Abs fault ( the lemon strikes again)

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kermit_rr said:
Sorry i was confused the number ending 501 i was thinking of is for the ecu, srd100501 which is the 4 wheel type
The actual modulator for 4 wheel TC i believe is sxc100000, at least mine is (2000/W reg)
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Tried the master cylinder bleed nipple again at lunchtime today and managed to get quite a decent amount of fluid out, so at least I know now that it will bleed.
 
I suspect the problem with repeated ABS sensor failure may be due to rust in the bush making the sensor and spring cage too tighter fit so that the sensor does not easily push back as it should. I had to hone the rust out of the bushes on both my P38's to get a good fit. I have had no secondary failures.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Yeah, we had someone on here who did that a few months back. They ignored it and then his brakes failed and he's lucky it was at a veey low speed. Took it back and they did it properly and all was well but it could have been a catastrophe.
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Managed to bleed the master cylinder today so at least I know I can bleed the system myself if needs be i.e. if the garage bloke declines the work ( he declined to do the head gasket on my other half's MGF a few years back, so I did it myself - ended up being a cracked liner so bottom end had to come off as well - also removed all 4 suspension spheres and sent them off to be refilled with nitrogen. Refitted them and re-filled system with hydrolastic fluid as it had been sitting on its arse for a few years.
 
Datatek said:
I suspect the problem with repeated ABS sensor failure may be due to rust in the bush making the sensor and spring cage too tighter fit so that the sensor does not easily push back as it should. I had to hone the rust out of the bushes on both my P38's to get a good fit. I have had no secondary failures.
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I had the hub carriers shotblasted when i did the balljoints, so the sensor bores were clear, at least before the shotblaster red leaded them lol. I then had to remove the primer from the bores with emery cloth back to bare metal to give sufficient clearance for the new sensors, before greasing the bores and sensors and fitting them. I still only have the garage's word that the new sensors that I fitted were way out of whack. The abs lights may have well been due to the modulator having air in it rather than faulty new sensors. Either that or the sensors were dodgy and the 2nd set of new ones cleared the lights, but the lights came on again 70 miles later due to the modulator issue. At the moment the lights self test and then go out, but pedal is still unreliable. Hopefully the brake fluid change will resolve it once and for all.
 
alanlucas said:
Managed to bleed the master cylinder today so at least I know I can bleed the system myself if needs be i.e. if the garage bloke declines the work ( he declined to do the head gasket on my other half's MGF a few years back, so I did it myself - ended up being a cracked liner so bottom end had to come off as well - also removed all 4 suspension spheres and sent them off to be refilled with nitrogen. Refitted them and re-filled system with hydrolastic fluid as it had been sitting on its arse for a few years.
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There's 3 bleed nipples, one is right under the bulkhead and really hard to see
 
kermit_rr said:
There's 3 bleed nipples, one is right under the bulkhead and really hard to see
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yes - the first you bleed is the master, then the front calipers, then the front booster with pump running, then the rear booster with pump running, then the rear calipers with pump running, then the front calipers again with pump running.
 

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  • ABS Brake Bleeding Procedure Range Rover 4.0_4.6.pdf
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alanlucas said:
yes - the first you bleed is the master, then the front calipers, then the front booster with pump running, then the rear booster with pump running, then the rear calipers with pump running, then the front calipers again with pump running.
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I'm not sure that's how I bled mine I'll have to check Rave on my other laptop, from memory the only time the ignition was switched on was to bleed the rears after doing all the rest with it off. I may be wrong,it has been known.;):D
 
I guess having the ignition on and the pump running means that you don't have to pump the brake pedal - just hold it to the floor. It pretty much bleeds itself - all you have to do is open and close a few nipples and press the pedal down at the appropriate time.
 
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alanlucas said:
yes - the first you bleed is the master, then the front calipers, then the front booster with pump running, then the rear booster with pump running, then the rear calipers with pump running, then the front calipers again with pump running.
Click to expand...

Cheers for posting the procedure up, printed of and added to the file for quicker reference:D
 
alanlucas said:
I guess having the ignition on and the pump running means that you don't have to pump the brake pedal - just hold it to the floor. It pretty much bleeds itself - all you have to do is open and close a few nipples and press the pedal down at the appropriate time.
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Read Rave and make sure you understand the whole procedure and follow it to the letter, including only using the lower two thirds of the brake travel and turning the ignition on for 4seconds and waiting for the abs pump to stop running.
 
tomcat59alan said:
I'm not sure that's how I bled mine I'll have to check Rave on my other laptop, from memory the only time the ignition was switched on was to bleed the rears after doing all the rest with it off. I may be wrong,it has been known.;):D
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You wrong . Never . Can't believe it of you Alan:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::D:D
 
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