P38A ABS and Traction Problems

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How cheap is your ECU if I do end up needing one ?! ;)
I was going to stick it on the bay for £130 (what i paid for it). £100 for members on here though. Otherwise it will join the growing P38 parts bin. Your welcome to try it first to see if your ECU is the problem.
 
Thats very kind of you mate, I shall bear it in mind. I'm going to try and do a bit of testing first as its basically free. First job is to remove my ECU and look for any water ingress or damage to the pins. I'll try and slip over to dads one afternoon and get a meter on it.
At the risk of lazyness, is there anything to stop me leaving the sensors connected and testing to see if there is a difference on the meter between the rear right (working apparently) and rear left? As surely they should offer the same results if they both work. If they both offer the same that absolves the wiring and sensors?
 
No problem.
I can't see an issue with leaving the sensors connected to test them. Just thought if you could remove them easily enough you could swap rear right to rear left to see if the fault follows. Easier said than done though as i had to drill out my front right sensor after 13 years of rust taken hold
 
I do have a slight other problem now with removing wheels at the moment, dear old dad trying to help the other day didnt get the locking wheel nut on square and stood on the brace and has managed to snap a pin out of the locking wheel nut tool and damage the wheel nut so I'm awaiting delivery of a set new lockers to replace them... It never rains! Will do my diagnostics hopefully over the next couple of days and keep you posted!
 
Well it's much better than a new one which are as much as 900 I have found new for around £300 though
Imagine my disappointment when seeing loads of old type ECU's on the bay for £15 - £30, then realising it was changed to the new one from '99 & nearly 10 times the price.
 
Imagine my disappointment when seeing loads of old type ECU's on the bay for £15 - £30, then realising it was changed to the new one from '99 & nearly 10 times the price.

Be happy you are not buying a new 2 wheel traction control unit. SRD100501 4 wheel traction control ECU £856.68. ANR4898 2 wheel traction control ECU £1191.89. :D:D
 
Aye seen that I just wondered if they were from Land Rover prices. I did find new on eBay for about £300 for an srd100501. Hopefully spare bulbs for cluster coming tomorrow so will try and get that out and see how many are missing!
 
Just to be clear, you've tested the sensor for resistance and you've checked continuity from the connector that goes into the ECU and the sensor and all is good?
 
Just to be clear, you've tested the sensor for resistance and you've checked continuity from the connector that goes into the ECU and the sensor and all is good?

Not yet, that's on the to do list! I need to get a few minutes in the day light when it isnt raining to do some further testing.
 
Not yet, that's on the to do list! I need to get a few minutes in the day light when it isnt raining to do some further testing.
You had better move South, Wammers and I had a drink on the patio today, I was in my budgie smugglers and he was in his mankini. Mozz didn't turn up in his thong, he said it was to hot for him.;):D:D
 
You had better move South, Wammers and I had a drink on the patio today, I was in my budgie smugglers and he was in his mankini. Mozz didn't turn up in his thong, he said it was to hot for him.;):D:D
To be fair its been a nice day! I managed to get 5 minutes to fit my replacement sat nav computer. However, family duties called and we decided to go for a walk and then to the shops with out little 5 month old. I was also "working" - overtime to feed the P38's thirst for bits! :D
 
For checking the sensor unplugging it and checking for resistance through it is the only way of testing them, you will not get a continuity reading through the sensor. With meter set at 2K you should get around 920 OHMS which should change as metal is moved across close to sensor tip. No resistance reading and the sensor is open circuit and will never work.

OK. Finally got a few minutes to nip out the with the meter. I decided to go for the jugular and pulled C505 from the ABS ecu and tested pins 3+6 and 7+8 one gave me 898ohms and the other 937ohms. I also tested my "spare" wabco sensor which also showed me about 900 cant just remember of the top of my head.

The pins in the connector and in the ecu looked clean as a whistle and could have been fitted yesterday. (In all fairness I was expecting it to be damp and corroded etc) so I think that shows that the sensors and the wiring is all intact and functioning as intended. I've got in touch with a chap I know with a very similar P38 (my old one actually) and hes happy for me to try his ECU to see what happens and if that improves things.

Fingers crossed!
 
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