P38A AirCon

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It's just over the border mate.;):D
It's just over the border mate.;):D
There's actually a place about 6miles from me called Wales. A few years back a group of sport fans were heading to Wales for an event but their sat nav sent them to Wales in South Yorkshire, and like silly b*ggers followed their sat nav instead of common sense:D:D
 
They have to do a leak test before filling it. Tell them what you've done and they'll bung a UV dye in first to see where it leaks.
Kwikfit in Winsford was where I went. I told them there was a leak and could they put dye in it. They ignored me and gassed mine up. The stink was horrible. Then when I repeated that I'd asked them to put the dye in to find the leaks they refused. Told me that they aren't allowed to work on a leaking system. Bollocks obviously as they have the UV dye to find leaks :rolleyes:
 
Kwikfit in Winsford was where I went. I told them there was a leak and could they put dye in it. They ignored me and gassed mine up. The stink was horrible. Then when I repeated that I'd asked them to put the dye in to find the leaks they refused. Told me that they aren't allowed to work on a leaking system. Bollocks obviously as they have the UV dye to find leaks :rolleyes:

As far as I am aware they HAVE to do leak test as part of the drawdown of the old gas to prevent exactly what happened to you. So they were cutting corners or ignorant. I'd report them to head office for damaging the environment.
 
Nice to know. I'll do functional testing over the next few weeks, can't do it now I broke my vacuum pump. I want to be able to chase down the leak so might find a DIY leak test kit first. I don't mind doing the work as long as I know what to do. Just need to buy an outside garage tent now the weather is turning :cool:
 
Nice to know. I'll do functional testing over the next few weeks, can't do it now I broke my vacuum pump. I want to be able to chase down the leak so might find a DIY leak test kit first. I don't mind doing the work as long as I know what to do. Just need to buy an outside garage tent now the weather is turning :cool:

It is a bit hit and miss with Qwuickfit. I've met some really decent, knowledgeable chaps but also a few totally ignorant wallies who were shelf-stacking the week before.
 
I used my compressor on my aircon to pressurise & find the leaks with soapy water. Then after changing condenser & several seals, my local indie did an extended vacuum (while we had cuppa), and then gassed it up no problem. The only remaining issue was dual pressure switch, so changed that with no pressure loss thanks to the valve in the fitting. All working afterwards.
 
I used my compressor on my aircon to pressurise & find the leaks with soapy water. Then after changing condenser & several seals, my local indie did an extended vacuum (while we had cuppa), and then gassed it up no problem. The only remaining issue was dual pressure switch, so changed that with no pressure loss thanks to the valve in the fitting. All working afterwards.
Ok great, thanks. I changed my trinary (I think that's what it's called) switch and other gubbins last year in prep for gassing it up. The only thing I haven't changed is the bit under the dash. Pound to a pinch of s*** that's where the leak will be. I have a compressor so I'll do that, I wasn't sure if it would work.

I've also heard that some people use LPG in gassing up the a/c system. I'm guessing it's cheaper that R124 or whatever it is. Cost me over £90 to get the a/c re-gassed on the Q7 and that only takes half what the P38 takes :eek:
 
My air-con experience: just got a Japanese import P38 with no action on the air-con at all. The compressor has 2x wires going into the back of its clutch with bullet connectors. Disconnected them and applied 12 volts to check the clutch: click clack no problem. So I went into our local "any car" garage. They leak tested, refilled (system was empty and hence the dual pressure switch was inhibiting compressor action) - they added UV dye and all ran well. £50 bill for that. It is working OK, and if it stops working all I have to do is go back and let them check for leaks by looking for the dye. From previous experience, old flexible pipes can gently seep and lose pressure, and of course the compressor seals can wear. All seems very logical. Local garages generally offer this service and if you know the guys it is a lot safer than pot luck with Halfords / ATS / Kwikfit, although most of them work on a "no cool / no fee" basis.
 
My air-con experience: just got a Japanese import P38 with no action on the air-con at all. The compressor has 2x wires going into the back of its clutch with bullet connectors. Disconnected them and applied 12 volts to check the clutch: click clack no problem. So I went into our local "any car" garage. They leak tested, refilled (system was empty and hence the dual pressure switch was inhibiting compressor action) - they added UV dye and all ran well. £50 bill for that. It is working OK, and if it stops working all I have to do is go back and let them check for leaks by looking for the dye. From previous experience, old flexible pipes can gently seep and lose pressure, and of course the compressor seals can wear. All seems very logical. Local garages generally offer this service and if you know the guys it is a lot safer than pot luck with Halfords / ATS / Kwikfit, although most of them work on a "no cool / no fee" basis.
Quite right mate,Kwik**** did mine and it didn't put out any cold air,I said can you check why? , Sorry we're not allowed because we're not trained.No charge drove home,slid under and bad contact on the tri pressure, cleaned it up and worked fine.Did I go back? Did I fec.:D
 
On our list too - suspect condenser as first step. But no point adding to expense until he is running and mobile again. At least he is looking a lot cleaner at the moment. Rust treatment / hammerite on the plate under whatever the box it as the passenger rear of the engine bay and the battery is sitting loose without the tray while we clean and rust treat the area under that. Built solid is good, loads of metal there to treat. Either of our Fords would look like chicken wire there by now I reckon given the same treatment.
 
My air-con experience: just got a Japanese import P38 with no action on the air-con at all. The compressor has 2x wires going into the back of its clutch with bullet connectors. Disconnected them and applied 12 volts to check the clutch: click clack no problem. So I went into our local "any car" garage. They leak tested, refilled (system was empty and hence the dual pressure switch was inhibiting compressor action) - they added UV dye and all ran well. £50 bill for that. It is working OK, and if it stops working all I have to do is go back and let them check for leaks by looking for the dye. From previous experience, old flexible pipes can gently seep and lose pressure, and of course the compressor seals can wear. All seems very logical. Local garages generally offer this service and if you know the guys it is a lot safer than pot luck with Halfords / ATS / Kwikfit, although most of them work on a "no cool / no fee" basis.

It isn't always a leak. On mine the thermostatic expansion valve was knackered so it kept venting to atmosphere.
 
I bought this set from amazon earlier this year. Doesn't show in pictures, but they came in a nice plastic case.

Not tried a refill or top-up with refrigerant can yet, but definitely works to check static & running pressures.
 
What type of adapter do you need to be able to pressurise with compressed air? I'll be doing a leak test but pressurising first, vacuum test if there is no leak under pressure. What psi is best to test at, don't want to blow any seals etc.
 
You're not supposed to use air as it contains moisture and other contaminants, with nitrogen bring the preferred gas to test with. That said, it's already open to the atmosphere (which is mostly nitrogen) and moisture
You'll need to apply a vacuum for quite a while too draw moisture out
 
If / when I get round to trying to sort Otto's aircon out, once I think I have found the leak(s) and dealt with it/them I was planning to put a home made 1 way valve on one connection, outbound only and use some of my TIG argon cylinder to flush the system through on a 1 way loop with dry clean gas. That should help chase a lot of moisture out before then sealing and taking to vacuum / get it filled and tested.
 
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