling in the last few feet of cable.
 
Thanks for your help. The bracket I made was only 65mm from chassis to hole centre. I thought it looked a bit short. I've made up another tonight at 95mm. To be fair it looks better. Thanks for your help

By a push to kill button. Do you mean an electrical kill switch to cut out the engine? Incase you have issues when spooling in?

My winch case was cracked where the fairlead mounts to it, so had that welded up, so not sure about using that to push on, but the bumper is very heavy duty.

What oil do you use in the winch worm gear casing? (where the pto shaft goes into the winch) I've put ep80/90 in it, but it weeps from the casing a bit. It never used to, maybe I should be using something thicker? Thanks again joe
 
Yes a push to kill button, non latching type so when some stupid twonk pushes it you havent got to keep getting out of the car, just cut into the injector pump stop solenoid wiring.
I mounted it in the drivers side wing top plastic panel, weirdly no end of people have asked me what its for!
I fitted the switch as I did a lot of laning on my own and thought if I get caught in the cable Im properly screwed.

I ran 85/140 in the winch and that weeped from the input seal so now its mixed with 000 grease which is nice and runny but not runny enough to leak, its a bit like smooth cv grease.
 
That might be the way forward on the lubrication side. I had thought about using gx90 / 140 to try and stop the leek. Mine is weeping from the centre on the finned case on the right hand side of the winch as you look at it. I belive it is the "bearing adjusting screw" but it won't turn, so just want to leave it alone.

The cut out is a very good idea. Have you a picture of the switch you used?
Did you winch come with a hook? Mine is missing so need to get a clevis hook for it. Have you adjusted your pto clutch for the right rope on your winch? Are you still running steel wire rope?

Thanks
 
No hook so I used a clevis type.
I wound the pto clutch up to its max as I once set it to low and could not winch myself out, thought thats not going to happen again!
Yes steel wire rope, I like syn rope, but its to easy to steal from the car, knock the winch into freespool pull the cable out undo grub screw and theres 150 quid gone, wire rope nice and oily and no one wants it!
Sorry I cant find the button on ebay, theres obviously some on there but I just cant find one!
 
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