Advice on painting

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

malashenko

New Member
Posts
11
Location
Isle of Skye
Hello

I just picked up a bit of a beat up old ex-mod landy off ebay and she needs a re paint, a lot of it is different color, some faded, some normal, with a fair ammount of dents, and some rust/corrosion

I done a bit of searching, and from what I understand this is the procedure

Sand her down with 400 grit sandpaper, fill up the holes with body filler, treat rust and corosion with something like kurust or phosphoric acid, prime with anti corrosive primer, paint with mil vehicle paint from ebay, like aesops, I was planning on getting a compressor and paint gun as opposed to rolling

Is that the correct way, and any advice?

Many thanks in advance ;)
 
Hi

I am in the process of re painting my Landy, I keyed up the wings, bulkhead and the rest of the front end with 800 grit paper, then primered and rubbed the primer back with 1200 grit wet and dry. The seat boxes and rear tub had been painted so many times previously i had to take the paint completely off and etch prime, wet sand and only now after starting at Xmas am i nearly ready to paint.

I used 800 grit for areas that just needed keying up
1200 wet and dry for de-nibbing the etch primer, 5 sheets
A MILLION, yes a MILLION velcro orbital 800 grit sanding pads
Paint stripper was a total failure as this new stuff works too slowly, so I found that a wire wheel attachment fitted to a 4 inch angle grinder takes the paint off back the ali without leaving score marks.
I will be painting it with a roller and once dry will cut it back with 2500 grit paper and then roller it again, done it before with satin paint and it should come out with little or no roller marks.

Rear Cross member I took it back to bare steel, red oxide primer, then the grey etch primer, and i will roller black Hammerite on it.

As for filler, I don't really have any dents as such, apart from the very bottom of the bulkhead near the door is a little pitted so I just used some fine filler and baked it on with a halogen lamp for an hour or so and then sprayed filler primer over that once sanded back, definitely use tack cloths and panel wipes and I use brake cleaner to clean off the panels before I apply any paint to them.
I am boring myself now, lol
 
I heard with the roller it goes really bubbly and looks awful?

Also do you guys think Satin would still look authentic ex-mod? I was told matt isnt hard wearing at all

Thanks for the avdice :D
 
[MAP][/MAP]
I heard with the roller it goes really bubbly and looks awful?

Also do you guys think Satin would still look authentic ex-mod? I was told matt isnt hard wearing at all

Thanks for the avdice :D

Am sure I read in one of the landy mags about a bloke who rollered his d1 looked good after I suppose it's all about rubbing it down after :)
 
I dont thnik I would have the patience to roll, cant even roll paint in my house lol, thoughts on electric paint gun to save instead of buying a compressor etc?
 
Use a quality tight density foam roller, apply paint and then go over the area again once the paint starts to go tacky to work the bubbles out, put too much paint on and its a mess, I get aerosols mixed up to paint around door hinges, gaps between the wings, vent panels, windscreen hinge etc, as the roller just puts too much paint on those areas and you get runs, I think 2.5 litres of paint and 4 aerosols was £80 from Cromadex in Bury St Edmunds, its good paint, shame the staff are so miserable
 
Haha! That's always a good pro!

Would Matt paint be alright? Want the propper mil look, but heard loads of bad points, and do you think it could be done with a FERM Electric paint gun? On a tight budget sadly, the misses was ****ed enough that I bought a landrover haha!
 
I heard with the roller it goes really bubbly and looks awful?

Also do you guys think Satin would still look authentic ex-mod? I was told matt isnt hard wearing at all

Thanks for the avdice :D

yeah use satin, matt is great but marks easily and gets the dirt trapped in it, satin looks almost matt but easier to care for.

I used satin after talking to lots of ex-military landrover chaps about how to repaint etc, look for my 00KK53 thread for details
 
Hi mate, I am a decorator by trade buy I do the odd custom job on hot rodz and the likes as well.
For the filler, key the surface first if its a big'un. Do this by using a piece of 80 grit and only in the actual damage or else you will be sanding out the scratches for months!

