Abs help please

No the wheel bearing was all good! It was the sensor that was the problem it was a quick (quick being taking off all the bits that you need to change the sensor (unless there is someone out there who knows how to change the sensor without taking the rest off first)) change and all sorted

Badger688 said:

No the wheel bearing was all good! It was the sensor that was the problem it was a quick (quick being taking off all the bits that you need to change the sensor (unless there is someone out there who knows how to change the sensor without taking the rest off first)) change and all sorted

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Lucky then! So often , apparently, changing the sensor doesn't work. Cheaper too! All good!

Hello again, bit of an update.

Finally got the shuttle valve repair kit and had it changed , cleared the codes and all was fine for a short while.

Firstly I noticed that from starting up the lights would all clear except for the ABS light which goes out after about 10 mph is reached, I cant ever remember this happening even when things were all good , Is this as it should be ?

And secondly all seems well until you the speed slows down virtually to as stop and braking at low speed then the three amigos light up again and a couple of times they seem to light up when hitting a pothole etc.

We topped up the brake fluid and bleed all the brakes and after the first couple of time the lights came on no faults were recorded . And the lights do now clear when the ignition is turned off and back on .

As always any help will be much appreciated

Cheers

Tom

Sukiemaxie said:

Firstly I noticed that from starting up the lights would all clear except for the ABS light which goes out after about 10 mph is reached, I cant ever remember this happening even when things were all good , Is this as it should be ?

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That's normal behaviour when there is a wheel speed sensor related fault code stored then cleared, see the last paragraph in the attachment

if the 3 amigos are reset by ignition and no ABS light alone it's some other code... and if you just simply replaced the SVS switch pack without doing the wiring mod it's possibly SVS related again Necessity of the mod = SVS fix(wiring mod option B) "graphic" explanation

Many thanks Sierrafery , is the modification very difficult to do as Ive seen a new svs with the modification done already on eBay for £85 just thinking should i just bite the bullet and get one thats already done and keep my new one as a spare ? Any thoughts

Cheers

Tom

It's not difficult once the switch pack is removed you have to cut the wires which are connected to the plug, prolonge them and connect one wire to earth and the other to the yellow/green wire to the side which goes into the loom, the other side which goes into the modulator's multiplug has to be cut and let free. as in the video but you dont need that plug connct the wires directly to earth and YG wire

Nice one
Do you think that the original one I took off would work with this mod or would the switches be knackered?

You can measure the switches with multimeter, the whole story attached, just IMO that additional connector on the SVS output white and red wires is futile

Hi again sierrafey,
I can’t open your attachment unfortunately. I did put my multimeter on the old switch though and I go a reading of :

3.018 with both valves left alone
2.020 with 1 valve depressed
2.016 with the other valve depressed
1.019 with both valves depressed
And this was with the multimeter set to ohms 6K ( if I’m right assuming the ohms symbol is the horseshoe).

I took her up the shops last night and I seem to be getting a lot more of that judder noise from the traction control now even pulling away normally , do you think this could be part of the same issue.

many thanks again

the readigs show that the switches are OK and the TC misbehaviour is caused by a missbalance between ABS sensor inputs... if a hub was changed recently with a cheap one it's possible to have the wrong number of teeth on the reluctor ring

Apologies Sierrafery
I just found that attachment in the files app on my iPad
I was thinking it could be that hub that’s just been changed , would that imbalance show any fault codes on Hawkeye ?

Usually no fault codes cos the sensor's resistance is within range so it passes the system self test but once the vehicle starts moving the speed input is different and the SLABS ECU considers that a wheel is spinning and TC kicks in. The market is full of low quality cheap hubs which have 50 or 55 teeth on the reluctor ring while the system was calibrated to work with 60

Can you recommend a good one thats not too expensive?

No i can't cos i fitted quite expensive ones on mine(borg & beck)

Stanleysteamer said:

lr-trade-parts-uk

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I bought one last year and it's been OK so far.

Many thanks for that ,

I think i need to get it changed as it’s getting worse, is it possible to count the teeth on the ring without taking the complete lot out again?

Sukiemaxie said:

Many thanks for that ,

I think i need to get it changed as it’s getting worse, is it possible to count the teeth on the ring without taking the complete lot out again?

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No is the short answer.
I'd read through to the end before doing anything!
Also, if you had the hub changed by anyone you paid to do it, then the fault lies with them. Whether the hub is a chepao one with wrong number of teeth or not.

To count the teeth you need to get the wheel, brake caliper, and brake disc offf and out of the way. Then, and this is the dodgy bit, take the sensor out. dodgy cos many think you cannot easily get it backinto place accurately to .5 mm again. (There are differing views on this, and methods for doing it.)
You should then be able to see the teeth, with a lot of effort and a torch probably.

Sukiemaxie said:

Was all fine for a few days but now

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This makes me think, as you said it was ok for a while, that the number of teeth may be OK. As the problem you now have should have shown up straight away, unless someone else knows why that wouldn't be the case.
BUT, as you have a fault, then it may be that somehow the sensor has come a bit loose OR the bearing is moving with the hub. If the hub was replaced with new then the hub bearing should be OK, but if there is movement due to the hub nut being loose or something then again this may show the same fault.
SO to count the teeth ,if you really want to do this, mark the hub as it would probably be difficult, and not a good idea, to try and mark an actual tooth.
Mark the axle next to the mark on the hub, or use a bit of wire wrapped around the axle with its tip pointing at the mark on the hub. Then turn the hub slowly counting the teeth as you go and stopping when you get to the mark again. As Sierra said, you should have 60.

But before doing all this, I would do the usual tests on the wheel to see if there is any movement AT ALL in the bearing. So, wheel up, hands at six and twelve o'clock, move up and down, see if you can feel play. Then same thing at 9 and 3 o'clock. But it IS said you may not be able to feel it and the sensor still can.
Warning. I had a similar problem and it turned out to be because the garage's diagnostic told them, and thus me, that there was a sensor fault in one wheel and in fact it turned out to be in the opposite wheel on the same axle.
But again, as you had no problems for a few days, I don't think it is this cos again the fault should have shown up straightaway.

So, to sum up, my money is on it being either the sensor has a fault, i.e in its position. It isn't faulty in itslef else the light would come on as soon as you put the ignition on. Or the hub is the right one but is now moving. It does take a heck of a lot of torque to do up the hub nut and then it should be staked. Maybe whoever did this, didn't manage to quite finish this off.

Many thanks Stanleysteamer great explanation a bit too much for me I think i better take her back to the chap who did the hub for me ,

Many thanks again

Sukiemaxie said:

Many thanks Stanleysteamer great explanation a bit too much for me I think i better take her back to the chap who did the hub for me ,

Many thanks again

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Quite agree, you need to get what you paid for, which I don't think you have.....yet!
Best of luck!

Hello again all,
Finally got it sorted , changed the wheel bearing for another new one and she has been as good as gold so far ( fingers crossed)
Anyway I just wanted to thank you all again for your help and suggestions.

All the best