Another ****ing thread about series ****ing brakes :D

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I would do it manually! I have tried easy bleed kits and they are more trouble than they are worth in my opinion and only good for high pressure systems, still rather not use them though!

Wheels should just be able to turn ideally, then bleed through. Pedal will have a little bit of travel, but not too much.
 
Actually I tried to enter tw#t never mind fooking and coonting and the blog site entered four stars ****, how come you can say the really bad words but not ****?
 
If your brakes are not bleeding using either the auto bleed or manual method, air must be entering through a loose connection. Check ALL your connections to hoses etc but dont nip them too much or you will strip the threads. I used to restore Morris Minors ( but I am okay now) and they are just a smaller version of Landrovers. Also make sure the tin of brake fluid has not been shaken prior to use. This can let air into the fluid. Let it settle for a few hours before use. Good luck, I have had to retrieve my tools from the bottom of the garden many times through bad temper.
 
have you set the distance on the master cylinder plunger?
2 nuts on the non servo type, screwed nipple on the servo type.

just fitted a new type master cylinder (the later type) and have now set the travel to full so i get the full movement on the master cylinder is that right or have i done that wrong?

arran
 
the rod needs to be just long enough to allow fluid back into the resovoir when the peddle is at rest. any longer and it will pump up and not release, shorter will push fluid into resovoir before pushing wheel cylinders out, using up valuble peddle travel.
nb- i may have got the long and short the wrong way round.
 
hi
you pump right to the floor once then do 4 half pumps rapidly to push the air down to the fekkin bleed valve.
who ever thought of putting the bleed valve at the bottom needs a fekkin good hammering!
 
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