AAP sensor and rough idle

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
It was below zero C over night. when i started in the morning it started lumping a little after 30 sek of normal idle. Then I took it for a ride and whith a slight warm up it ran normal again. sometimes when I come to a stop it searches for the idle but basically It runs great. It has slight uneven noise during idle. Will look into that if that is normal TD5 sound or not.
 
Good morning Bobber :).

Funny, I am having exactly the same problem as yourself, with my TD5. (2003).

I have just about done everything, including a new AMC head, and all the other things that could be the cause, as you mentioned, except for a new FPR, but other than that, it looks like a re-map.......

I have had this vehicle from new, and it started after having done the injector washers and
Oooooh rings, at 87.000 (ish) kms. :rolleyes:

Have you "cured" yours, and if so, what did you do in the end ?? :D

As I see Sierrafery has been most informative and helpful on this....:)

I have a Hawkeye Total, not a Nanocom..... it may be that I have to purchase one of those,
rather than concede defeat and take it to our local Landrover stealer....(who seem to know
SFA about TD5's)!!

Be great if you could let me know....

Many thanks :)
 
Hello NZ,

To be honest. The idle is still uneven. Remapping to the latest released map made it less. I have just learned to live with it more or less. Runs great otherwise and fuel economy is good. I have also replaced the the MAF after only getting max 300 in airflow and now able to hit close to 600. Also tested fuel pressure and it holds 4bar on idle and revving. On top of all else, head gasket, inlet manifold cleanup, inlet gasket, intercooler cleanup and tried a few rounds with new injector washers and orings with no difference. So I am sorry, I cannot tell you how to completely cure it. Might be a mapping issues all together.
 
northernbobber said:
Hello NZ,

To be honest. The idle is still uneven. Remapping to the latest released map made it less. I have just learned to live with it more or less. Runs great otherwise and fuel economy is good. I have also replaced the the MAF after only getting max 300 in airflow and now able to hit close to 600. Also tested fuel pressure and it holds 4bar on idle and revving. On top of all else, head gasket, inlet manifold cleanup, inlet gasket, intercooler cleanup and tried a few rounds with new injector washers and orings with no difference. So I am sorry, I cannot tell you how to completely cure it. Might be a mapping issues all together.
Click to expand...

northernbobber said:
Hello NZ,

To be honest. The idle is still uneven. Remapping to the latest released map made it less. I have just learned to live with it more or less. Runs great otherwise and fuel economy is good. I have also replaced the the MAF after only getting max 300 in airflow and now able to hit close to 600. Also tested fuel pressure and it holds 4bar on idle and revving. On top of all else, head gasket, inlet manifold cleanup, inlet gasket, intercooler cleanup and tried a few rounds with new injector washers and orings with no difference. So I am sorry, I cannot tell you how to completely cure it. Might be a mapping issues all together.
Click to expand...
northernbobber said:
Hello NZ,
northernbobber said:
Hello NZ,

To be honest. The idle is still uneven. Remapping to the latest released map made it less. I have just learned to live with it more or less. Runs great otherwise and fuel economy is good. I have also replaced the the MAF after only getting max 300 in airflow and now able to hit close to 600. Also tested fuel pressure and it holds 4bar on idle and revving. On top of all else, head gasket, inlet manifold cleanup, inlet gasket, intercooler cleanup and tried a few rounds with new injector washers and orings with no difference. So I am sorry, I cannot tell you how to completely cure it. Might be a mapping issues all together.
Click to expand...


To be honest. The idle is still uneven. Remapping to the latest released map made it less. I have just learned to live with it more or less. Runs great otherwise and fuel economy is good. I have also replaced the the MAF after only getting max 300 in airflow and now able to hit close to 600. Also tested fuel pressure and it holds 4bar on idle and revving. On top of all else, head gasket, inlet manifold cleanup, inlet gasket, intercooler cleanup and tried a few rounds with new injector washers and orings with no difference. So I am sorry, I cannot tell you how to completely cure it. Might be a mapping issues all together.
Click to expand...
northernbobber said:
Hello NZ,

To be honest. The idle is still uneven. Remapping to the latest released map made it less. I have just learned to live with it more or less. Runs great otherwise and fuel economy is good. I have also replaced the the MAF after only getting max 300 in airflow and now able to hit close to 600. Also tested fuel pressure and it holds 4bar on idle and revving. On top of all else, head gasket, inlet manifold cleanup, inlet gasket, intercooler cleanup and tried a few rounds with new injector washers and orings with no difference. So I am sorry, I cannot tell you how to completely cure it. Might be a mapping issues all together.
Click to expand...


Thanks Northernobber.

Strange he?, I have just about done all the things that you have done, so I am going to
change the FPR, just in case.....

I do have 1 idea......
When the engine is looking for its idle revs, if you put your foot on the acc.pedal and
move the pedal 2 mm, the engine find its idle.
Granted the fact that the idle is a wee bit higher but it seems to disappear altogether !!
There is not much in it though, so I thought of making a small adjuster screw on the plate
of the accelerator to "screw" the stop of the pedal in a fraction further.

