Any ways to check wheel alignment without lazer kit??

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Hicap phill said:
if anything is going to bend it’s your drag link between the 2 wheels.
Did you put the c bracket on the diff to protect it?
Does this bar look straight?
Measure front of tyre from left to right
The. Rear of tyre left to right will show if towing in/out
Click to expand...
Take drag link off and have a good look at it. If its causing the wheel to be half a turn out you should see the bend easily enough
 
Anaconda said:
You need to see the engineers report in reference to chassis damage.
If no body damage, no axle tube damage, no chassis damage then its not an expensive repair, it shouldn't be a write off. Get a 2nd quote as you are entitled to take it wherever you want.
Keep it at home if that is where it is.
Click to expand...
engineer makes no ref to chassis on report, simply stated couldnt assess further without extra clearence from insurers and they immediately wrote off
 
Turboman said:
Can you post any pics?

The tracking and steering wheel off centre could be caused by several things, some of them as simple as a bent steering rod.

I would think it would take a ,massive impact to bend the chassis.
Click to expand...

I bent the track rod just by hitting a curb and it sent the wheels all over the place. But it was a cheap britpart one.

If he's fitted HD stuff (depending on how HD that actually is) then I guess something else would break first.

I get mixed up with the names of the steering components but, I think, most of the rods would cause both wheels to go out of alignment IF the steering wheel was centered.

Whilst, it seems, that, with the wheel central, only one road wheel is on the wonk. Which doesn't seem possible with steering rods? I guess it might be if multiple rods have bent to compensate, but just one going would always offset both wheels if the steering was centered, wouldn't it?
 
hawky666 said:
engineer makes no ref to chassis on report, simply stated couldnt assess further without extra clearence from insurers and they immediately wrote off
Click to expand...
Costed estimate is done before a car is written off.
The estimate is then submitted to insurance company and an engineer gets involved if needed.
Approved repairer can usually self authorise.
Repairers are known to write off a job if they don't want it.
 
julianf said:
I bent the track rod just by hitting a curb and it sent the wheels all over the place. But it was a cheap britpart one.

If he's fitted HD stuff (depending on how HD that actually is) then I guess something else would break first.

I get mixed up with the names of the steering components but, I think, most of the rods would cause both wheels to go out of alignment IF the steering wheel was centered.

Whilst, it seems, that, with the wheel central, only one road wheel is on the wonk. Which doesn't seem possible with steering rods? I guess it might be if multiple rods have bent to compensate, but just one going would always offset both wheels if the steering was centered, wouldn't it?
Click to expand...
The drag link between the front wheels is pretty easy to bend. I bent the one on my Ninety by driving into a concrete block at about 2 mph. The bloody thing was so low down I didn't see it over the bonnet.
 
Hicap phill said:
if anything is going to bend it’s your drag link between the 2 wheels.
Did you put the c bracket on the diff to protect it?
Does this bar look straight?
Measure front of tyre from left to right
The. Rear of tyre left to right will show if towing in/out
Click to expand...
 

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Anaconda said:
Costed estimate is done before a car is written off.
The estimate is then submitted to insurance company and an engineer gets involved if needed.
Approved repairer can usually self authorise.
Repairers are known to write off a job if they don't want it.
Click to expand...
thats what i feel has happened. they were scared of it tbh
 
hawky666 said:
thats what i feel has happened. they were scared of it tbh
Click to expand...
You don't have to rush to make a decision. It's your truck, you can have it repaired by whoever you want and intitled to more than one estimate.
Besides your insurance company should be instructing the other person's insurance company to pay for it. Tell them you want it repaired, it was there fault.
What is your truck valued at?
 
Look at it this way, (and again, I don't know the numbers)

Say you got a 10k payout and the buy back is 6k, 4k would be enough to swap the chassis again, depending on diy or paying.

But then would the car be 10k as a cat s?

If you got a 15k payout, then 4k would be enough to do the chassis again if need be, and then you have a 15k car for 10k. But then the cat s thing again.

I don't know your numbers nor market price for fancy 90s, but you do know the numbers, so can you just look at worst case and see if the sums make sense? Then, if it's not "worst case" you're doing well?

That would seem easier to work out than what's wrong with it (with any real certainty) right now?
 
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