Amplifier/sub 12v line

P38 guy · Monday at 16:49

Hi hi all how are you doing today Im willing to install a small amp and a sub in my p38 (99 door amps model) and I’m trying to see what line I could use for 12v (I don’t want running cables) and I found and got told that the purple wire going to original sub is a permanent 12v. Now my question is what’s the current/watts that the line got and would it power a small around 500-700 watts amplifier? Also that’s the last question for this season

Datatek · Monday at 17:02

P38 guy said:
Hi hi all how are you doing today Im willing to install a small amp and a sub in my p38 (99 door amps model) and I’m trying to see what line I could use for 12v (I don’t want running cables) and I found and got told that the purple wire going to original sub is a permanent 12v. Now my question is what’s the current/watts that the line got and would it power a small around 500-700 watts amplifier? Also that’s the last question for this season

500-700 watts is small?

In the left side rear quarter behind the trim there is a connector for the 7S trailer connector, there is a switched live in that connector, not sure that it would power an amp that size though

P38 guy · Monday at 17:16

Datatek said:
500-700 watts is small? In the left side rear quarter behind the trim there is a connector for the 7S trailer connector, there is a switched live in that connector, not sure that it would power an amp that size though

That ain’t small ? Could it power 300watt ? 500-700 speaker watts lol

Datatek · Monday at 17:23

P38 guy said:
That ain’t small ? Could it power 300watt ? 500-700 speaker watts lol

A 300 watt audio amp is going to draw a peak current of over 20 amps. That is ear drum damaging power in a car.

P38 guy · Monday at 17:43

Datatek said:
A 300 watt audio amp is going to draw a peak current of over 20 amps. That is ear drum damaging power in a car.

I want anything to power a subwoofer, kenwood w3010 sub. I just want bass

gstuart · Monday at 17:49

Talking about the bass

P38 guy · Monday at 19:37

Datatek said:
A 300 watt audio amp is going to draw a peak current of over 20 amps. That is ear drum damaging power in

gstuart said:
Talking about the bass

Any help ?

backinblack · Monday at 20:05

May be better to look at what amp will provide 200w to the sub and see what current it needs.

gstuart · Monday at 21:08

P38 guy said:
Any help ?

Was just something to make u smile when u said “ i just want bass “

Joking aside see ur in very capable hands in the setup ur trying to sort out

P38 guy · Monday at 21:55

backinblack said:
May be better to look at what amp will provide 200w to the sub and see what current it needs.

I got this thing whi Is supposed to be 200watt 2 channel amps but I don’t know it it works with a sub as I’m new to car audio.
What do you all recommend? And what’s the highest rated current that purple cable hold before burning the car ? As i see it’s 2.5mm so thin

backinblack · Monday at 22:12

gstuart said:
Was just something to make u smile when u said “ i just want bass “

Joking aside see ur in very capable hands in the setup ur trying to sort out

Hope you're not referring to me, I know cock all about P38's. And only slightly more about subs and amps.

backinblack · Monday at 22:35

Looking at the spec it needs 12amps and a phono input. Does the P38 stereo have a sub output?

backinblack · Monday at 22:46

gstuart said:
Joking aside see ur in very capable hands in the setup ur trying to sort out

I have at least 3 speakers not working in my L322 but I can't be bothered taking the door cards off and scoping the inputs to see if it's the amp or not.

P38 guy · Tuesday at 05:16

backinblack said:
Looking at the spec it needs 12amps and a phono input. Does the P38 stereo have a sub output?

View attachment 328634

These ain’t a problem, got aftermarket headunit and gonna put phono ends on the 2 sides of the orange/orange and black sub wire

P38Seb · Tuesday at 06:19

If you’re already looking to run the phono leads from the head unit you’re probably better off running a dedicated 12v power cable from the battery at the same time. Most subs/audio kits will have one with an inline fuse built in, you’d then have a switched live cable from the stereo so it’s not drawing power all the time.

I’m not sure the stock wires will work with aftermarket subs and amps. If you just want bass and don’t know what you’re doing then a sub with a built in amp would be a better idea for you.

roythebus · Tuesday at 12:53

Make sure you upgrade the alternator if you're running 20 amps for the sound system or you'll have flat battery problems.

Datatek · Tuesday at 15:49

roythebus said:
Make sure you upgrade the alternator if you're running 20 amps for the sound system or you'll have flat battery problems.

Could always put a generator in the boot

aj1954 · Tuesday at 21:54

That amp is no more powerful than my Sony headunit specced at 55w x4, it is fused at 10amp, the rms value is more like 17.5w x4, or 35w x2 in the case of the amp, 2.5mm wires will be fine.

pwood999 · Wednesday at 09:39

aj1954 said:
That amp is no more powerful than my Sony headunit specced at 55w x4, it is fused at 10amp, the rms value is more like 17.5w x4, or 35w x2 in the case of the amp, 2.5mm wires will be fine.

+1 on this. There's many car amps on the market with wild claims on power output. Most of them state the Peak Power of L+R added together rather than RMS per channel !! Even with decent bridge amplifier, the max is 55W peak as above, hence the 220W claim for a four channel amp.

It's also why those silly boom boom installs, use loads of subs working together to shift more air. Much the same as large concert systems use multiple speaker boxes.

P38 guy · Wednesday at 14:31

pwood999 said:
+1 on this. There's many car amps on the market with wild claims on power output. Most of them state the Peak Power of L+R added together rather than RMS per channel !! Even with decent bridge amplifier, the max is 55W peak as above, hence the 220W claim for a four channel amp.

It's also why those silly boom boom installs, use loads of subs working together to shift more air. Much the same as large concert systems use multiple speaker boxes.

Changed plan, installing active subwoofer

Amplifier/sub 12v line

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