P38A A series of faults

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Slooby said:
I've been following the RSW instructions which state that you should turn the ignition to position 2, then connect the cable to the laptop and OBD port before finally starting the software.

As for the relay hard to tell what state it is in. No sign of corrosion on any of its contacts or the socket, or scorching. I popped the cover off it to see if it might need some cleaning only to discover it's solid state. Again all looked clean and sound inside, so assumed it was ok and left it be
Click to expand...
Impossible to tell visually if the EAS relay is OK.
 
Wish I'd watched the RSW relay video when it came up on a search yesterday while I was still down in Kent with the car, the test to see if it's working is crazy simple:

Annoyingly it looks like get a genuine new one isn't possible anymore, used being the only option
 
Slooby said:
Wish I'd watched the RSW relay video when it came up on a search yesterday while I was still down in Kent with the car, the test to see if it's working is crazy simple:

Annoyingly it looks like get a genuine new one isn't possible anymore, used being the only option
Click to expand...


Same with a lot of these parts now. It has been 20 years since production stopped!
 
Indeed, I wonder if there's going to be a point where it is worth reverse engineering them and using alternate new, and therefore cheaper, tech to achieve the same results? I've bought a used one from ebay, that is date coded 2006 so 10 years newer than my car, that aledgedly works, fingers crossed it actually does!
 
And back in Kent

Spare ANR4652 timer relay and freshly made pin jumper wire in hand I've been out to the RR.

Tried the RSW video jumper test on the original relay and could hear it click. Even heard it click when I turned the ignition on. Tried various combinations of connecting up the laptop and ignition. Still no comms.

Repeated with replacement relay and exactly the same. No comms between my laptop and the car.

Back to trying to find another laptop I guess
 
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Whoop whoop! Found my old Windows XP laptop complete with docking station housing a real serial port! It appears to be booting up too...even though it thinks it's 31st December 1987...

Just need to get EAS Unlock installed on it...
 
Alas I have failed to get EAS Unlock working on my older XP machine, I suspect a result of Microsoft Dot Net on it being outdated...now have the fun and games of trying to sort that out...on a machine with a 10gb hard drive that only has 12% hdd free
 
Slooby said:
Alas I have failed to get EAS Unlock working on my older XP machine, I suspect a result of Microsoft Dot Net on it being outdated...now have the fun and games of trying to sort that out...on a machine with a 10gb hard drive that only has 12% hdd free
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Netframework should not be outdated, I run an ancient XP laptop with Netframework 2 for the EAS. I always carry it in the car as it also serves for my Faultmate. It's more likely that Netframework is not installed.
 
Just trying to install it now...the XP machine takes a fair while to boot...hopefully it will recognize my usb hard drive!
 
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Well it didn't like my USB hard drive, nor .Net Framework v4, but after a bit of digging on the web installing v3.5 service pack 1 was meant to work. It was a much bigger installer and while I was there I deleted my Anti Virus software (I very much doubt this machine will be hooked back up to the net again) just in case it was blocking things.

The moving of files (USB1) took an age, as did the various uninstall, reboots and the final install with its reboot, but EAS unlock progressed to the licence page on testing, so I ventured out to the car with the laptop, power supply, docking station, wander lead and EAS cable. Got it all hooked up (ignition position 2, connect up cable to obd and laptop, start software) and hit initialize...

Success! Finally RX buffer reporting FF!

Clicked 'unlock' no fault reported though. Stopped and unhooked, fired engine up and left it idling for a bit before closing the doors with the windows open and up the car rose to normal ride height. Fixed? God knows...see what it's doing next weekend.
 
Slooby said:
Well it didn't like my USB hard drive, nor .Net Framework v4, but after a bit of digging on the web installing v3.5 service pack 1 was meant to work. It was a much bigger installer and while I was there I deleted my Anti Virus software (I very much doubt this machine will be hooked back up to the net again) just in case it was blocking things.

The moving of files (USB1) took an age, as did the various uninstall, reboots and the final install with its reboot, but EAS unlock progressed to the licence page on testing, so I ventured out to the car with the laptop, power supply, docking station, wander lead and EAS cable. Got it all hooked up (ignition position 2, connect up cable to obd and laptop, start software) and hit initialize...

Success! Finally RX buffer reporting FF!

Clicked 'unlock' no fault reported though. Stopped and unhooked, fired engine up and left it idling for a bit before closing the doors with the windows open and up the car rose to normal ride height. Fixed? God knows...see what it's doing next weekend.
Click to expand...
So either your USB to serial adaptor does not have a full RS232 implementation or the wrong driver is installed on your computer.
Glad you got it working.:D Clicking "Unlock" will not show any faults, it just clears any that are present, you need to click "Read Faults" first.
 
