Ace removal and conversion help please.....

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minilandie

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Our 1999 Disco diesel TD5 GS needs an ACE conversion due to pump frying due to leak a few days ago. My husband is happy to convert but needs to know what parts are needed. He initially said it would be an idler pulley and a non ace belt. Are the anti roll bars needed too? I'm sure they are but he didn't mention this. Are they easy t fit? Can anyone point me in the direction of a step by step guide for whole conversion please.
 
Anti roll bars and bushes
Drop links
Non ace pulley
Non ace belt.
Single reservoir
Delete with nanocom/Hawkeye/similar
I think that’s it?
 
OK so I'm wondering now if the ACE on my D2 Auto has been removed properly.. The pump has gone and a pully fitted in its place, pipes from the pump to the tank gone. the valve block is still fitted to the chassis with most of the steel pipe work.. what worries me is the actuator on the front OS is still present and connected, i presume to the anti roll bar, does this mean they have not converted to a normal anti roll bar and just left it or is this correct and they have added something else, I have looked on youtube and nothing to help

Nige
 
It seems that it was bodged only with the idler and the ACE anti roll system was left in place which is not OK, the cheap and easy version is to lock the actuators with fabricated brackets as to emulate the ACE's "locked bars" condition(something like in the attachment), or fit classic arb's
 

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minilandie said:
Our 1999 Disco diesel TD5 GS needs an ACE conversion due to pump frying due to leak a few days ago. My husband is happy to convert but needs to know what parts are needed. He initially said it would be an idler pulley and a non ace belt. Are the anti roll bars needed too? I'm sure they are but he didn't mention this. Are they easy t fit? Can anyone point me in the direction of a step by step guide for whole conversion please.
Click to expand...
A better solution would be to fix the ACE. It is a brilliant bit of kit and one of the best attributes of a D2.

Removing it is a lot of work and probably unlikely to work out much cheaper if at all. And you’ll end up with a vehicle that leans more and handles worse.
 
Easiest fix is another pump.

I am keeping my system going well as it makes my commute more fun.

I'll tell you how to fix, but no ideas how to remove
 
Thisbisba big decision for me.. funds are tight.. I know the valve block leaks but that may just need new connctors and seals.. the pipework I can see looks in good Nick bit the pump was removed so will have to fine a replacement.. Will work out how much that will all cost and way it up.
 
Nige4927 said:
Thisbisba big decision for me.. funds are tight.. I know the valve block leaks but that may just need new connctors and seals.. the pipework I can see looks in good Nick bit the pump was removed so will have to fine a replacement.. Will work out how much that will all cost and way it up.
Click to expand...
I've got a spare ace pump if your interested for £90+postage, certainly cheaper than a conversion kit, and cheaper than a new pump which is over £400
 
I've ran my Disco with only pulley and belt changed for more than 4 years. No anti roll bars fitted. No difference from working ACE.
 
sierrafery said:
Then IMO your ACE was not working at all :rolleyes:... or you drive it only on straight road with less than 20mph :confused:
Click to expand...
I am only giving my opinion based on my experience. I tried on various occasions to repair the ACE system as I like to retain factory systems. A friend who worked for LR and now has a LR business of his own advised me to do away with it and how to do it. As said, it drives fine. I don't disagree with your opinion, as its your opinion based on your experience.
 
Sorry. If a LR man told you to drive it in "floppy" status it's too bad(cos that's how it is with pump removed and unpressurised rams) ... a man trained by LR should have knew what ACE "floppy" means and that LR said in the owner's handbook to reduce speed in this situation:

"If the light shows AMBER (constant
illumination).
This indicates a system fault that will result in
reduced ACE performance but will not leave
the vehicle in a dangerous condition. You may
continue driving, but reduce speed, take
additional care, and consult a Land Rover
dealer at the earliest opportunity"

so there must be some difference even from LR point of view .... and i'm sure it is cos i felt how mine behaved when it lost pressure in the rams
 
I've found it quite scary to drive when the ACE fails and it just swings about, to the point I just slowly drove it home. Surely thats gotta be dangerous, and how does that even pass an MOT?
 
Mine was terrible when in locked bars mode. Had to drop a LOT of speed in corners, with ACE working I can out corner a friends hot hatch at legal speeds.

Luckily spare ECU under a tenner.

When I was frist bedding in the hydraulic conversion it occasionally dropped out, and then the handling was simply dangerous. SierraFery wil remember the issue, I had later block and earlier block did not work as well. Also under specified supply pipes, fixed both perfect.

ACE and decent tyres, pick on the sporty cars, brilliant fun. I have my own little fun route which would prove ACE beyond all doubt as it uses the anti roll in one bit and the articulation in another. Twisty B road followed by green lane, brilliant.

Feckenham and Astwood Bank, Astwood Lane one way, Crofts Lane and Poplar Lane return.
 
I don't remember saying my Disco is "floppy". It's not. I drive my kids to school in it and wouldn't do so if I thought it was unsafe. There is a difference from a locked system and a Depressurised system. I'm not going to get into the does and don't of ACE, but I will say keeping it is not the only answer. It cost me 60 quid to by pass mine. It drives fine.
 
MJI said:
Mine was terrible when in locked bars mode. Had to drop a LOT of speed in corners, with ACE working I can out corner a friends hot hatch at legal speeds.

Luckily spare ECU under a tenner.

When I was frist bedding in the hydraulic conversion it occasionally dropped out, and then the handling was simply dangerous. SierraFery wil remember the issue, I had later block and earlier block did not work as well. Also under specified supply pipes, fixed both perfect.

ACE and decent tyres, pick on the sporty cars, brilliant fun. I have my own little fun route which would prove ACE beyond all doubt as it uses the anti roll in one bit and the articulation in another. Twisty B road followed by green lane, brilliant.

Feckenham and Astwood Bank, Astwood Lane one way, Crofts Lane and Poplar Lane return.
Click to expand...
Stop making me jealous :p, I haven't had good working ACE since my first disco,. And now this one, it has ACE but it works like sh*t, well needs new drop links and bushes all round I think, something ain't right, one of those I'll get round to it jobs.
 
meego said:
I've ran my Disco with only pulley and belt changed for more than 4 years. No anti roll bars fitted. No difference from working ACE.
Click to expand...
If you couldn’t notice ACE not working then you can’t have driven with it working. It’s a night and day difference. Hell even driving with ACE working vs other cars that don’t have it at all is still hugely evident. A D2 with working ACE corners flatter and leans way less than a D4 does.
 
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