P38A Air con thoughts.

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Had another general thought on a completely different subject whilst waiting for the Doris to come out of work.
When I go to crank the starter (diesel) there is a small delay, less than a second before the starter spins. Normal? Always been like this, starts instantly hot or cold though.
Not particularly worried just wondered if they all do it.
 
My simple approach: my p38 air-con was not working, so firstly I connected the two wires that go into the compressor clutch to 12v (small motorcycle battery). That caused the clutch to click, so at that point it got it re-gassed and leak tested at our local garage. They also put UV dye in the system. It then worked OK for about a month but stopped. A UV check showed big leakage where the in-out pipes join the compressor. So I had those joints sealed (new pale green O-rings) and another re-gas. Seems OK now. When you set the temperature to lowest, the compressor clutch clicks in and the end plate of the pulley spins. The compressor i/o pipes very quickly feel warm (thinner pipe) and cold (fatter pipe). It's a 1997 P38 with about 90k miles.
 
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Forgot about this thread:oops:.
The clutch does pull in when I put 12v direct to it. Booked in at kwikfit this Monday morning coming, see what happenso_O.
 
So just found out that my air con fans are not working at all, any ideas as to what it could be,checked out all fuses and relays but still nothing, help I'm melting. LOL.
 
Datatek said:
Pleased to have aircon here today, it's now 36C and still rising, lovely and cool in the P38 for a quick food shopping trip.:D
Click to expand...
I was out yesterday in her at 26 deg and it was very unpleasant in traffic, acceptable on the open road doing 50+ with all windows and the sun roof open. It's what spurred me on to book her in at kwikfit. Dropping down to 14 deg from Monday :rolleyes:
 
Flossie said:
You can put 12v direct to them to test if they actually work. Grill out and the two plugs are there.
Click to expand...
The only problem with that is trying to get off the light guards as these are rusted into place with the hex screws as fitted by the original 1st buyer so to get them off will be a drill out job, or I could try and access them from underneath to see if they power up.
 
J L Carr said:
The only problem with that is trying to get off the light guards as these are rusted into place with the hex screws as fitted by the original 1st buyer so to get them off will be a drill out job, or I could try and access them from underneath to see if they power up.
Click to expand...
Have you checked the relays? Fuses?
 
J L Carr said:
The only problem with that is trying to get off the light guards as these are rusted into place with the hex screws as fitted by the original 1st buyer so to get them off will be a drill out job, or I could try and access them from underneath to see if they power up.
Click to expand...
Bumper removed would help but that can be a struggle if it's not been off before. If the 2 multipoint bolts undo, that go into the chassis under the front, the rest is straightforward.
Probably be easier to bridge the relay(s) . Can't help where they are but probably in the under bonnet fusebox at a guess.
 
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