P38A Another P38 Overheating Problem

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martynv8 said:
Looks like Epsom Green to me.
Click to expand...

Ok, I'll stop being lazy and check the paint ode on the chassis plate.

So, I've decided to do the waterpump and thermostat on Saturday (following a lads night out on the Friday night, so I am sure I will be hungover and grumpy!).

I've ordered the following from island 4x4

Waterpump with metal impeller
Thermostat
Viscous fan spanner
Clear indicator set (for no practical reason).

I've also ordered 10litres of coolant and I'm going to buy some gasket sealant.

Is there anything else anybody would recommend or that I'm likely to break (clips, screws seals etc). The last thing I want to do is get halfway through and realise that I am missing something!
 
I've ordered a new water pump belt as well, it will have to come off so I guess it makes sense to change it?

Is it too wishful for me to think that it is dead easy to replace?
 
Renniks said:
I've ordered a new water pump belt as well, it will have to come off so I guess it makes sense to change it?

Is it too wishful for me to think that it is dead easy to replace?
Click to expand...

The auxiliary belt? Nah, dead easy. Big screwdriver on big round bit of tensioner bracket and pivot to push the tensioner up. Slip belt off alternator. Make a note of where it goes but essentially the grooves go on the pulleys and the smooth back goes on the smooth tensioners. Getting the aircon belt off can be more fun. Need a big Allen key and then turn by hand.
 
Grrrrrr said:
The auxiliary belt? Nah, dead easy. Big screwdriver on big round bit of tensioner bracket and pivot to push the tensioner up. Slip belt off alternator. Make a note of where it goes but essentially the grooves go on the pulleys and the smooth back goes on the smooth tensioners. Getting the aircon belt off can be more fun. Need a big Allen key and then turn by hand.
Click to expand...

To be honest, I'm not sure what items the belt goes around. I've bought a 'water pump belt' as I thought, logically, I would need to remove this to change the water pump and that I can just swap them over.., I'm sure I will work it out.
 
Grrrrrr said:
The auxiliary belt? Nah, dead easy. Big screwdriver on big round bit of tensioner bracket and pivot to push the tensioner up. Slip belt off alternator. Make a note of where it goes but essentially the grooves go on the pulleys and the smooth back goes on the smooth tensioners. Getting the aircon belt off can be more fun. Need a big Allen key and then turn by hand.
Click to expand...

Sorry to resurrect my old thread but, believe it or not, I've just got around to changing the waterpump. I've read as many threads as I can on this and I'm now at the stage of taking the pump out. However, despite the response above, I still can't work out how to release the tension on the waterpump belt.

I logically thought I would have to unscrew a bolt to release the tension and, having looked at rave, undid what I thought was the tensioner pulley (see pic). However, this clearly hasn't released the tension and has now 'skewed' the pulley as it is still under tension (really should have thought that one through).

Are there any bolts I need to release before I use Grrrr suggestion of leavening with a screwdriver? I'm assuming by leavening in need to compress the piston at the top of the pic?

Any explanation would be appreciated!
image.jpeg
 
brianp38dse said:
You use a big allen key in the hole above the bolt you have undone and turn it clockwise.
Click to expand...

tomcat59alan said:
You can do or just a lever under the damper to relieve the tension and slip the belt off the idler pulley nearest the alternator.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys. Really appreciate the help. I knew I'd done something wrong straight away!

Im guessing now I've screwed up that idler pulley by taking the bolt out, I would probably be better off with getting hold of a big Allen key and releasing the tension properly so I can then refit the pulley?

Does anybody know what size the Allen key is? I was thinking maybe 14mm? Does it just loosen like a normal bolt I.e, lefty loosey?

Also, RAVE says I need M6 bolts to extract the waterpump from the pulley. Are these strictly necessary as, if so, I'll have to get hold of some!
 
Just be out and checked its more like 16mm, 14 is like a dick in a shirt sleeve, and you want to turn it to the right, towards the eas box, all you do is take the pressure of the belt to slip it of a pulley then release
cant help you as to the m6 bolt to extract pulley as have not had to do that yet.
 
brianp38dse said:
Just be out and checked its more like 16mm, 14 is like a dick in a shirt sleeve, and you want to turn it to the right, towards the eas box, all you do is take the pressure of the belt to slip it of a pulley then release
cant help you as to the m6 bolt to extract pulley as have not had to do that yet.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brian. A trip to screw fix tomorrow then. I'm thinking of actually changing the bracket itself as I can see a hairline crack (and the fact that I've already undone the bottom bolt).

I'll post a write up of how I've done everything and the problems I've encountered when it's all done...
 
To change the bracket which is a known week point you will need to undo the allen bit to the left as it is a cover you will find another bolt underneath.
 
Its more like 17mm, a 10mm hex headed bolt is a dead fit. I welded a 10mm bolt to a bit of bar and used that on mine and by the way that is just a cap on the end of a shaft so to speak to retain tension arm, you need to place a bar over the top and inbetween the legs of the bracket then under the damper to lever the damper up if that makes sense and slid the belt off the water pump pulley first, hope you can work all that out.
 
brianp38dse said:
To change the bracket which is a known week point you will need to undo the allen bit to the left as it is a cover you will find another bolt underneath.
Click to expand...
Just remove the cover, the bolts that hold the damper and the bracket will slide off its pivot shaft.As has been posted ,before you remove any bolts you should release the belt tension.Big screwdriver under the bottom of the damper and apply pressure, slip the belt off the idler pulley near the alternator pulley. Draw the belt position before you take it off.It's all shown in Rave.
 
kds said:
Its more like 17mm, a 10mm hex headed bolt is a dead fit. I welded a 10mm bolt to a bit of bar and used that on mine and by the way that is just a cap on the end of a shaft so to speak to retain tension arm, you need to place a bar over the top and inbetween the legs of the bracket then under the damper to lever the damper up if that makes sense and slid the belt off the water pump pulley first, hope you can work all that out.
Click to expand...
Or hold the bolt in a pair of Mole grips if you havent got welding equipment
 
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