Am I over heating?

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The problem wit removing the stat is water is lazy so will take the easiest route via the bypass hose and not the radiator, maybe not all but enough for the results to not be definitive.

My 200 has a capilliary gauge set up and runs as follows on my old daily commute, I could predict the stat opening to within a hundred yards or so.
2 mile journey through town 30mph and the gauge barely moves until its done 2 miles then it creeps to 40, then Im onto a 50 section of road for a mile or so then the temp rises, once I get onto the 70mph section I give it some beans and after a 1/2 mile or so the temp creeps to 95/6 then the stat opens and the temp drops to high 80s and pretty much stays there for the rest of the 15 mile journey, if its sub zero as I crest the top of the hill which is over a mile long and crawl down the other side as its a 40 limit the temp will drop to low 80s and the next few miles are alll downhill in a 30 limit and the temp can drop to under 80 and the heater is then pants!

The only time the engine can get dangerously hot is when off road low speed working it hard, if visous was on it wouldnt be an issue.

Your main issue will be getting a quality stat as the cheap ones are utter ****e, waxstat was the make but dont think you can get them anymore?
 
I forgot to say the caiplliary gauge set up is on ebay listed under Tim capilliary temperatue gauge 35 quid Iirc.
 
I don't really see the problem, your guage stays in the normal section in normal conditions and it goes up a bit when the weather is hot and you are in slow or stationary traffic, I thought all IC engines were like that.

Col
 
My 200 has a capilliary gauge set up and runs as follows on my old daily commute, I could predict the stat opening to within a hundred yards or so.
2 mile journey through town 30mph and the gauge barely moves until its done 2 miles then it creeps to 40, then Im onto a 50 section of road for a mile or so then the temp rises, once I get onto the 70mph section I give it some beans and after a 1/2 mile or so the temp creeps to 95/6 then the stat opens and the temp drops to high 80s and pretty much stays there for the rest of the 15 mile journey, if its sub zero as I crest the top of the hill which is over a mile long and crawl down the other side as its a 40 limit the temp will drop to low 80s and the next few miles are alll downhill in a 30 limit and the temp can drop to under 80 and the heater is then pants!

Thank you for your reply, really helpful information.

I don't really see the problem, your guage stays in the normal section in normal conditions and it goes up a bit when the weather is hot and you are in slow or stationary traffic, I thought all IC engines were like that.

Col

As I stated, I was just asking for advice and options as I've read alot about how these engines don't get hot. There's always one unhelpful comment mind.
 
Thank you for your reply, really helpful information.



As I stated, I was just asking for advice and options as I've read alot about how these engines don't get hot. There's always one unhelpful comment mind.
It wasn't meant to be unhelpful, it was my way of saying, it seems normal to me so don't worry about it. Having said that a good flush out every now and then never hurts.

Col
 
It wasn't meant to be unhelpful, it was my way of saying, it seems normal to me so don't worry about it. Having said that a good flush out every now and then never hurts.

Col

Fair enough. I guess each engine can run slightly different due to history, workload etc. Cheers

Could be your water pump not pushing enough coolant through the radiator.

Possibly, it was new when I did the timing belt 3 months ago though.

Cheers guys
 
I'd fit a proper gauge - TIM and Durite are usually good, the electric gauges are easy to fit. Don't be surprised if a new thermostat is faulty - test it before fitting.
 
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