You CAN roll a Landie, the trick is such- use a decent quality enamel or vehicle paint. You can get tiny rollers which we use to roll the corners of walls- bit specialist but the fewer bits you do using a paintbrush the better finish you will get. Use this for places you would use a brush to cut in the edges as much as possible. Get a decent set of roller sizes too.
Follow pretty much the advice given already- make sure you have an EVEN well prepped surface that is as clean as possible.
Dip your roller pretty well to start with, then roll it out in your paint tray until it produces an even layer about the same as you would see when rolling a wall.
Roll the Landie! Do a small bit at a time, say panel by panel, and once it is covered... keep rolling until the finish is even and smooth. It will take out most of the orange peel effect and will dry pretty smooth. If you want at the end, you can rub it down with a very fine grade paper and buff up using a mechanical buffing thingy... Or just buff up straight after the paint is dry. You may need more than one coat I would say aim for 2. You could even add a clear lacquer for extra paint work protection but this is something you really need a spray gun for to apply it properly although it does buff up better depends what finish you want.

IF you want to spray the car, a decent spray unit, hose, gun and accessories may cost you almost as much as a respray anyway. You could buy a miniature gun and compressor which people use for modelling (I use it for a variety of things) which comes up about £180- I think the company with the best deal is called the airbrush company or something similar. You get a compressor with tank, hose, gun and a set of paint carriers and different sized nozzles for under £200! Take you a while to get it done this way though and You would have to take care that the finish was even using such a small gun.
If this is the direction you want to go, again make sure you prep the car as best as possible, clean it 2/3 times using a tack cloth and pre-paint cleaning fluid. If you want to do the best job possible, either get it in your garage if it is big enough or erect one of those pop-up gazebos and cover the sides in clear plastic throw away dust sheets. Clean again and make sure the gazebo area is clean (you will look like a muppet doing this in your street!) you will need a few coats but the paint dries ready for a re-coat within minutes due to how thin the layers are.

If you need any advice etc drop me a PM. Oh a word on masking tape if you are going to use it- don't buy masking tape it is sh*t, buy LOW TACK TAPE or FROG TAPE, it is so much better, you don't get any runs under it and it gives a lovely clean paint edge. if you spray make sure you mask up as best you can, you may think the car is masked up well but the over-spray gets through every nook and cranny and then expands to 5 times its original volume to cover only the places where it is hardest to clean off!
 
Thanks for the tips! I think I'm going to go with the roller method, so should I give it a wash when its down to bare metal, with just a sponge and soem water, and then go over it with something like etech deep surface cleaner spray?

Thanks! :)
 
Yeah I would say go over it with a primer first, if you use a self-etching primer there would be no need to sand the bare metal surface, or you could just flat down the existing paint and go straight over in the primer. How many coats is up to you, if you are rolling it so long as you have a decent even coat just one should be plenty for a self-etch :) Make sure you post some pics when it is done!
Oh a cool Idea I forgot about before.... have you ever heard of plastidip? Its a rubber based paint, think you can get it in all different finishes but the bog standard stuff is a matt finish, best thing is, when you get bored of it, you can peel it off again :) I am told you can jet wash/ scratch it and it will stay on though... Not tried it on a car but I have seen it done and it looks cool!
 
I did 2 coats on my rollered landy. First one neat and rollered and rollered with good foam ones changing them regulalrly. I let it become 'tack dry' then rolled it again to flat it off. Let it dry a few hours in the sun and wet sanded it with really fine wet and dry then applied another coat that I *think* I diluted as 85/15 paint to thinners. I can't remember how much I thinned by though. I used white spirit to thin. Rollered thin coats a panel at a time and let it go tack dry again the rollered it off to flatten. Up close there is some orange peel but from half a metre away you can't see. Mine is a rough old army bus so it doesn't look weird
 
Back
Top