Amplifier/sub 12v line

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P38 guy

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Amman, Jordan
Hi hi all how are you doing today Im willing to install a small amp and a sub in my p38 (99 door amps model) and I’m trying to see what line I could use for 12v (I don’t want running cables) and I found and got told that the purple wire going to original sub is a permanent 12v. Now my question is what’s the current/watts that the line got and would it power a small around 500-700 watts amplifier? Also that’s the last question for this season
 
Hi hi all how are you doing today Im willing to install a small amp and a sub in my p38 (99 door amps model) and I’m trying to see what line I could use for 12v (I don’t want running cables) and I found and got told that the purple wire going to original sub is a permanent 12v. Now my question is what’s the current/watts that the line got and would it power a small around 500-700 watts amplifier? Also that’s the last question for this season
500-700 watts is small? :eek: In the left side rear quarter behind the trim there is a connector for the 7S trailer connector, there is a switched live in that connector, not sure that it would power an amp that size though
 
500-700 watts is small? :eek: In the left side rear quarter behind the trim there is a connector for the 7S trailer connector, there is a switched live in that connector, not sure that it would power an amp that size though
That ain’t small ? Could it power 300watt ? 500-700 speaker watts lol
 
May be better to look at what amp will provide 200w to the sub and see what current it needs.
I got this thing whi Is supposed to be 200watt 2 channel amps but I don’t know it it works with a sub as I’m new to car audio.
What do you all recommend? And what’s the highest rated current that purple cable hold before burning the car ? As i see it’s 2.5mm so thin
 

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If you’re already looking to run the phono leads from the head unit you’re probably better off running a dedicated 12v power cable from the battery at the same time. Most subs/audio kits will have one with an inline fuse built in, you’d then have a switched live cable from the stereo so it’s not drawing power all the time.

I’m not sure the stock wires will work with aftermarket subs and amps. If you just want bass and don’t know what you’re doing then a sub with a built in amp would be a better idea for you.
 
Make sure you upgrade the alternator if you're running 20 amps for the sound system or you'll have flat battery problems.
 
That amp is no more powerful than my Sony headunit specced at 55w x4, it is fused at 10amp, the rms value is more like 17.5w x4, or 35w x2 in the case of the amp, 2.5mm wires will be fine.
 
That amp is no more powerful than my Sony headunit specced at 55w x4, it is fused at 10amp, the rms value is more like 17.5w x4, or 35w x2 in the case of the amp, 2.5mm wires will be fine.
+1 on this. There's many car amps on the market with wild claims on power output. Most of them state the Peak Power of L+R added together rather than RMS per channel !! Even with decent bridge amplifier, the max is 55W peak as above, hence the 220W claim for a four channel amp.

It's also why those silly boom boom installs, use loads of subs working together to shift more air. Much the same as large concert systems use multiple speaker boxes.
 
+1 on this. There's many car amps on the market with wild claims on power output. Most of them state the Peak Power of L+R added together rather than RMS per channel !! Even with decent bridge amplifier, the max is 55W peak as above, hence the 220W claim for a four channel amp.

It's also why those silly boom boom installs, use loads of subs working together to shift more air. Much the same as large concert systems use multiple speaker boxes.
Changed plan, installing active subwoofer
 
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