all lights flashing?!
- Thread starter MrDan22
- Start date
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wil2813
Well-Known Member
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ive had this problem before,i found out in the end the wiring loom had corroded behind the lower drivers side kick panel and under drivers sill trim,chopped it all back to under dash and soldered in a new piece of loom with good plugs back to becm,sorted no more problems
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I can well believe that, I've seen water running down my drivers kick panel under heavy rain - hopefully sorted now after resealing rubber seal that sits under the pollen filter housing.
Datatek
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13.9 volts is not enough, should be 14.2V
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I agree with the D.....
StuckAgainSteve
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Alternators sending noise into the electrical system can usually be diagnosed by fully charging the battery, then disconnecting the alternator - if the car is fine then the alternator is the problem. Sometimes you can get what appears to be an acceptable charge voltage but there are thousands of voltage spikes you can't see without a good 'scope.
If a fully charged battery isn't holding at least 12.6 Volts then it's on the way out, measurement should be after the "float charge" has been removed i.e. the battery has been put under a small load for a short period after charging.
If a fully charged battery isn't holding at least 12.6 Volts then it's on the way out, measurement should be after the "float charge" has been removed i.e. the battery has been put under a small load for a short period after charging.
Found the problem! after searching for a while.
The Fuse (F1) under the seat had half burnt out leaving a tiny strip of metal causing an incorrect continuity reading and as it slowly burnt caused the dash lights to pulse less and less. All the Help is much appreciated! should i still be worried about the low voltage on my battery?
The Fuse (F1) under the seat had half burnt out leaving a tiny strip of metal causing an incorrect continuity reading and as it slowly burnt caused the dash lights to pulse less and less. All the Help is much appreciated! should i still be worried about the low voltage on my battery?
aerofabrique
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Glad you you found your 5p fix...but yes if your battery is weak it will cause you problems especially in the winter. If funds permit look at doing the alternator to if you're not getting the charge as mentioned previously.
Perhaps also search the forum for problems with battery drain (due RF receiver for Keyfob) to nip any problems in the bud and look after the new battery.
Perhaps also search the forum for problems with battery drain (due RF receiver for Keyfob) to nip any problems in the bud and look after the new battery.
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i think the rf receiver has already been snipped as it doesn't work. was going to think about re-connecting it but if its an existing problem i'll leave it.
i'll go and do tests on the alt and more on the battery as they are both new so i'm thinking that its got an under powered battery on it. what's the best battery to have on a RR? i think mine is type 072 70AH 600A
i'll go and do tests on the alt and more on the battery as they are both new so i'm thinking that its got an under powered battery on it. what's the best battery to have on a RR? i think mine is type 072 70AH 600A
aerofabrique
Active Member
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For a petrol thats adequate I guess but look at Yuasa and Bosch Batteries and get the biggest and best you can fit.
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Datatek
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Battery Megastore, Alphaline 135AH 1000CCA about £98 delivered, 4 year warranty. No connection, just a satisfied user.
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Do I win a prize for (again) correctly diagnosing something??
You are a clever lad.
raise::lvkiss-106::lvkiss-106:
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Listening and Learning from the best Tony...raise:
And also a hat tip to Datatek too...raise:
These two are truly the de facto gurus on the P38 and all things Range Rover.....
raise:And also a hat tip to Datatek too...
raise:These two are truly the de facto gurus on the P38 and all things Range Rover.....