Oh well, I cleared the errors without reading them! Hopefully removing all the connectors in the A posts and direct soldering their wires will have fixed it

My next concern is whether the engine is going to blow oil out of the dipstick once it's properly under load, and that I can only discover by driving it on the road
 
MoT booked for Saturday morning...have had a series Baldrick level of cunning plans to get around the oil coming out the dipstick...
1) Booked MoT 0.5 miles from the house to minimise driving time on load
2) *Total bodge alert* remove dipstick, slide hose over the top of the dipstick tube and plumb back into the cam cover...:D

Knowing full well that they stick a temperature probe down the dipstick tube to perform the emissions check Option 2 is not viable :rolleyes:
 
And it has an MoT! Just in time too as my normal daily is wheels in the air while we await parts to complete tge service and a chassis update, so I really need another working vehicle rather than a field ornament.

Still looks to be pushing a bit of oil out around the dipstick; so I'm guessing the rings are tired as there is no PCV valve or breather on the block for this generation of engine. Going to take a look at the O ring on dipstick tube just in case though.
 
Slooby said:
And it has an MoT! Just in time too as my normal daily is wheels in the air while we await parts to complete tge service and a chassis update, so I really need another working vehicle rather than a field ornament.

Still looks to be pushing a bit of oil out around the dipstick; so I'm guessing the rings are tired as there is no PCV valve or breather on the block for this generation of engine. Going to take a look at the O ring on dipstick tube just in case though.
Click to expand...
They all have an oil separator either in the cam cover or external adjacent too and the gauze gets blocked leading to excess crankcase pressure.
 
That would be the cam cover I stripped down and thoroughly cleaned a while back in this rather long tale of mechanical maladies ;)

Slooby said:
And back to adding pics.
The rocker cover all stripped down and black sludge removed:
c5N8ID4.jpg


The mesh filter cleaned of sludge refitted with the cleaned up baffle plate waiting to be refitted:
4ZN391f.jpg


Baffle plate bolted back in with loctite'd screws and new seal RTV'd in place:
XGgtcHg.jpg


And then the modified bonded (RTV again) and screwed in place breather vent:
1TaPMEY.jpg


The screws are are M4x0.75 and clocked the way they are as those were the only positions where there was enough meat on the casting where I could drill and tap it

Rocker cover is now back on the engine, seal seamed to go in ok, and torqued down
Click to expand...

The dipstick 'O' ring was a little slack and misshapen, I discovered this after dumping a fair bit of oil on the ground because of course the oil level is above the dipstick orrifice in the sump :oops: Managed to find and fit one that was a little bit more 'plump' than the one it replaced. Fingers crossed it will make a difference.

Currently sitting in Kwik-Fit waiting to get my tracking done, before going off in it to collect my son...fingers crossed it will behave on that 90 minute round trip taking in the attractions of the southside of the M25 and I won't have to spend any of that time on the hard shoulder!
 
First leg of the trip complete and sitting at Chobham services waiting for my ex to arrive.

Bit of an oil leak from somewhere around the dipstick area, but seems to be coming down the side of the block from higher up. Most odd. Could be the cam cover I guess, despite me installing a new gasket.

Also HVAC appears to be (unsurprisingly) faulty as it is blowing warm air out on the near side despite both sides set to 'LO'

Cruise control also not functional, but 70 is achievable without it needing to be thrashed.

Sagging headlining is annoying. Need to look at the instrument cluster back lights, I suspect I have the LED's in the wrong way round
 
Slooby said:
First leg of the trip complete and sitting at Chobham services waiting for my ex to arrive.

Bit of an oil leak from somewhere around the dipstick area, but seems to be coming down the side of the block from higher up. Most odd. Could be the cam cover I guess, despite me installing a new gasket.

Also HVAC appears to be (unsurprisingly) faulty as it is blowing warm air out on the near side despite both sides set to 'LO'

Cruise control also not functional, but 70 is achievable without it needing to be thrashed.

Sagging headlining is annoying. Need to look at the instrument cluster back lights, I suspect I have the LED's in the wrong way round
Click to expand...
Check the leak off pipes.
It will be the blend motor not the HEVAC that is at fault.
 
I replaced the leak off pipes on the injectors when I had the inlet manifold off to fit new glow plugs.

Will dig my Borescope out tomorrow for a look around

I had a sneaking suspicion it would be the blend motors...will do some research
 
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