airbags changed suspension being weird.

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Busterthebulldog said:
AIf I park up in the garage it sits
Level but as soon as key is removed it adjusts itself back on a tilt.
Click to expand...


I'd be tempted to go back to basics. Get her level, pull the EAS relay and then switch off and lock her up. See if she is leaning in the morning. The EAS computer shouldn't do anything so if it has moved then it is a leak somewhere.

If she isn't leaning then maybe a height sensor or the driver pack or something is acting up. I think there are 2 types of height sensor? Correct replacement?
 
I dont have to wait till morning it just leans when driven and is leaning when parked up in my garage. I changed the front height sensor and made up 16 blocks took all measurements and rewrote to memory. It did feel different but transmission was noisier. I changed the front sensor but it made no difference I think the sensor was ok tbh. I think the issue is elsewhere but just need a little help as to what I am looking for. Is the driver pack part of the valve block or something else ?
 
Busterthebulldog said:
I dont have to wait till morning it just leans when driven and is leaning when parked up in my garage. I changed the front height sensor and made up 16 blocks took all measurements and rewrote to memory. It did feel different but transmission was noisier. I changed the front sensor but it made no difference I think the sensor was ok tbh. I think the issue is elsewhere but just need a little help as to what I am looking for. Is the driver pack part of the valve block or something else ?
Click to expand...

It is the black box attached to the back of the valve-block.I'm not sure it would cause your symptoms. Datatek knows way more about this sort of thing.

Have you got a Nanocom? Can you take a live trace of the EAS?
 
Just read further up. You're using Storey Wilson's EAS unlock suite? Never used it so do not know if you can take a trace or not. SaintV8 or Datatek are probably your best bet on using that software.
 
Busterthebulldog said:
Yes using storey wilsons. I dont have a nanocom. I dont know what a live trace is sorry.
Click to expand...

On the Nanocom you can record what all the input readings are in live time and then analyse the "csv" file in Excel or similar to see what it is trying to do and why. Someone might have one near you and be able to do it for you. Or you're welcome to pop up here!
 
Thanks Grrr thats very decent of you but quite a distance. Can someone tell me how or what gives the car its levels from side to side...is it just sensor based using an algorithm? I think I shall try swapping the valve block over just out of curiosity as I am somewhat stuck now. The rangy has become my daily as my transit also has an unfixable fault .
 
I have the pc plugged in ...when I click go to a particular height it adjusts but not exactly as it should..eg as its set. For example on standard height the fronts are 113 and 105..but when i go to that height it sits at 111 and 107 respectively....Why ? Is this a clue. I always do the readings on the same floor same place.
On high its set to 136 and 128 but stops at 130 and 134.
The rears however are quite accurate.I have examined the height sensor I changed and resistance values seem good with no hiccups on movement .
 
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Busterthebulldog said:
I have the pc plugged in ...when I click go to a particular height it adjusts but not exactly as it should..eg as its set. For example on standard height the fronts are 113 and 105..but when i go to that height it sits at 111 and 107 respectively....Why ? Is this a clue. I always do the readings on the same floor same place.
On high its set to 136 and 128 but stops at 130 and 134.
The rears however are quite accurate.I have examined the height sensor I changed and resistance values seem good with no hiccups on movement .
Click to expand...
A live trace will ,prove nothing IMO, nor will pulling the relay.
Assuming that you have no leaks, go to the heights tab in the EAS software, read the number for the front left, measure the height from the wheel arch to ground, increase the number by 5 and watch to see if that corner lifts, re-measure to confirm it has lifted. Do the same for rear left, come back with the result.
 
Hi Datatek I have packed everything away now so will do as you said tomorrow.
I have spent all day rechecking and fettling...I set out new extremely precise floor levels and made up a new set of blocks and remeasured and adjusted every level again. I both measured and used spirit levels as reference...test drove it leaned left again. I then changed the right hand front sensor remeasured and set it all up again...seemed ok on test drive parked in garage....leaning again. So so far I have got nowhere after many hours of trying. One thing I have noticed is regardless of how its sitting as soon as the key is turned off the front drops further still. Just to check again I have left it overnight on full elevation with doors open to see if it drops at all. Enough for tonight its worn me out. Thanks for the help all.
 
Datatek . I have not done the +5check as yet but what I have done today is check both footwell side connections and clean. No obvious issues noted . I then decided to replace the valve block and driver . No difference she still has the lean. I drove to Cardiff this morning approx 20miles, before replacing the block it drove lovely no lean and extremely quiet. The return journey she had the lean from the off and all the way home and parked up. Where do I look next ? Replace the ride height ecu seems the next obvious thing to me.
 
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Busterthebulldog said:
Datatek . I have not done the +5check as yet but what I have done today is check both footwell side connections and clean. No obvious issues noted . I then decided to replace the valve block and driver . No difference she still has the lean. I drove to Cardiff this morning approx 20miles, before replacing the block it drove lovely no lean and extremely quiet. The return journey she had the lean from the off and all the way home and parked up. Where do I look next ? Replace the ride height ecu seems the next obvious thing to me.
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To me the next obvious step is to check the correct corner moves when instructed to.
EAS ECU failure is pretty rare but not impossible.
 
I have checked that each corner does as asked which it does. Sometimes the car drives fine sometimes not its very random. I figured try a different ecu if only to rule it out. The thing is it doesnt always go to the preset heights even on command so I am guessing it could be an ecu issue. Google is bringing up next to nothing.
 
Not going to height sounds like weak compressor (but you've already checked that) or possibly driver pack. I guess it is even possible a solenoid is sticky.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Not going to height sounds like weak compressor (but you've already checked that) or possibly driver pack. I guess it is even possible a solenoid is sticky.
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To clarify...not always going to designated height when instructed via software.The compressor is fine its gets the system up to pressure very quickly. I replaced both the valve block complete with solonoids and the driver pack and the fault remains identical. I am basically stuck now unless anyone else has a suggestion.
 
Hi, as Datatek says ECU failure is very rare but I did suffer from that, my Rangie was doing all sorts of weird stuff and took me months to finally get sorted as it did turn out to be the ECU, I have a spare if you would like to try it on yours but you will have to recalibrate all your heights once swapped over as the settings will be out of whack. Let me know if you would like to try and I will post it up to you.
 
Hi , I totally agree with you about the ecu rarely being at fault but I feel I need to swap it just to rule it out. Chances are its original so 14 years old and 120k miles must take its toll. I would like to take you up on your offer if thats ok. I will pm you my address. Is the ecu you have the rqt100040 ? Thanks stu.
 
Busterthebulldog said:
Hi , I totally agree with you about the ecu rarely being at fault but I feel I need to swap it just to rule it out. Chances are its original so 14 years old and 120k miles must take its toll. I would like to take you up on your offer if thats ok. I will pm you my address. Is the ecu you have the rqt100040 ? Thanks stu.
Click to expand...
Certainly worth swapping the ECU to prove it one way or the other.
 
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