Advice Please! Brake pipe replacement in morning!

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Colin from Hull

Active Member
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299
Hi, Driving home tonight, alarm came up, "Low Brake Fluid", when i investigated, i had fluid dripping from just in front of offside rear wheel. I havent looked any further into it yet, so im guessing that i think a brake pipe has been rubbing some were around that area. Is the brake in one lenght from reservior to the flexi-pipe at the offside rear wheel. Any advice on location of conections would help getting the pipe off quicker so i can get a replacement tomorrow before 12.00. cheers Colin
 
Colin its best you look first and see it might just need a nip up for all you know m8, not sure if they are standard fittings, but they probably are, so any automotive parts supplier will do to get the parts

But bleed it as well you could have some air in the system now
 
Any use....?

As attached
 

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Colin from Hull said:
Hi, Driving home tonight, alarm came up, "Low Brake Fluid", when i investigated, i had fluid dripping from just in front of offside rear wheel. I havent looked any further into it yet, so im guessing that i think a brake pipe has been rubbing some were around that area. Is the brake in one lenght from reservior to the flexi-pipe at the offside rear wheel. Any advice on location of conections would help getting the pipe off quicker so i can get a replacement tomorrow before 12.00. cheers Colin
Click to expand...

There are 2 connectors at the point where the pipes leave the engine bay. Removing the inside wheel arch will give you decent access to them. When i did mine I ran the new pipes from this point back however there is no reason not to create your own disco nnect further back. The point where the plastic coating stops would be ideal.

On mine (`97) there were 2 flexible hoses on each side. I missed one when i did mine and had to pause the job for week waiting on them being delivered. Overall replacing the pipes is easy but very dirty. A good pair of safety goggles is a must. But as Dopey days it might be a connector just needing nipped up a bit.
 
Hi, Been out this morning, finally found were the leak was coming from (the pipe which turns and goes underneath pertol tank towards nearside wheel) i would say all my pipes need replacing around my offsde wheel and connect part way towards the front as previous replies suggest. Any advice where to get parts or maybe full P38 kit. Also how would i flare the end of pipe which would still be on the car? The tooling used to make brake pipes off the car could be to awkward! I would need to buy this tooling! Advice please could save me time! Colin (thanks for your help)
 
You can get a flaring kit for not much money. Doing it on the car and using female/female joints can be done. But be aware the cheaper flaring kits can struggle with the steel pipes fitted to the car as standard. You will have to clean pipes and make sure tool has a good grip before trying to flare them.
 
You can get the 3/16" o.d. copper pipe and nuts from Ebay, the nuts are M10 X 1.00mm pitch.
Personally, I would remove the pipes from the car and bend the new ones to suit using a small hand bender....less chance of kinking and gives tighter, neater bends.
As previously posted, the connectors are behind the front r.h. wheel arch mudshield, on top of the rising section of the chassis, you will probably find that the pipes that run from the connector to the master cylinder etc. are fine.
You will also see (Just about) that the pipes run across the front of the fuel tank, they are almost hidden from view but if you give them a pull they will unclip...no need to drop or remove the tank.
Basic flaring kits work fine on copper and cupro nickel, have a practice first before starting properly. I find that a pipe protrusion of around 3-4mm above the clamp is o.k.
Finally, don't forget to slide the nuts on the pipe (Right way round !!) before you flare the ends.
 
Hi, Thanks everyone for replies!!!!!!!!! Just had a bite to eat, came back out, and my rear suspend has dropped to the bump stops front still on high setting, Had bonnet and boot open.Started engine thinking it should lift rear up, but nothing doing,dashboard showing all four light flashing, then all just stay on. Cant really do much with suspension low down. How do i get back up and kept it there until i finish my pipes? Colin
 
Jack up and support the rear chassis....

Don'tjack to far so as to lift the rear axle, as the height sensors don't like being taken to the limits of travel....

If you have to jack up further, put some straps round the rear axle and attach to the chassis to stop it from fully extending....

Obviously the airbags have no air in, so not sure how this jacking will effect them as you will in effect be trying to stretch them which will reduce the internal pressure....you could remove the airpipe to allow them to expand and collapse, but on the rears they can be a pain to get too....

Ideas anyone??
 
Saint.V8 said:
Jack up and support the rear chassis....

Don'tjack to far so as to lift the rear axle, as the height sensors don't like being taken to the limits of travel....

If you have to jack up further, put some straps round the rear axle and attach to the chassis to stop it from fully extending....

