Kaijun
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Disco 2 anti-rust protection on brake lines
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Just checked - Parkside Aluminium Zinc Spray
Kaijun
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sierrafery
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My apologies but that's a silly statement IMO unless i misunderstood it. Rust converter will work only if there is rust to be converted hence it's name, for example Fertan which i used as well before Dinitrol is white like a dilluted milk then after it's applied to rusted surfaces they become black like painted. Please try next time on a rusted piece... it's about surface rust not something completely destroyed... it's pure science and it works great, think about that: https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Converter-FAQs-W48.aspx
JimS
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Just bought a 'rescue dog' '81 Porsche 924 for not a lot, they were good at galvanising the body and floor back then but the underside ancillaries are all really heavy surface rust. After cleaning & brushing off loose I'm going for Jenolite remover (I have a gallon of it!) and only plan on using the converter on the hard to shift. Followed by zinc spray or dinitrol
I believe Jenolite recommend remover (applied and agitated with brush) if at all possible as the main product, converter is a bit of a plan b or for really mild surface rust only.
I believe Jenolite recommend remover (applied and agitated with brush) if at all possible as the main product, converter is a bit of a plan b or for really mild surface rust only.
On a used vehicle, rust will always always come back, no matter what it is treated with. The best product only slows it down. The only way is to cut it out.It is what it is. Rusted brake pipes…get them out and renewed. Coating them with zinc rich paint from new can only be a good thing !!
No worries SF, it was meant as a figure of speech in the sense that don't expect miracles if you have anything other than surface corrosion as it won't penetrate beyond a fraction of a mm. I have used Dinitrol, Kurust and Rust-Oleum RCs, the latter I found is a better performer, but that's my experience. Surface preparation is still crucial for any kind of success to remove dirt, contaminants, and any existing rust proofing agents without removing the rust itself as otherwise it cannot react. Which sort of creates a dilemma as to why you don't just remove the rust as well while you're at it. That said, in my opinion RCs are ideal if you're treating rust on the bodywork where you don't want to damage the surrounding paintwork and then finish the job with a clear lacquer to seal it.
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Too early for long term assessment but I find Owatrol oil is good. Not to expensive, paint straight onto the metal pipe easy to apply regularly and you can still see if any bits are damaged.
Just looked at this stuff. I wouldn’t say it’s inexpensive at £30 ltr, but it is certainly worth a try. I like the idea of adding it to paint !!
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