Advice on painting

trax · Jan 21, 2014

MrNasty said:
Hi

I am in the process of re painting my Landy, I keyed up the wings, bulkhead and the rest of the front end with 800 grit paper, then primered and rubbed the primer back with 1200 grit wet and dry. The seat boxes and rear tub had been painted so many times previously i had to take the paint completely off and etch prime, wet sand and only now after starting at Xmas am i nearly ready to paint.

I used 800 grit for areas that just needed keying up
1200 wet and dry for de-nibbing the etch primer, 5 sheets
A MILLION, yes a MILLION velcro orbital 800 grit sanding pads
Paint stripper was a total failure as this new stuff works too slowly, so I found that a wire wheel attachment fitted to a 4 inch angle grinder takes the paint off back the ali without leaving score marks.
I will be painting it with a roller and once dry will cut it back with 2500 grit paper and then roller it again, done it before with satin paint and it should come out with little or no roller marks.

Rear Cross member I took it back to bare steel, red oxide primer, then the grey etch primer, and i will roller black Hammerite on it.

As for filler, I don't really have any dents as such, apart from the very bottom of the bulkhead near the door is a little pitted so I just used some fine filler and baked it on with a halogen lamp for an hour or so and then sprayed filler primer over that once sanded back, definitely use tack cloths and panel wipes and I use brake cleaner to clean off the panels before I apply any paint to them.
I am boring myself now, lol

imo,

don't use anything as fine as 1200 unless it's for finishing. You will muck up the paint adhesion.

stick to 600/800 for the paint layers.

once finished, use 1200/1500 then use a cutting compound like g3, if you want really shiney then you can use g10 at the end or go for a couple clear coats.

malashenko · Jan 21, 2014

defender11069 said:
done these 2 with a roller

Looks good mate, quick question though, how do you do the camo? I was wanting to do a standard mod vehicle with the Nato green base, and the black camo through it, like this

Roller seams like my best option, thanks a lot for the tips and info guys!

MrNasty · Jan 22, 2014

trax said:
imo,

don't use anything as fine as 1200 unless it's for finishing. You will muck up the paint adhesion.

stick to 600/800 for the paint layers.

once finished, use 1200/1500 then use a cutting compound like g3, if you want really shiney then you can use g10 at the end or go for a couple clear coats.

I've never had an issue with paint adhesion before, but I am just a bod that picked things up myself, 1200 is too fine for the etch primer eh? I have been primering with etch primer which has a really rough finish, going over it lightly with 1000/1200 and then adding another layer of etch primer which then comes out way smoother. But if that's no good I can primer it again and rub down with 800 if that gives better adhesion. I then use 2500 really lightly over the finishing coat to gently diffuse the roller marks, then re-apply another coat of satin.

fergus123 · Jan 22, 2014

note , if you are getting a compressor, you will need, a water trap, in line regulator, hose decent spray gun, respirator, one that is safe for use with isocyanides if you are using two pack paint

defender11069 · Jan 22, 2014

Ji just used roll to do black and brown I made it up as I went

trax · Jan 22, 2014

MrNasty said:
I've never had an issue with paint adhesion before, but I am just a bod that picked things up myself, 1200 is too fine for the etch primer eh? I have been primering with etch primer which has a really rough finish, going over it lightly with 1000/1200 and then adding another layer of etch primer which then comes out way smoother. But if that's no good I can primer it again and rub down with 800 if that gives better adhesion. I then use 2500 really lightly over the finishing coat to gently diffuse the roller marks, then re-apply another coat of satin.

That was just my opinion, I'm not a pro. I did do a car spraying course way back but that's probably old hat stuff now.

If it's adhering I wouldn't bother redoing it. Basically, you want to get the paint on smooth and even, so when you flat it at the end you don't go through the paint on high spots. But also giving a good key for the paint to adhere too.

If you have peel and lots of troughs left on the finish then sure 2500 wet it, you just want to get it as flat and even as possible without going through the paint. Then g3, use higher grit or polish depending on the finish required.

You can get a showroom mirror finish, but these are landies... i would probably see how the topcoat comes out and decide if it's worth doing. Mine gets scratched a fair bit

If i were you, I'd grab some scrap metal (or pick a door) and try the different techniques until you get the finish you want.

