sandu
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so you mean to fabricate a solid-steel bar instead of actuator? right?
might be an idea of starting point in order to understand better the next steps wherever I try to get back the ACE or not
Disco 2 ACE removal
- Thread starter Salisburylander
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might be an idea of starting point in order to understand better the next steps wherever I try to get back the ACE or not
On a recent trip where there were D3’s, D4’s a Nissan, a Mitsubishi and a lifted D2. My D2 with ACE and a Jimmy were the only two that made it down with all four wheels on the ground. I haven’t driven a non ACE D2 for long enough to compare on road performance but it certainly is nice and floppy off road.
Not the best pic but you can make out the articulation. On 245/75/16, snorkel and a light bar, not other mods.
Not the best pic but you can make out the articulation. On 245/75/16, snorkel and a light bar, not other mods.
sierrafery
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I didnt mean solid bar instead of the actuator but a L shape bracket fitted beside it.... though any solution is good which makes that part where the actuator is to be solid if yo see what i mean
sandu
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Interceptorxj
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Capping the cylinder off whilst it is full of hydraulic oil makes it a solid cylinder, no need for any metal bracketry with the added bonus the cylindres are still there in place if you ever do decide to replace the system.
sandu
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that's the idea though, I have no oil in my system as I removed the pump temporarily after a blown pipe.
Interceptorxj
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Just fill the cylinder after you remove the pipes, use an oil can or similar.
sandu
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sierrafery
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Solid means ''locked bars" which should be close to how a classic ARB is which is one piece of metal.
you can eventually cut the pipes near the banjos, fill both sides with thick oil or thin grease(they are like syringe inside) then blank them... you can't fill the cylinders without banjo on them cos they are one piece with the banjos like in the pic, those two ports are not removable, to fill them as to not be air in them you need bleed nipples addapted to both sides to bleed, if there is no oil in them it's more complicated than making some brackets or those steel things you thought of... though as i said any improvisation which locks the actuators solid is acceptable
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Interceptorxj
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Yes that is exactly what I mean and yes they then work perfectly as I and others who have done this can verify. No need for bleed nipples or metal bracketry. I just used a couple of extra copper washers and the pipe caps already fitted. If you take the pipes off then fully screw the caps down you can see how many copper washers you will need. Fit the extra copper washers , fill with thin hydraulic oil or ACE fluid then tighten the caps back down.
EDIT: I used a nut big enough to go over the pipe fitting in place of the pipe banjo and sealed with a copper washer on each side of the nut as per photo.
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Interceptorxj
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But they stop all roll which means they are a lot stiffer when in locked mode
sierrafery
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how do you fill through that hole as to know there's no air left in that ''syringe"... cos if it is that thing is still ''floppy" not locked
Interceptorxj
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I would suggest just squirting it in with an oil can. When I did mine despite there being no fluid in the reservoir the cylinder was still full of fluid. as the pipes come upwards out of the cylinder so the oil in it can't escape uphill (unless the cylinder itself is fooked) , there may be a very small amount / a bubble or two of air but this will have no baring on the operation as a roll bar. The cylinder will still be 98% full and will not compress when capped off.
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Interceptorxj
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I have a few roundabouts on my commute and the cars in front are leaning, but my D2 is flat
How does the torsional stiffness of the ACE bar compare to that of the standard ARB? I would have thought that it was substantially stiffer to provide the flat cornering stance.
