All new brake pipes

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

dandd

Active Member
Posts
139
Where is the best place to get a complete set of brake pipes for an early freelander?
 
That's what I thought
What size pipe? Any idea on how many foot I'll need?
 
That's what I thought
What size pipe? Any idea on how many foot I'll need?
Standard 3/16" is needed to replace the 4 pipes to the wheels.
You'll need just over a standard 20' roll and all fittings are standard 10mm in a collection of male or female.
 
Dandd, where are you based???
I did one side of my mates car a couple of months ago.
Based on that you will need two rolls of brake pipe. I reccomend you plan to put joints in the rear brake pipes as the originals are one piece and impossible to get off in one piece let alone get back on.
Also my top tip is make slave piece. thats a fitting with a small length of pipe beaten over at the end to stop fluid coming out. undo the brake pipe under the bonnet and put in the slave piece stopping the master cylinder from draining. You can then take your time removing that line and making a pipe. once back together I bleed that one line and move to the next. that way you know which line still has air in if you have a soft pedal, as it can only be the line you are working on.
Do not buy a cheap flanging tool off ebay, they dont work.
Mine was about £50. pipe work and fittings will cost about £40. fluid £10. saving you about £140 on what a garage will charge.
Found this one on ebay, this is the type I used for years and it was really good.
image.png
 
Cheers for the help chaps , very much appreciated thanks for the advice and top tips!

I'm based in northants by the way.
 
Dandd, where are you based???
I did one side of my mates car a couple of months ago.
Based on that you will need two rolls of brake pipe. I reccomend you plan to put joints in the rear brake pipes as the originals are one piece and impossible to get off in one piece let alone get back on.
Also my top tip is make slave piece. thats a fitting with a small length of pipe beaten over at the end to stop fluid coming out. undo the brake pipe under the bonnet and put in the slave piece stopping the master cylinder from draining. You can then take your time removing that line and making a pipe. once back together I bleed that one line and move to the next. that way you know which line still has air in if you have a soft pedal, as it can only be the line you are working on.
Do not buy a cheap flanging tool off ebay, they dont work.
Mine was about £50. pipe work and fittings will cost about £40. fluid £10. saving you about £140 on what a garage will charge.
Found this one on ebay, this is the type I used for years and it was really good.
View attachment 102050
good advice imo
 
Run the new pipe from the modulator end and follow the old pipes. Once you've fitted the far end, move towards the front of the car again, snipping off the old pipe in sections and clipping the new in its place.

If you wedge the brake pedal down with a piece of wood (undo a fitting or bleeder to release the pressure) you'll hardly get a drip from the pipes.

Google OP1 and OP2 tube flares if you want to learn how to flare pipes correctly.
 
Just to clarify
For the freelander do I need to single, double or bubble flare?
 
Get a decent brake pipe flare tool. Use it to press a die into the end (OP1 or 'male' flare), then if necessary press in the anvil without the die (OP2 or 'female' flare). The Freelander has both types, so just replace like with like.
 
Back
Top