P38A ABS / TC lights, 'sticky' ?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Datatek said:
I suppose so, they used to use a Tapley meter on the P38 a few years back.
Click to expand...

Still do in the place i take mine to. I can remember slapping on and an apprentice Tapley meter and all, rolling down the centre isle of a coach i was testing in a very undignified manner. ;):D
 
TallPaulB said:
Okay, according to the diagnostics I have a 'pump pressure switch fault'

So, is that this doohickey?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Ro...-switch-1995-1996-1997-1998-2002/264104988645

Anything I should do before assuming it's faulty and replacing it?
Click to expand...
You can do a continuity check on the switch, pump the brake pedal 30 times to release pressure and check the switch is closed.
£70 for a USED switch? I seem to remember that SAAB use the same switch according to posts some time ago and a new one was cheaper than that.
 
Datatek said:
You can do a continuity check on the switch, pump the brake pedal 30 times to release pressure and check the switch is closed.
£70 for a USED switch? I seem to remember that SAAB use the same switch according to posts some time ago and a new one was cheaper than that.
Click to expand...

True.
 
Yeah, I don't have a lot of free time, or access to a drive / garage so the only way I can do anything on the car is by arranging an afternoon in advance to go over to my dad's and put it on his drive.

The upshot of that is I'd rather spend £70 and have more chance of sorting the issue in one trip than mess around with my multimeter in the dark (the only time I can get to it) halfway down my street which is generally as close as I can park to the house.

I'll check the current switch before pulling it, I just want a spare on hand so I can replace it if it is that.
 
TallPaulB said:
Yeah, I don't have a lot of free time, or access to a drive / garage so the only way I can do anything on the car is by arranging an afternoon in advance to go over to my dad's and put it on his drive.

The upshot of that is I'd rather spend £70 and have more chance of sorting the issue in one trip than mess around with my multimeter in the dark (the only time I can get to it) halfway down my street which is generally as close as I can park to the house.

I'll check the current switch before pulling it, I just want a spare on hand so I can replace it if it is that.
Click to expand...
How the rich live:rolleyes::D:D
 
TallPaulB said:
Yeah, I don't have a lot of free time, or access to a drive / garage so the only way I can do anything on the car is by arranging an afternoon in advance to go over to my dad's and put it on his drive.

The upshot of that is I'd rather spend £70 and have more chance of sorting the issue in one trip than mess around with my multimeter in the dark (the only time I can get to it) halfway down my street which is generally as close as I can park to the house.

I'll check the current switch before pulling it, I just want a spare on hand so I can replace it if it is that.
Click to expand...

Did unplugging it, using a bit of contact cleaner on plug and socket, then plugging in and out a few times to see if that sorts it not appeal to you?
 
That plug has a metal clip on it which looks like a bit of a pain to get at since the cables for my LPG installation run over the ABS pump....so I'll give it a go once I have a few hours, in daylight with the car on a drive.
 
Okay, after a couple of hours of checking continuity on each pin, checking earths and so on... It was the pressure switch. Took about 20 minutes to swap out, problem solved.
 
If we're doing useful info.....

Swapping the pressure switch is a doddle, and doesn't require bleeding the brakes (well, I didn't, your mileage may vary).

There's only a couple of complications. One is the pressure switch connector, there's a metal retaining spring clamp thing on it, you'll need to pry this up with a screwdriver or something.

The other complication is that the bracket holding up the fusebox is cunningly located exactly where you need to put a spanner to get on the pressure switch. So unbolt the fusebox, push it up out of the way, unbolt and remove the bracket and you can now get a (big) spanner on the pressure switch. It 'cracks' pretty easily (I did it with a set of pipe plier things since I didn't have a spanner big enough, so not much leverage required) and you can then unthread it with your fingers.
 
TallPaulB said:
If we're doing useful info.....

Swapping the pressure switch is a doddle, and doesn't require bleeding the brakes (well, I didn't, your mileage may vary).

There's only a couple of complications. One is the pressure switch connector, there's a metal retaining spring clamp thing on it, you'll need to pry this up with a screwdriver or something.

The other complication is that the bracket holding up the fusebox is cunningly located exactly where you need to put a spanner to get on the pressure switch. So unbolt the fusebox, push it up out of the way, unbolt and remove the bracket and you can now get a (big) spanner on the pressure switch. It 'cracks' pretty easily (I did it with a set of pipe plier things since I didn't have a spanner big enough, so not much leverage required) and you can then unthread it with your fingers.
Click to expand...
If you are moving the fuse box, might be safer to disconnect the battery first.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

O
03 L322 EAS ECU Can bus fault / ABS temp system deactivation
Replies
1
Views
589
oldradiotech
O
02Disco2
Disco 2 Abs & TC lights but no fault codes
Replies
1
Views
210
sierrafery
sierrafery
Dieselmec 42
Front abs kicking on
Replies
3
Views
465
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
p38DH
P38A Diagnostic device
Replies
8
Views
1K
p38DH
p38DH
I
L322 ABS query
Replies
0
Views
897
isamyku
I
Back
Top