Ace valve block leaking

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landyboots

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Hi all.....Was just wondering if any of you nice people out there can advise me of the set up of the front end of the ace valve block. There was a post here years ago which had a schematic of the system in a link but can't seem to find it now. Mine is weeping at the flange that bolts the four pipes to the block and although only a weep for now, I would like to tackle it before it becomes a flood. Are the pipes trumpeted in the block and do they squeez up onto O-rings?.....Just want to be sure of what I am dealing with before I let them off.......

Thanks all.
 
pipes are just straight tube fitting through o ring pack they are held in by collets around a flare which is thin and most likely where leak is from
 
yes with the plate holding collets, if you undo the 2 nuts and prise plate back youll see where leak is could be seal pack but usually pipe, if you need info on changing pipe just ask
 
Don't waste your hard earned cash, Bin the lot and replace with traditional 100% reliable roll bars :)
 
robhew86 said:
Don't waste your hard earned cash, Bin the lot and replace with traditional 100% reliable roll bars :)
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Crossed my mind but I actually like the idea of the ACE system. At the time it was a revolution in the way big 4x4's handle and I love the confidence I have in my disco when I hit them A road hairpin bends at 50mph.....No panicky last second breaking manoeuvres.....That being said though, I will rip it right off if it goes into a total failure situation. Will be keeping a lookout for a rollbar kit at the right price :)
 
landyboots said:
At the time it was a revolution in the way big 4x4's handle and I love the confidence I have in my disco when I hit them A road hairpin bends at 50mph.....No panicky last second breaking manoeuvres.....
Click to expand...

Interesting! I used to think that, until I nearly crashed once as IMO you get no real "feedback" when cornering with the ACE, until the tyres physically loose traction when cornering HARD and then it's potentially too late with something the size/weight and where the centre of gravity is.
I was lucky, taught me a lesson. Was much happier with traditional roll bars on after, much more driver "feedback" IMO. :)
 
robhew86 said:
Don't waste your hard earned cash, Bin the lot and replace with traditional 100% reliable roll bars :)
Click to expand...

+ 1 - Its simply not worth the effort of fixing it.AND its another potential breakdown cause along with SLS,the cheap shi--y water sensor in the bottom of the fuel filter and a few other bits and pieces that can leave you stranded.
DII's need plenty of care and understanding to be reliable,anything that can be done to make them more solid has to be worth looking at now they are all at least 10 years old....
 
I drove both ACE and conventional, IMO its big difference, especially with a loaded roof rack in curves with some speed, if you want to make a serious job to convert it with new OE parts not some bodge the cost would be around 300 quid if you DIY... no leak fix will cost so much whatsoever, the difference between ACE and 'normal' is shown here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b4opZF1mDjM as about those who converted it and can't feel the difference is cos so is human nature, too few people will admit an involution created by themselves... it's named Cognitive Dissonance: The Engine of Self-justification:D:D ... i know, i've studied psychology some time ago(google the term out for more info if you want):lalala:
 
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I have to agree with you Sierra.....It is too complex and too well thought out a system to just be like standard anti-roll bars. I can see the potential for overconfidence and rolling the vehicle without the proper feel of what the vehicle is doing. But is it not the case that the reason a vehicle will roll is because the top heavy high centre of gravity body leans over and overcomes the downforce of the chassis and it's components/weight. And is it not the case that the ACE system is a pro-active system designed to intervene and not allow this to happen?......
 
the difference is shown in the attachments, it's a well engineered system and makes the difference IMO, everybody's choice what to do with it if it has a defect, bin it or fix it... i'll always fix it as long as i can afford especially that it was my option to buy a D2 with this enhancement and paid more for it being better equipped, i'm not up to pay even more to convert it when i could have bought a cheaper non-ACE one from the beginning:rolleyes:
 

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I'm not sure if the OP has a major leak or just a weeping pipe. Mine has had a slight moistness around the valve block that requires an occasional top up to the Ace resevoir.
Once you realize the high pressure that the ACE system runs at it becomes obvious that any leak would drain the system in no time at all. If its just a weeping joint then I would leave it alone.
 
ClassikFan said:
I'm not sure if the OP has a major leak or just a weeping pipe. Mine has had a slight moistness around the valve block that requires an occasional top up to the Ace resevoir.
Once you realize the high pressure that the ACE system runs at it becomes obvious that any leak would drain the system in no time at all. If its just a weeping joint then I would leave it alone.
Click to expand...

It's just a weep. It's at the flange face that clamps the 4 pipes to the valve block. I have to top up once a week. I know it's only small but it can only get worse so I would prefer to address it now. Looks like the seals I need are about £15 each so £60 and a bit of spannering should sort it :D
 
landyboots said:
It's just a weep. It's at the flange face that clamps the 4 pipes to the valve block. I have to top up once a week. I know it's only small but it can only get worse so I would prefer to address it now. Looks like the seals I need are about £15 each so £60 and a bit of spannering should sort it :D
Click to expand...

its usually pipes corroding on thinnest part the flare or poorly fitted seal ,and not as easy to reseal as you will find out
 
landyboots said:
Can pipes corrode in a watertight oil pressurized space???....I would be more inclined to think seals....
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whats water tight about front securing plate and collets,could be seals,especially if recently renewed,but in my experience pipe corrodes at its thinnest point the flares ,which are located in the holes in the securing plate nice little moisture traps
 
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