I know it is not the solution, but it would stop the engine trying to find the right idle.
the adjuster screw doesn't have to be very big, just enough to change the "stop" of the
pedal.

When I have done it on mine, I'll send you a picture ?!.:D

On most older diesel pumps and such like you have got more than 1 option, but with the
ECU controlled engines (fly by wire!) there is none....
Perhaps this "cheat" will do it....:p

Let you know.

Amazing he??, we are on opposite sides of the world, and yet we both have almost the
same kind of irregularities with the same engine ;)

Many thanks

Kind regards...:)
 
see my project thread, changed everything, inc injectors, CPS wire, the list goes on.
Solved? yes.
Problem... ECU fuel map corruption.... 10 min fix re blow fuel map to ecu problem gone and has stayed gone for 2 years.
Cost to fix? £80
Parts replaced before ecu fix £254:mad::(

Cause? who knows (call Scooby doo) but common theme seems to be connecting diag several times, maybe a spike / static etc? Or when changing injectors and re coding seamed to make it worse....
 
KISSMYAURA said:
see my project thread, changed everything, inc injectors, CPS wire, the list goes on.
Solved? yes.
Problem... ECU fuel map corruption.... 10 min fix re blow fuel map to ecu problem gone and has stayed gone for 2 years.
Cost to fix? £80
Parts replaced before ecu fix £254:mad::(

Cause? who knows (call Scooby doo) but common theme seems to be connecting diag several times, maybe a spike / static etc? Or when changing injectors and re coding seamed to make it worse....
Click to expand...



Thanks Kissmyaura.

Much obliged, excuse my ignorance......, how do I get to your thread please :p

Cheers
 
KISSMYAURA said:
see my project thread, changed everything, inc injectors, CPS wire, the list goes on.
Solved? yes.
Problem... ECU fuel map corruption.... 10 min fix re blow fuel map to ecu problem gone and has stayed gone for 2 years.
Cost to fix? £80
Parts replaced before ecu fix £254:mad::(

Cause? who knows (call Scooby doo) but common theme seems to be connecting diag several times, maybe a spike / static etc? Or when changing injectors and re coding seamed to make it worse....
Click to expand...
I have flashed the ecu with nanocom and various maps. The current one is the best but still not good. Do you know what map specific sorted you out?
 
northernbobber said:
I have flashed the ecu with nanocom and various maps. The current one is the best but still not good. Do you know what map specific sorted you out?
Click to expand...
Hi Mate,

it was most likely a nanocom that caused the problem, they can be a bit flakey especially if they not getting a healthy spike free power supply.
So the guys that fixed it were Alive tuning, about the best there is in the uk, its suggested that the local defender 'specialist' used a nanocom to read injector imbalances and maybe tried to blow a new fuel map, either way the likely cause was a flaky nanocom according the the chaps in the know etc.
I have a 2003 TD5 with EGR removed, it purrrs now etc.
a) Software needs to be right one for year of ECU
b) The latest version of software on ECU
c)The correct fuel map for that vehicle, engine type AND Year.
d) ECU was first calibrated, wiped, re calibrated then a-c above flashed to the chip bench tested.
Was posted back i plugged it in and sorted first key turn start

map is EU3 Defender from late 2001 to mid 2003
thats all they did no other tweeks

they did this via post!
 
Last edited:
Sounds good. Previous owner was the first owner of my td5. They had a call back when it was rather new since there was apparently some issue with the current map. After remapping it had a bad idle until i bought it. I then remapped it myself with various td5 maps with nanocom. I think they had like 4 for that specific ecu eu3. I almost got rid of the issue with the latest map they offered. But Ive bern thinking about sending it to alive. At least then i would have tried everything in remapping way anyway. The maps ive tried are specific HCPU 110, but i could still try some others too. What does the alive remapping cost? Like a few hundred?
 
northernbobber said:
Sounds good. Previous owner was the first owner of my td5. They had a call back when it was rather new since there was apparently some issue with the current map. After remapping it had a bad idle until i bought it. I then remapped it myself with various td5 maps with nanocom. I think they had like 4 for that specific ecu eu3. I almost got rid of the issue with the latest map they offered. But Ive bern thinking about sending it to alive. At least then i would have tried everything in remapping way anyway. The maps ive tried are specific HCPU 110, but i could still try some others too. What does the alive remapping cost? Like a few hundred?
Click to expand...

Cant remember exactly but is was under £150 I think, the ECU need to be calibrated so it not just the mapping software in play here, also you have two huge capacitors that might be on the fritz and need replacing. Alive check the whole thing over you may have a faulty resistor or other component, re flashing the memory causes problems as well unless done by proper diag / ecu programming software.

Speak to Gary from Alive, its what they do! he is the owner and a top chap,
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

H
Rough idle - discovery 1
Replies
3
Views
380
hi_arshard
H
H
Base idle tuning - Disco 1 - V8 3.9L
Replies
5
Views
350
discool
discool
F
P38 DSE loss of power when driving
2
Replies
34
Views
2K
Tibo W
T
D
Disco 2 D2 AAP question
Replies
9
Views
829
sierrafery
sierrafery
JPaussie26
Land Rover wont Idle!
Replies
2
Views
623
marjon
marjon
Back
Top