P38A Abs ecu

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pete12345

pete12345

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Been on Tomlinson’s post about abs problems seem to both be getting same results for a cure does anyone know what the readings should be on the sensors pins that go into the ecu with ignition on or off or does the wheels have to be moving to get any sort of readings I’ve tested the big plug and all seems good there but nothing on the sensors small plug thanks for advice
 
They have a resistance of around 2kOhms but that doesn't seem to be a good test, though a short or open circuit is definitely bad.
The ecu sends a voltage to each sensor and measures the change, should be 2-2.4v i believe
 
AFAIK the sockets that the sensors plug into should all have 5.3v from the ECU across the 2 pins.
The Sensors themselves should have a resistance of around 1200 Ohms (well, all of mine do).
Stationary voltage readings of the sensors in Nanocom show 2.29 or 2.3V on my Rangie.
HTH.
 
All my sensors read that 2.30 on the nanocom Dan I’m talking about the small plug that goes into the ecu
 
Cleaned up the earth wires still no change just when switching off it says traction failure had binical out and checked all the bulbs all good at a loss now
 
pete12345 said:
Cleaned up the earth wires still no change just when switching off it says traction failure had binical out and checked all the bulbs all good at a loss now
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When it threw the TC message what was the battery voltage like?
Mine throws up ABS fault, TC fault & Gearbox fault whenever the battery volts are too low.
 
pete12345 said:
Cleaned up the earth wires still no change just when switching off it says traction failure had binical out and checked all the bulbs all good at a loss now
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I get traction failure when battery starts getting low. A decent run usually cures it. Battery terminals clean and OK?
 
Going to run it up the rd today see I’ve the abs is actually working or not with nanocom plugged in see I’ve I can get live data from the abs fingers crossed it may point me in the right direction once I work out how to record it
 
pete12345 said:
Going to run it up the rd today see I’ve the abs is actually working or not with nanocom plugged in see I’ve I can get live data from the abs fingers crossed it may point me in the right direction once I work out how to record it
Click to expand...
Your can only get live data while the ecu is in diag mode, so you'll need to travel at idle speed
 
Tried recording that didn’t work but took car for a short run and abs seems to be working ok so any suggestions be helpful now thanks in advance
 
pete12345 said:
Tried recording that didn’t work but took car for a short run and abs seems to be working ok so any suggestions be helpful now thanks in advance
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If it's working, it's just the message on the dash? Unplug the dash and plug it back in, bad connection? You've checked the other plugs?
 
I’ve done the dash aswell I’m thinking would it be worth getting another ecu to make sure it’s not that but it’s reading the ecu
 
I’ve just checked the ecu again on a different page for brake switches & pressure switches vehicle stationary brake switches change from closed to open on pressing the brake but the pressure switches stay closed all the time even when I’m driving slowly and applying the brake could anybody tell me when the pressure switches should go to the open position and could it be the abs traction control problems I’m getting related
 
If the brakes and the ABS are working and with no faults recorded, I', pretty certain that it will come down to a BECM related problem, either comms from the ABS ECU or perhaps something within the BECM. I'd start by checking the wiring from the ABS ECU to the BECM
 
pete12345 said:
I’ve just checked the ecu again on a different page for brake switches & pressure switches vehicle stationary brake switches change from closed to open on pressing the brake but the pressure switches stay closed all the time even when I’m driving slowly and applying the brake could anybody tell me when the pressure switches should go to the open position and could it be the abs traction control problems I’m getting related
Click to expand...
The contact opening/closing pressures are in RAVE.
 
Found an old post not sure I’ve on here or another one now but it said I’ve you jump the connector from the abs pressure switch black& yellow wire to the neg on battery and the pump runs then the pressure switch is knacked can anyone throw light on this
 
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