Boris113 · Jan 22, 2014

A few years ago I did the 90 with matt nato green and a brush, it looked ok from a distance but the body had the texture of a ploughed field. Matt also holds dirt and oil whilst showing up scratches quite badly.

During the rebuild I decided to respray it properly which including the prep and buying the equipment cost under £300.

I used a the cheapest DA orbital sander available from Screwfix, starting with 80 grit and working down to 400 grit. If you have an old henry hoover then connect that to the dust extractor and it helps prevent the pads clogging up, along with reducing the dust.

A couple of cans of etch primer did the bare ally bits and then I sprayed Satin Nato with a decent gun. If I did it again, I would use a high build primer between the primer and nato, along with sanding lightly between coats but it still looks good. The compressor was a on special offer from Lidl for £100 and coped admirably, but fit a moisture trap because the direct drive compressors get hot, creating condensation in the air tank.

malashenko · Jan 22, 2014

Think I would be best going for roller, with the satin paint, and the lower grit paper, will try and pick it all up soon enough, just wondering if any of yous know if the generic landrover anti-corrosive primer would be suitable for a primer with the military paint, well, aespos from ebay? or does it matter?

timtheenchanteruk · Jan 22, 2014

surely if you want the authentic MOD look, just schlack it on with a brush, thats what the MOD seem to do anyway.

flat · Jan 22, 2014

timtheenchanteruk said:
surely if you want the authentic MOD look, just schlack it on with a brush, thats what the MOD seem to do anyway.

By brush you mean broom.

For the authentic affect do it in the ****ing rain with a disgruntled squaddy, don't use any masking tape either. If it don't move, paint it. If it does move paint it anyway.

trax · Jan 22, 2014

malashenko said:
Think I would be best going for roller, with the satin paint, and the lower grit paper, will try and pick it all up soon enough, just wondering if any of yous know if the generic landrover anti-corrosive primer would be suitable for a primer with the military paint, well, aespos from ebay? or does it matter?

as long as you don't go to bare metal then you don't need to prime unless the paint reacts with the old stuff, then you can use a bar coat.

malashenko · Jan 22, 2014

Well, I do have a couple disgruntled squaddys who are willing to help, although they dont know anything about how to do it really, one of them told me to just throw the can at it for a RAF effect, and it's always ****ing with rain where I live haha!

But I think I'll do it on a sunny day,and try to make it look fairly descent, I'm not going for a perfect maint job, dont mind at all really, it's going to be getting coated with mud off roading and such

I would rather take her down to bare metal, and get the anti corrosive primer on, especially for some of the stuff inside, like the benches, they are all rusty etc, was just going to use a black nato spray paint for them though plus, I already have a can of Landrover Anti Corrosive primer, so thought may as well since I have it

trax · Jan 22, 2014

malashenko said:
Well, I do have a couple disgruntled squaddys who are willing to help, although they dont know anything about how to do it really, one of them told me to just throw the can at it for a RAF effect, and it's always ****ing with rain where I live haha! But I think I'll do it on a sunny day,and try to make it look fairly descent, I'm not going for a perfect maint job, dont mind at all really, it's going to be getting coated with mud off roading and such

I would rather take her down to bare metal, and get the anti corrosive primer on, especially for some of the stuff inside, like the benches, they are all rusty etc, was just going to use a black nato spray paint for them though plus, I already have a can of Landrover Anti Corrosive primer, so thought may as well since I have it

yeah take it to metal for rust, but personally i'd leave good primer alone and test a section for reaction. have fun

Boris113 · Jan 23, 2014

flat said:
By brush you mean broom.

For the authentic affect do it in the ****ing rain with a disgruntled squaddy, don't use any masking tape either. If it don't move, paint it. If it does move paint it anyway.

If you don't have a broom to hand, the paint can also applied with a mop or even a dead cat (spear it with a stick to reach the middle of the roof).

Masking tape isn't required, cover lights and windows in grease, throw can of paint over vehicle, wait until it's dry and then pressure wash the grease off

Advice on painting

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