Disco 2 Air suspension dropping after being replaced

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Larry365

Larry365

Active Member
Posts
558
Location
Lincolnshire, UK
My 2004 Disco 2 is dropping on the passenger side when parked. It will sometimes go days without going down, then other times several times a day and so far twice while driving.

I have replaced the valve block, sensor and airbag on the side that is dropping but this has not fixed the issue. I have checked the pipe for leaks using soapy water, moving the pipe around to expose any closed leaks... nothing.

I haven't replaced the airbag on the "good side", nor the sensor. It's on my to do list but can't see how it will help the current issue.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I am going to swap the pipes over on the valve block this afternoon and report back. I know this will confuse the system but I wont be driving anywhere, but it will help rule out the block itself.

Cheers
 
To rule out a management issue unplug both air supply valves and the compressor and drive it so, if it will drop this way too it's certainly a leak somewhere... you'll get the SLS fault warning but if it's not a leak it must stay on level for many days this way just that it acts as on coils...or if you dont drive it and it's in a safe place disconnect the battery and the management will rest this way cos otherwise it's active for up to 1.5 hours after the ignition was off
 
sierrafery said:
To rule out a management issue unplug both air supply valves and the compressor and drive it so, if it will drop this way too it's certainly a leak somewhere... you'll get the SLS fault warning but if it's not a leak it must stay on level for many days this way just that it acts as on coils...or if you dont drive it and it's in a safe place disconnect the battery and the management will rest this way cos otherwise it's active for up to 1.5 hours after the ignition was off
Click to expand...

Good information. Will try this first. Thanks.
 
sierrafery said:
To rule out a management issue unplug both air supply valves and the compressor.....nnect the battery and the management will rest this way cos otherwise it's active for up to 1.5 hours after the ignition was off
Click to expand...

Ok so I finally got round to disconnecting as you suggested and it went down on its usual spot on the driveway. As far as I know, the only thing left to replace is the piping and a cylinder that the pipes pass through.
 
You should use soapy water to identify the leak, make sure it's not at a bag's push-fit connector or it can be at a valve's connection cos the voss connector's o-rings can leak if they were disturbed
 
sierrafery said:
You should use soapy water to identify the leak, make sure it's not at a bag's push-fit connector or it can be at a valve's connection cos the voss connector's o-rings can leak if they were disturbed
Click to expand...

hope u don't mind me asking ref those voss connectors

when i fitted a front valve block they came with those , didn't like messing around with the olives etc

so took them all out and fitted pushfit fittings, seemed considerably better

as i've been learning about air suspension i assume the fittings have to deal with pressure and vacuum

so do u prefer the voss or pushfit when it comes to the suspension

have bought a new air tank and reservoir valve and thinking of doing the same in removing the voss connectors and replacing with pushfit
 
sierrafery said:
IMO any connector is good as long as it's air tight, the push fit is easyer to use that's all

it's only about pressure, no vacuum involved
Click to expand...

thks, i knew that u would know concerning this and appreciate the reply

useto be a heating engineer and know that using a nut and olive system can be a problem

considering they don't like being moved

where as with a push fit it allows for plenty of movement without allowing any form of leak

done extensive underfloor heating systems in the past , some came with nut and olive , with the vibration of the pump u could put money on it they would leak

found the pushfit considerably easier to use and a lot better in not allowing any leaking

thks again
 
Going back to the original post, there are a couple of things I would have done before I got into the intricacies of Voss connectors.
First, it's good practice to change both air bags at the same time, irrespective of which side seems to be causing problems.
Secondly, if the replacement bags are the Dunlop ones then they will have push fittings on them. These are a well accepted method of connection but when assembling, the pipe must be cut absolutely square on the end with something like a "Stanley knife", making sure that when it is cut the pipe isn't crushed or otherwise deformed and the first say half inch of the pipe is absolutely clean, without burrs or scratches.
The pipe should be pushed fully home without using pliers which could cause damage. The joint should seal at the first inflation.
 
brian47 said:
Going back to the original post, there are a couple of things I would have done before I got into the intricacies of Voss connectors.
First, it's good practice to change both air bags at the same time, irrespective of which side seems to be causing problems.
Secondly, if the replacement bags are the Dunlop ones then they will have push fittings on them. These are a well accepted method of connection but when assembling, the pipe must be cut absolutely square on the end with something like a "Stanley knife", making sure that when it is cut the pipe isn't crushed or otherwise deformed and the first say half inch of the pipe is absolutely clean, without burrs or scratches.
The pipe should be pushed fully home without using pliers which could cause damage. The joint should seal at the first inflation.
Click to expand...

do u ever find applying some silicone grease onto the fitting helps, preventing the o ring from being accidentally pushed in

couldnt agree more ref cutting the pipe square , i've always used some plastic pipe cutters
 
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