Any Fluid Dynamics Experts?
- Thread starter Al2O3
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No, but where else could the oil be coming from if the air inlet pipework only goes back to the air filter?
See my next post, cant see it myself, but lets be honest something very weird is going on here!
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I can't think what I've done, or how its affecting the turbo, but I must have seriously goosed up the engine rebuild
I can't think what I've done, or how its affecting the turbo, but I must have seriously goosed up the engine rebuild
From the last thread, did you speak to any of the turbo suppliers to get their opinions?
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I've written to Garrett, but they didn't reply. Unfortunately, the recon company I bought the first turbo from I complained to because initially I thought it must have been a dodgy recon job. They supplied the second turbo. Turner Engineering supplied the third turbo (original Garrett) I bought the fourth CHRA from Fourby.
I'll send Brittanica Mike an email tomorrow. I'm sure he'll get hundreds of emails, but it's worth a shot.
First things first, when did you notice the problem? Has it always been present since you rebuilt the engine? If not, what did you change to start the issue?
Have you measured the diameters of both feed and return pipes for the oil? Thinking logically, the oil can only come from one of two places, the air going into the compressor side of the turbo, or internally from the turbo itself. If the oil is coming from internally, it could be down to excessive oil pressure or dodgy seals, the fact you are onto your fourth turbo would suggest it’s not seals, although it’s not impossible to be dodgy seals on all 4, just unlikely. That leaves the oil pressure. How confident are you of your pressure gauge and it’s readings? Can you get another gauge to verify the readings? If the pressure is correct, then it must be something to do with the feed and return pipes. I had always thought that the return pipe should be a larger diameter than the feed pipe.
I can't think what I've done, or how its affecting the turbo, but I must have seriously goosed up the engine rebuild
I don’t think you have ****ed anything, not seriously anyway. When you get to the bottom of it, you will probably find it’s a stupid cause. Don’t let it get you down.
v8250
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Morning @Al2O3 , did you sleep last night or have nightmares of over oily turbos
As @mick 1986 , must keep pecker up when experiencing these immensely frustrating faults Have you spoken with Richard at Turner Engineering/still have the original Garrett turbo from him? My thought here is it's best to have std kit when fault finding like this + he's hugely knowledgeable on our Land Rover engines.@lynall 's pics above are very clear/logical. If it was me I'd strip off all the turbo/IC and breather side components, thoroughly clean every component, check sump rtn tube and then inspect each component inside out. Replace any low cost parts with G grade and then start a careful rebuild being methodical throughout. This way you it's not turbo side or breather side.
Of course, you could invite us all over to your gaff to help. We'd drink and eat you out of house and home whilst we watch you continue to pull hair out. But at least you'd end up with a clean/empty biscuit cupboard...have a good day
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It started with the engine rebuild. Initially I thought it was burning the oil due to the honing. Tried different running in oil etc. Them realised there was a lot of oil in the IC pipes.
The oil return pipe is now a genuine land rover one. The HP oil feed pipe is aftermarket. I can only presume they have the correct diameters. The return pipe is a much better fit than all of the aftermarket ones I've tried, but its still a struggle to fit it.
I don't have another gauge.
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I drank a lot last night, so slept fine.Morning @Al2O3 , did you sleep last night or have nightmares of over oily turbos
@lynall 's pics above are very clear/logical. If it was me I'd strip off all the turbo/IC and breather side components, thoroughly clean every component, check sump rtn tube and then inspect each component inside out. Replace any low cost parts with G grade and then start a careful rebuild being methodical throughout. This way you it's not turbo side or breather side.
Of course, you could invite us all over to your gaff to help. We'd drink and eat you out of house and home whilst we watch you continue to pull hair out. But at least you'd end up with a clean/empty biscuit cupboard...have a good day
I spoke to Richard about the honing when I thought it was that. He didn't think it would be.
I've had all of the turbo IC components off already. Lynall's diagrams are great, but have considered all of those. The linked oil return pipe being the only real option. Yesterday I replaced the oil. Got the right volume out and put the right volume back in. On these engines there's a massive drop from the oil return hole to the max fill line on the dipstick. You'd have to have a huge volume of oil in there for it to reach the oil return hole.
Good idea about everyone coming around, but we don't have many biscuits. We'd just have to get pi$$ed instead
Is there a splash shield on the inside of the block covering the return pipe port?
I cannot remember but has anyone said pic of engine bay? that way we are all talking from the same hymn sheet.
If its a case of I will show you mine if you show me yours heres mine!
Totally std apart from no viscous fan and cyclone breather routed to under servo.
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There's no splash shield on the inside of the block. I'll have a look at the LR diagrams, but don't think there's one as standard that I forgot to put back.
I'll go and take a picture of the engine bay.
I don't think your bonnet stay is standard either
I'll go and take a picture of the engine bay.
I don't think your bonnet stay is standard either
There's no splash shield on the inside of the block. I'll have a look at the LR diagrams, but don't think there's one as standard that I forgot to put back.
I'll go and take a picture of the engine bay.
I don't think your bonnet stay is standard either
Believe it or not, yes that is the original bonnet stay!
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It looked like a stick about an inch diameter! I've just zoomed in and it looks metal. Is it just close to the camera
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Did you replace the oil pump at the time of rebuild? Was it aftermarket or OEM? Personally, I doubt very much if the honing has caused it, I would have expected honing to cause the oil to pass the rings and burn if it wasn’t done right, not enter into the intake.
I think it must be down to oil flow or oil pressure. I’m not sure how to go about resolving the issue at the minute. What size fittings are on the turbo feed and return pipes? Do you know the threads and sizes for them all?
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On the 300Tdi the oil is pumped by a rotor gear inside the engine casing. I did replace the rotor, though I think the casings are likely to wear more. I've wondered about it, but don't know how changing the rotor could increase the oil pressure. It was an original rigor from Turners.
Yeah, the honing was the first thought of why the engine was burning oil. That thought was not associated with the turbo. It was later that I realised the oil was coming through the turbo and so honing, rings etc were ruled out at that point.
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Could oil be getting down an exhaust valve guide(s) and into the turbo? Not sure if this is possible, just a thought----
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Appreciate the idea, Wimblowdriver. All of the valve guides and valves have been replaced. New valve stem seals too. If the oil goes through the exhaust side it doesn't go through the engine, it comes out the back of the exhaust and covers the back of the Landy.
Very very nice
Just thinking what about put turbo oil return into a pot then see if the turbo still passes oil? with and without the flex pipe.
Obviously you have limited run time as you will run out of oil but got to be worth a try?
My perhaps illogical thinking is to see if the return pipe is the issue?
