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Put an additional earth in place, eg a jump lead to the engine
Make sure you don't leave any grit off the sandpaper
Make sure you don't leave any grit off the sandpaper
Put an additional earth in place, eg a jump lead to the engine
Make sure you don't leave any grit off the sandpaper
Still no progress on this annoyingly.
I've had a look at the body ground points in the engine bay (one under the fusebox/coolant reservoir, and the other on the opposite wing near the EAS unit)... both of these are fairly rusty and I believe the ABS system is grounded through these points.
I think I'll clean these up with some sandpaper just as cheap insurance.
Does anyone have any tips for doing this? I don't really like disconnecting the battery on my P38 as I end up needing to put the EKA code in which I feel is asking for trouble... Is it OK to disconnect and clean these ground points whilst the battery is installed? That also sounds like it's asking for trouble... not sure which is worse haha.
Thanks again
Turn off EKA and the immobiliser with Nanocom then you will have no more trouble when disconnecting the battery.Still no progress on this annoyingly.
I've had a look at the body ground points in the engine bay (one under the fusebox/coolant reservoir, and the other on the opposite wing near the EAS unit)... both of these are fairly rusty and I believe the ABS system is grounded through these points.
I think I'll clean these up with some sandpaper just as cheap insurance.
Does anyone have any tips for doing this? I don't really like disconnecting the battery on my P38 as I end up needing to put the EKA code in which I feel is asking for trouble... Is it OK to disconnect and clean these ground points whilst the battery is installed? That also sounds like it's asking for trouble... not sure which is worse haha.
Thanks again
Between battery negative and the engine block, you might have a convenient engine lift pointThanks kermit, do you mean from battery neg to the engine, or from the ground point connections to the engine, so that they're still connected to ground whilst I'm doing the cleaning/sanding?
Thanks
Yea that's it.. loosen the terminal first so it pops straight offPut the ignition on and off and disconnect the battery within 17 seconds? Is that right? Never had an issue with either of our two doing it that way but as said if you have the facility to turn it off I would
Put the ignition on and off and disconnect the battery within 17 seconds? Is that right? Never had an issue with either of our two doing it that way but as said if you have the facility to turn it off I would
Yea that's it.. loosen the terminal first so it pops straight off
But is the ABS fault fixed yet?
There could well be verdigris between the pins on the OBD connector causing the problem.I wouldn't say "fixed"...
I've sorted my leaking pollen filters out (took 3 attempts at sealing them but got there in the end)... Whilst I was sorting them I checked the OBD port out which I think you'd mentioned before, and water was actually dripping out of it after it had rained...
I started it up and tapped the OBD port and I could reliably trigger the ABS fault to pop up and beep on the dash...
Cleaned all the pins and dried it out thoroughly, but it still pops up with "abs fault" at ignition on. Maybe it needs clearing? Not sure how that works.
There could well be verdigris between the pins on the OBD connector causing the problem.
Well that sounds like a real result and it is also what I said in post #79 lol.Good point..
I cleaned each pin with a pick and wd-40 specialist contact cleaner and the intermittent issue has gone, it will only throw the abs fault message up on the dash once and then never again..
Is there an easy way to remove the pins from the OBD port so that I can ensure they are thoroughly cleaned?
If not I guess I could buy a new OBD socket and cut and re-pin..
Well that sounds like a real result and it is also what I said in post #79 lol.
Plus 1 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^New socket would probably be the way to go as if the pins are corroded they can snap easy.
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