P38A Aaaarrrggghh!

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Jon Dor said:
Cheers, Datatec.
I had it charging at over 12amps for a couple of hours and, after speaking with Mozz, took it home to trickle charge until it hits at least 14.2v
On a separate note, Kurt said to check his integrity out with you ref his New EAS compressors and blocks.
He said you are totally shady....haha!
Click to expand...
Me shady? I have overhauled a couple of compressors for others, but generally I only do my own stuff although I do sell the EAS cable on a not for profit basis, so I'm not sure how that counts as shady:)
 
Jon Dor said:
Car will not crank. Mozz believes it's likely the CDL microswitch. There is a loose rod which I can't get to connect where it should...a circlip of sorts should be retaining it, but that's nowhere to be seen.
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Martyuk does refurbed ones. usually it is the centre one that goes as the boot-button grounds through it. It needs all 3 working for the EKA to be entered.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Martyuk does refurbed ones. usually it is the centre one that goes as the boot-button grounds through it. It needs all 3 working for the EKA to be entered.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I need to get in touch with MARTYUK again. He very kindly sent me some O-rings for my faulty EAS block.
Unfortunately, I lost the handwritten note with his contact details on that he enclosed with said O-rings.
 
Jon Dor said:
Thanks for the info. I need to get in touch with MARTYUK again. He very kindly sent me some O-rings for my faulty EAS block.
Unfortunately, I lost the handwritten note with his contact details on that he enclosed with said O-rings.
Click to expand...

He has a website but I don't have the link on my phone. P38workshop? Something like that? Someone must have it handy!
 
hi Mike , ==== martyuk website

= p38webshop.co.uk rhd door latch va1307 = £89.99
= motronic synchmate hire = £30.00 for 3 day hire + £50.00 deposit
= r f filter = £79.99
not quite sure if he has any doorpacks in stock but follow link & check on his website .
ok mike speak later , kzind regards Mozz
 
Jon Dor said:
Car will not crank. Mozz believes it's likely the CDL microswitch. There is a loose rod which I can't get to connect where it should...a circlip of sorts should be retaining it, but that's nowhere to be seen.
Click to expand...

CDL switch has nothing to do with cranking. Do you mean the rod from door handle to latch mechanism? If so this is the clip. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-MTC9290 If it is missing and rod is not connected you will not be able to open drivers door with outer handle.
 
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wammers said:
CDL switch has nothing to do with cranking. Do you mean the rod from door handle to latch mechanism? If so this is the clip. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-MTC9290 If it is missing and rod is not connected you will not be able to open drivers door with outer handle.
Click to expand...
Wammers, I managed to reconnect the rod. It was the one that reacts when the key being moved, as when inputting EKA code. After reconnecting, it was possible to lock drivers door for first since the handle was replaced after original was vandalised by some scrote 18months ago. A tiny circlip, or similar, was and still is missing, but I'm now able to mechanically lock the door AND tailgate!
 
Jon Dor said:
Wammers, I managed to reconnect the rod. It was the one that reacts when the key being moved, as when inputting EKA code. After reconnecting, it was possible to lock drivers door for first since the handle was replaced after original was vandalised by some scrote 18months ago. A tiny circlip, or similar, was and still is missing, but I'm now able to mechanically lock the door AND tailgate!
Click to expand...

The rod that connect the key lock should have an S bend at top that goes in lock arm and a L at bottom that goes into a plastic retaining clip on latch. The rod on your model of car that connects the door handle pull to the latch has a S bend at the bottom to latch, and an notched L bend at the point it locates in the door handle leaver retained by the clip i quoted in my last post. Earlier models had a S at the top on both rods and an L at the bottom to latch that located in plastic retaining clips.
 
wammers said:
The rod that connect the key lock should have an S bend at top that goes in lock arm and a L at bottom that goes into a plastic retaining clip on latch. The rod on your model of car that connects the door handle pull to the latch has a S bend at the bottom to latch, and an notched L bend at the point it locates in the door handle leaver retained by the clip i quoted in my last post. Earlier models had a S at the top on both rods and an L at the bottom to latch that located in plastic retaining clips.
Click to expand...
Thanks for clarifying that, Wammers. The rod in questions needs the spring you sent me the link for. Mozz said he has a gaggle of them so, when I speak with him on Wednesday, I'll arrange delivery of a couple of them.
 
Jon Dor said:
Thanks for clarifying that, Wammers. The rod in questions needs the spring you sent me the link for. Mozz said he has a gaggle of them so, when I speak with him on Wednesday, I'll arrange delivery of a couple of them.
Click to expand...

He deals in cake. When he brought my lathe up to me from Lincolnshire he ate a full eight inch one. Greedy git he is. :D:D
 
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