Freelander 2 (LR2) ABS too good

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Stv123 said:
Is the Haldex the same as the VCU? (hydraulic coupling)
Click to expand...
No. The VCU works by rotational difference between the two props. The props turn differing plates inside the VCU. The more the plates oppose... The greater the chance the VCU activats and stiffens, causing most of the power to transfer through it due to the sheering effect of the fluid inside.

The haldex is electrically operated to engage (connect) power from the prop shaft to the rear diff. It has an electrical pump and clutch like thing. Takes about 1/6th of a second to connect.
 
Hippo said:
The haldex is electrically operated to engage (connect) power from the prop shaft to the rear diff. It has an electrical pump and clutch like thing. Takes about 1/6th of a second to connect.
Click to expand...
The Haldex works like an electronically controlled clutch, which uses hydraulics to operate the clutch plates. It's not as fast or progressive as the VCU. But is more tolerant of different tyres being fitted, and can be locked up constantly if needed.
 
Nodge68 said:
The Haldex works like an electronically controlled clutch, which uses hydraulics to operate the clutch plates. It's not as fast or progressive as the VCU. But is more tolerant of different tyres being fitted, and can be locked up constantly if needed.
Click to expand...
The haldex locks in 150ms according to LR. That's quick enough for what we need. It can also vary the slip across itself depending on what its told to do.
 
Maybe yours has a fault I would get it checked out ..i remember on my FL1 when I had an intermittent faulty ABS sensor..the car/ABS would not let me brake...kept pulsing when no need to in dry conditions at not very fast speeds...it though the wheels were slipping but went...It was like you say the brakes just let go....quite scary.....
 
On a dry day do an emergency stop from 60mph to 0, on yer private country estate. It will do it in just under 4 seconds. If yer nervous of the speed then do it at 30 or 40 instead, first.

Also try the same on wet grass but at a lower of say 15 to 20mph if yer want to see more abs and traction control help.

That's how I test my brakes.
 
Nodge68 said:
What's the question? These are two different components, which are use to do a similar job.
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Sorry just wondering if the original poster got the solution to the ABS symptom mentioned right at the start.

I have a similar judder like symptom when braking but only when pulling into laybys on muddy country roads, slow speeds. Normal road surfaces are absolutely fine.
 
LEINGR said:
Sorry just wondering if the original poster got the solution to the ABS symptom mentioned right at the start.

I have a similar judder like symptom when braking but only when pulling into laybys on muddy country roads, slow speeds. Normal road surfaces are absolutely fine.
Click to expand...
ABS only comes in when grip is lost.
So if you are travelling too fast for the available grip, it will come in. Other factors can also cause early intervention of ABS, like odd tyres, or mismatched tyre pressures, as the system is dependent on speed signals from the wheels.
Sometimes the DSC can activate on a turn (the DSC light will illuminate), but this is normally due to the steering angle sensor being out of calibration, or bent suspension, odd tyres/ pressures or some other suspension geometry issue.
 
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