Obviously the airbags have no air in, so not sure how this jacking will effect them as you will in effect be trying to stretch them which will reduce the internal pressure....you could remove the airpipe to allow them to expand and collapse, but on the rears they can be a pain to get too....

Ideas anyone??
Click to expand...


:behindsofa:

Disconnect under the bonnet at the valve block instead ?????...Easier to get to.:bolt:
 
From memory, I think Colin has a Rovacomlite & software for the P38. I would start by checking, clearing any EAS faults then if all is well, just send the car up to High and for safety, get some axle stands under the chassis/body.
 
Hi, Update!!! I have called it day for now, getting cold. Went back out and tried again to raise the car, it worked the only difference was that i sat inside while doing it. Its been a pain, even getting plastic fixings out (plastic wheel arches) then it took me ages to get my front wheel off, corroded on hub. Anyway got one of the long brake pipes off, and a small one going to the small flexi-pipe. I think i will maybe put more connection in, could make replcing them easier. Thanks again lads Colin
 
Saint.V8 said:
Jack up and support the rear chassis....

Don'tjack to far so as to lift the rear axle, as the height sensors don't like being taken to the limits of travel....

If you have to jack up further, put some straps round the rear axle and attach to the chassis to stop it from fully extending....

Obviously the airbags have no air in, so not sure how this jacking will effect them as you will in effect be trying to stretch them which will reduce the internal pressure....you could remove the airpipe to allow them to expand and collapse, but on the rears they can be a pain to get too....

Ideas anyone??
Click to expand...

The shocks prevent the axle traveling far enough to damage the height sensors, what do you think happens when you jack it up to change a wheel? Equally, off road, if the axle could move far enough to damage the sensors they would be fubarred in no time flat:rolleyes:
 
Datatek said:
The shocks prevent the axle traveling far enough to damage the height sensors, what do you think happens when you jack it up to change a wheel? Equally, off road, if the axle could move far enough to damage the sensors they would be fubarred in no time flat:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
I either jack on the axle casing or the radius arm/shock mounting point....

re: Off roading....hadn't considered that!!:eek:
 
Hi, Update on replacing my brake pipes:- Well i lost time with weather Wednesday raining all day, the flaring tool i ordered off the internet was crap, in the end a mate had the good type from (machine mart, Laser £39.59) which also can be used on the car, to (re-flare ends) Got all pipes on, started bleeding, then relised had loads of leaks. Because it was the first time doing brake pipes, i didnt have enough copper sticking through the flaring tool to do a good big dome on the end of the pipe, so when i tighten my joints,my pipe was still loose.Got them sorted tonight, try bleeding again in morning. One other thing does any know what fuse does the dash-board lights? Colin
 
Colin from Hull said:
Hi, Update on replacing my brake pipes:- Well i lost time with weather Wednesday raining all day, the flaring tool i ordered off the internet was crap, in the end a mate had the good type from (machine mart, Laser £39.59) which also can be used on the car, to (re-flare ends) Got all pipes on, started bleeding, then relised had loads of leaks. Because it was the first time doing brake pipes, i didnt have enough copper sticking through the flaring tool to do a good big dome on the end of the pipe, so when i tighten my joints,my pipe was still loose.Got them sorted tonight, try bleeding again in morning. One other thing does any know what fuse does the dash-board lights? Colin
Click to expand...


Told you the cheap ones would struggle with steel pipes.
 
Colin from Hull said:
Hi, Update on replacing my brake pipes:- Well i lost time with weather Wednesday raining all day, the flaring tool i ordered off the internet was crap, in the end a mate had the good type from (machine mart, Laser £39.59) which also can be used on the car, to (re-flare ends) Got all pipes on, started bleeding, then relised had loads of leaks. Because it was the first time doing brake pipes, i didnt have enough copper sticking through the flaring tool to do a good big dome on the end of the pipe, so when i tighten my joints,my pipe was still loose.Got them sorted tonight, try bleeding again in morning. One other thing does any know what fuse does the dash-board lights? Colin
Click to expand...


To make a proper flare, you need an amount equal to the diameter of the pipe (in this case 3/16 or 4.8 mm) protruding above the face of the flaring tool.
 
Hi, Just to give you all the info, to get at the bleed nipples, (master cylinder and front and rear ABS), i released the fusebox, and header tank for more room to get a pipe on these nipples. When moving the fusebox i did hear the sound of a spark, something live touching earth for split second, the out come is that i have no dsah lights, my suspension came down, and my car will start but doesnt tick-over, cuts out unless i dip throttle! Colin:- "Thanks for all the replies"
 
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