Anybody interested in a batch of smaller more compact back boxes...?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
arrived today thanks. so who will be first to fit and video it (before & after)
cannot even think of doing until the weekend and maybe not even then
 
vilguy said:
I'll have one on your next batch matey
Click to expand...

They've said they'll honour the same price now that they have them all jigged up.

If you want one, drop me a pm and I'll send you payment details. I'll place an order with them at the end of the week, give anybody else a chance to join in
 
Trouble out on the street.......

I managed to loosen the bottom nut on the clamp.

I even managed to slide the offside top rubber off the hanger on the car.


But could I get the rest off?

Am I missing something? Is there a trick to removing the old rear box? I don't want to wreck the whole system.

I may have to take it to an exhaust place if I can't remove the old back box. I'd rather do it myself.
 
Epicuser said:
I did. It didn't shift.




Maybe I should have used a bigger hammer.........


Which bit should I be hitting?


I am right in thinking that there is only 1 nut to undo. No locknut underneath it etc.
Click to expand...

It's probly just very stuck after being fitted for many years, metal will have expanded into each other, will just need a good thwack... use a nylon/rubber mallet instead of a hammer, less likely to cause damage
 
SES88 said:
It's probly just very stuck after being fitted for many years, metal will have expanded into each other, will just need a good thwack... use a nylon/rubber mallet instead of a hammer, less likely to cause damage
Click to expand...


Any particular bit I should hit? I'm new to doing exhaust stuff.
 
Epicuser said:
Any particular bit I should hit? I'm new to doing exhaust stuff.
Click to expand...

If you've got both hangers loosened and the joiner on the slip joint apart, hit the inside of the bend which joins the box to the mid section, thats the nearest place you can hit it to shock it.

If you've a small hammer, tap around the joint first lightly, can help loosen it.

Failing that, a light spray of WD into the joint may also help.
 
SES88 said:
If you've got both hangers loosened and the joiner on the slip joint apart, hit the inside of the bend which joins the box to the mid section, thats the nearest place you can hit it to shock it.



If you've a small hammer, tap around the joint first lightly, can help loosen it.



Failing that, a light spray of WD into the joint may also help.
Click to expand...


Thanks.

Not managed to move the joiner yet. The nut is undone but it won't move at the moment.

Probably the original back box.... almost 8 years old and never been undone !!
 
bukko said:
I don't see how hitting it with a crap magazine will help :D
Click to expand...

lol Funny.

I loosen the clamp around the slip joint. Then tap the joint with a hammer to crack the rust. Then remove the rubber hangers and place a block under the centre pipe at the low point, just in front of the slip joint. This provides some support.
Now you can use the tail box as a lever to twist the slip joint. This is done by pushing down at the exit end of the box. Go easy and watch that you don't distort the centre pipe. Once the joint has started to move, you just need to move the tail box exit end up and down, while pulling the box off the joint. This twisting action is the best way to shift them.
 
got mine done today :)

removing the old one involved heat 'n a lump hammer
hammered the clip bolt out ( nut came undone no problems with wd40 )
twisting the old box was useless in my case .. belting it off with lump hammer did the job

had to widen the new pipe very slightly to get it to fit on
part got a bit flattened somehow .. probably in transit
used a small ball end hammer to round it off and get it to fit
finished it with an ss.t-clip ( 60-63mm )

pics attached ..
original now rusty box be 7 years on the vehicle

only heard it idling an a token blip of the go-pedal
( still got some work to do while the hippo be on the ramps )
sounds good :) ..
will get to hear it 'under-load' in a day or so
 

Attachments

  • oldexhaust.jpg
    oldexhaust.jpg
    75.6 KB · Views: 219
  • new1.jpg
    new1.jpg
    46.1 KB · Views: 242
  • new2.jpg
    new2.jpg
    43.2 KB · Views: 238
Last edited:
That must've been dropped at some point in transit :( other than that it looks good!

Is it a lot more noticeable the change in tone or is it just a subtle difference?
 
Is it a lot more noticeable the change in tone or is it just a subtle difference?
Click to expand...

somewhat deeper tone .. maybe marginally louder than the original ..

i doubt the difference would be much apparent via a video recording tbh
would depend on the recorder's quality ..
and playback via bog-standard comp. speakers would be useless
i.e. would need some decent bass response ..

personaly i like the sound .. idling .. volume wise it's no where near anti-social
*i don't expect it will much louder under road conditions .. will let you know*

what you don't get with the likes of a td4/m47r ..
is the initial over rich injection before the turbo kicks in
plus there's a cat in the way ..
so it should be fairly civilised on the road

i've driven a 450bhp cat. diesel with straight thru pipes ( 6 - inline engine /turbo/intercooler )
( i.e. no emission gizmos .. or maf/computer controlled injection )
and that sounded beautiful .. would 'crack 'n bark .. accompanied by a plume of black smoke
then humm when the turbo kicked in .. with the exhaust smoke turning to a grey haze
as good to listen to as a V8 petrol .. no stereo needed ..
although rekon the sound of a supercharged merlin in a spitfire aircraft be the best :))

but yeah .. the td4 with that straight thru box sounds cool :) *so far*
will probably do a 50 mile run tomorrow .. mixed .. some 70mph bits
and a couple of long straight-ish steep 'A'road hills
( dogs' bed is right above the backbox .. if she naps on the road .. as is her habit .. all's be well :)

~~~~~

only downside of todays effort was checking outh the condition of the tank-cradle
even though i painted it last year it looks to be on it's last legs
some nasty rusty splits on one of the tubes ..
goin' to have to bite the bullet and get a new one ..
 
Last edited:
wrote out a longish post about the 50 mile trip
then site said i had to re-log-in ..
after already loggin' in grrrrrrrr .. and lost my text ..
( not the first time :-/ )

anyhow to sum up re the new box
am Very happy with it :banana:

in short ..
1) ..*better low down torque / go-pedal response
* i.e under 1700 rpm .. 8th july test via known full go-pedal conditions revealed no real gain at the upper end of the rpm range

2) .. better sound .. .. volume-wise a tad more at idle and just above .. pretty much the same as the standard box above 1700 rpm ..
though different tone .. .. nice to have instant audio feedback on fuel consumption :)

3) .. and hey .. no exhaust fumes in cab with tailgate window wide open ..
( except with a tail-breeze at very low speed .. 2 same 50 mile trips now with tailgate window open all the time
( tested with all front windows and roof panels both closed and open

trip details might follow
( i guess not .. unless someone wants to know the exact 'test' conditions for the opinion on point no.1 )
 
Last edited:
I ended up paying my local fitters........

Sounds great.



Discovered that my back box was on its way out anyway, started to rust and split on top.
 
Last edited:
One of you guys will have to get a video, the one I have left here hasn't been touched, been too busy!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
L322 A Couple of Things.........
Replies
2
Views
187
Datatek
Datatek
julianf
Loads of slack in power train - diffs?
Replies
15
Views
686
julianf
julianf
torr_td4
2005 Freelander TD4 cutting out
Replies
2
Views
756
Freddie17
Freddie17
Flossie
P38A Steering wheel decals
2
Replies
28
Views
2K
Flossie
Flossie
Cobby44
FL2 SD4 Auto 13 Plate - Loss of Power/Rev Counter Inconsistency
Replies
14
Views
1K
Arctic2
Arctic2
Back
Top