Allmakes vs britpart vs bearmach

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Saltlick

Saltlick

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,082
Location
Taunton, Somerset
what ho blokes.

I think I've got a dodgy cv joint going on the disco 1 (clunks when on full lock and feels like the axle/trans is 'climbing' something until it clunks and carries on a bit more until I straighten up) so I've been looking at replacement CVs (part TDJ000010) and several options come up such as these from LR Direct (link).

So the initial question is do I go for britpart as it has a 2 year warranty (all but worthless if I'm almost guaranteed to repeat the job because it's crap quality) or go with an allmakes part (scary that it's actually cheaper) but with only a 1 year warranty, or fork out more and go for bearmach, or if I'm doing that the go a bit higher and get a genuine part?

The secondary question here is that what is the quality difference between these three, as they seem to be the three main suppliers of LR parts (aside from JLR themselves)?

Cheers
 
Saltlick said:
what ho blokes.

I think I've got a dodgy cv joint going on the disco 1 (clunks when on full lock and feels like the axle/trans is 'climbing' something until it clunks and carries on a bit more until I straighten up) so I've been looking at replacement CVs (part TDJ000010) and several options come up such as these from LR Direct (link).

So the initial question is do I go for britpart as it has a 2 year warranty (all but worthless if I'm almost guaranteed to repeat the job because it's crap quality) or go with an allmakes part (scary that it's actually cheaper) but with only a 1 year warranty, or fork out more and go for bearmach, or if I'm doing that the go a bit higher and get a genuine part?

The secondary question here is that what is the quality difference between these three, as they seem to be the three main suppliers of LR parts (aside from JLR themselves)?

Cheers
Click to expand...
pattern ones are likely to be much of the same where ever you get them from as will be a decent brand or genuine, though ive used the bp pattern and have been ok but i dont expect the life the originals had
 
With lrdirect, I tend to go with their workshop approved one I.e the ones they fit at their workshop. I'd go for the bearmach with a second thought.
Not sure the warranty is even applicable if you fit it yourself.
 
Thanks James, very sensible approach...

SpringDon, probably will go with the BM part as they often approve them.
We must be neighbours if you're also near taunton! Must have passed on the roads around town at some point? I'm up near Corfe, whereabouts are you?
 
This post has a familiar ring to it :rolleyes:
When LR refer to 'genuine parts' what exactly are you getting for your money, in terms of quality I wonder. In the case of replacement parts that have been obsolete for years (or even decades) where exactly do JLR source such components today :confused:
 
Yeah I know :)
It's just that generally you don't often hear the same abuse that britpart gets, thrown at BM/Allmakes etc. Being at the wrong end of the month I might well have to go the very budget route anyway now and see how long they last.

AS confirmation though, does everyone agree from my description that it sounds like a CV is going?
 
norseman said:
This post has a familiar ring to it :rolleyes:
When LR refer to 'genuine parts' what exactly are you getting for your money, in terms of quality I wonder. In the case of replacement parts that have been obsolete for years (or even decades) where exactly do JLR source such components today :confused:
Click to expand...

I think you're implying that genuine parts are the same as replacement but in a jlr box. Whilst I can't say I've seen any swivels, the valve, Pistons and springs I've had recently have been visibly different to the britpart equivalent.
Although I do agree that Oem sometimes just means that the same factory made some in 1957.
 
OEM is 'Original Equipment Manufacturer', the same place that makes/made them for the car maker, nothing else.

JLR will always have some fast-moving spares on continuous order, they won't stockpile things that they can still get made.

Peter
 
not had an issues with bearmach, more than once i have brought BM and peeled off the sellotaped label to find genuine JLR parts stickers underneath

britpart i have had a few bits that dont even fit right, i avoid for anything that needs to work, okay for plastic trim type stuff or non-essential pieces - the intercooler metal pipe i got thats is bp is fine for instance,

all makes seem okay but i have only had 2 non-essential parts from them so far

as for essential bits i buy genuine or OEM (lucas, girling etc) from my local motor factors
 
Regarding OEM/genuine LR you can still get caught out. I once had a front screen-wash pump fitted that was sourced from the local stealer & it never worked straight from the box! Returned for refund & replaced with a BP item that is still working o_O
 
Ha! Yep, even genuine and brand new can be faulty...

@jamesmartin - as an aside, could you tell me where FTC124 fits in to the ABS swivel housing? I'll rebuild the swivel pins while I'm in there and just ordering some bits but can't remember or find out on the net where this thrust washer goes.. Thanks :)
 
RED HERRING ALERT!
It would seem that the disco is stuck in diff lock! Despite the cdl lever being firmly over to the right in hi range and unlocked :(

I took the centre console out last night and the linkages seem to be moving and activating the rod that engages CDL to on/off, but there is some slop, so it might not be moving it enough. I'll try it manually with mole grips shortly.

So as I had it running in difflocks a couple of weeks ago when the front prop was off, I'm guessing it just didn't disengage correctly and I've been slowly rogering the drive train now for a fortnight :(
On tight turns when there's a loud knock/bang, can I assume that's a half shaft skipping a spline, or is it likely to be something less serious? I doubt it but I'm ever the optimist!!
 
Saltlick said:
RED HERRING ALERT!
It would seem that the disco is stuck in diff lock! Despite the cdl lever being firmly over to the right in hi range and unlocked :(

I took the centre console out last night and the linkages seem to be moving and activating the rod that engages CDL to on/off, but there is some slop, so it might not be moving it enough. I'll try it manually with mole grips shortly.

So as I had it running in difflocks a couple of weeks ago when the front prop was off, I'm guessing it just didn't disengage correctly and I've been slowly rogering the drive train now for a fortnight :(
On tight turns when there's a loud knock/bang, can I assume that's a half shaft skipping a spline, or is it likely to be something less serious? I doubt it but I'm ever the optimist!!
Click to expand...
To prove it is out of difflock jack a front wheel up with the handbrake on (chock it if you are on a slope), if you can spin the wheel continuously then it is out, if you cant its still in.
 
If its not an adjustment issue and it is still locked it could be a mechanism issue or a seized centre diff (if you have been previously spinning one wheel a lot with the CDL disengaged)
 
It depends on the quality control and materials used. Some, in particular the Japs use, Statistical process control or SPC for short. A lot of Chinese makers use, Special hyper inspection technology or SHIT for short.
 
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