A loose bolt on CAM sensor

Arctic2 said:

I will double check tomorrow it's been so long now 2012 i think it was, will need to go through my photos, but i think once you have got it started the top unscrews.

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ajfarrell said:

I think the sensor head screws off, the fitting on the slide hammer loosens it but the frame of the oil filler cap is in way unscrewing the first injector.

Just to note brought the car for 200 mile drive to Cork today with work and never sounded better, but getting it to start was hassle. Had to get mate to jump start, after about 6 attempts came to life. Battery is 10 years old so bought new one today for the long trip (with old fully charged in the boot!).

I get the feeling it must be the glow plugs, so will do a resistance test when I get back to Dublin. Do you have any photos to show how to test the glow plugs with a voltmeter?

Many thanks Artic,
A

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ajfarrell said:

Diesel leaked from dodgey injector on way home, ended up being a piggy back with AA flat bed

Managed to remove the injector as per photos shown below as follows:
1. Loosen the injector using side hammer kit 30mm socket.

2. This loosens it enough to unscrew head using a spring grip wrench (30mm).

3. Remove head, attach slide hammer with injector attachment and plenty of Molly injector remover. Then 3 hefty upward whacks, injector freed.

4. Checked the injector - the washer was off left at bottom of well.

5. Looked pretty worn… cleaned up and refitted, won’t start. So disconnecting the head seems to have left stuck open stopping pressure build up to start the car.

6. Ordered refurbished injector from uk supplier so should work no bother.

Hopefully will resolve, and changing the glow plugs too just to be sure.

Question - do new injectors work from the box or does it need to be mapped using a programming machine?

Cheers

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Arctic2 said:

Hi ajfarrell.
When you removed the top did you notice any shims or collet, spring etc, and if so were these put back in, and the top tightened down properly, of cause you are using new copper washers yes.

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Forgot to post this up earlier in the thread.

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The tips of the injectors can be removed with care and cleaned, i always do this to make sure the spray pattern is good.

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with the above removed you can then use carb cleaner or brake disc cleaner, to spray into the nozzle, this cleans out the spray pattern holes, which are as fine as an hair on your head.

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The above usually sorts out the spray pattern.

More cleaning can be done but it is very invasive.

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When fitting a new injector there should be no coding for the FL1 TD4 but the same number must match those already in the FL.
This is a R40 one FL1 is different

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Manifold off for changing the glow plugs use a good six sided deep socket, maybe also spray some plus gas round them the day or night before removing, again always nice to have the engine hot helps with removal.

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turn slow not a bull at a gate.

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do the rest the same.

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Bit of copper grease on the new ones or your choice of grease,

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good luck

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Arctic2 said:

Hi ajfarrell.
When you removed the top did you notice any shims or collet, spring etc, and if so were these put back in, and the top tightened down properly, of cause you are using new copper washers yes.

1

2

3

4

Forgot to post this up earlier in the thread.

5

The tips of the injectors can be removed with care and cleaned, i always do this to make sure the spray pattern is good.

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

with the above removed you can then use carb cleaner or brake disc cleaner, to spray into the nozzle, this cleans out the spray pattern holes, which are as fine as an hair on your head.

13

14

The above usually sorts out the spray pattern.

More cleaning can be done but it is very invasive.

15

When fitting a new injector there should be no coding for the FL1 TD4 but the same number must match those already in the FL.
This is a R40 one FL1 is different

16

17

Manifold off for changing the glow plugs use a good six sided deep socket, maybe also spray some plus gas round them the day or night before removing, again always nice to have the engine hot helps with removal.

18

19

turn slow not a bull at a gate.

20

21

do the rest the same.

22

Bit of copper grease on the new ones or your choice of grease,

23

good luck

​

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andyfreelandy said:

Fit a pipe and a syringe and pull the syringe out to see if the valve opens !!

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ajfarrell said:

Finally got new injector in to replace faulty one, then had to take all out again as wouldn’t start… because didn’t fix the copper washers in place with ‘ceramic grease’.

Now I’ve done that, starts no problem at all… except big puff of white smoke near the EGR, after revs the hose there is leaking at jubilee clip and EGR.

Took off EGR was dirty, cleaned it but looks like the top manifold is badly caked with carbon so will power wash.

Final question - how can I test if the EGR is actually working? Should I just buy a new EGR since this one is 20 years old? Blanking isn’t my preference as less NOx with the standard design plus no MOT issues…

Please see photos attached for insights:
1. Photos of injectors show new in left (dry), with existing ones to right, one has diesel leaked half way up the other all the way up one not at all (this was after taking out having not inserted with ceramic grease indicating they didn’t land proper twice).

2. Photo of EGR after clean…but is it working?

Many many thanks for any feedback, especially artic who sent so much good advice.

Best,
Anthony

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Arctic2 said:

Yes it's best if you can remove the manifold and clean it out, you must first remove the MAP sensor from the side of the manifold, 10mm small bolt, give that a wipe over with a clean rag under no circumstances poke anything into the hole of the sensor.

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As you can se the MAP also gets clogged up but a wipe over should clean it.

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I have been cleaning manifolds EGR and MAP sensors since late 2011/early 2012. up to present day.

Your manifold is about a 5 that being 1 is clean 10 is really dirty.

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This is a 1 cleaned by using oven cleaner, left to soak over night, and jet washed out remembering the MAP is removed, all rubber seals removed.

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You can clean the EGR with an old or new tooth brush & some Swarfega, wiping out as you go along with old rags, once all or most of the black gunk is removed spray inside with brake cleaner.

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I also fit gutted EGR so the problem does not happen again.

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again been doing then since 2012.

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Pas the MOT easy.

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Freddie17 said:

I can vouch for these from Arctic… and no issues at all with mot.

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ajfarrell said:

Any ideas on this? Coolant temperature on obd2 was 70 Deg C but that seems ok?

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Freddie17 said:

I can vouch for these from Arctic… and no issues at all with mot.

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ajfarrell said:

Going to change out oil today - just double checking that 5W 40 FULLY synthetic is the best given already at 120k miles and to orient bearings etc (thanks Nodge)?

Best,
Anthony

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Nodge68 said:

There are 2 schools of thought on oil grades.
The first is that bearing wear on these engines is minimal, so using the recommended 5w30 is all that's needed, especially as a 30 grade can flow through narrow oil ways faster.
The second school of thought is that a 40 grade will support the bearings better, as the running clearances increase with mileage, although at 120k, I'd not expect to see much wear.
I tried both grades in my TD4, finding minimal difference between the two, but the engine definitely sounded less noisy with the 40 grade oil, but my FL1 TD4 had more than 120k on it, about 160 IIRC.

I use fully synthetic 5w30 in my FL2, and buy it in 20L barrels, which is the cheapest way to obtain engine oil. I measured the big end bearings on my FL2 at 120k, and found no measurable wear on the factory clearance.

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Arctic2 said:

Yes it's best if you can remove the manifold and clean it out, you must first remove the MAP sensor from the side of the manifold, 10mm small bolt, give that a wipe over with a clean rag under no circumstances poke anything into the hole of the sensor.

1

2

As you can se the MAP also gets clogged up but a wipe over should clean it.

3

I have been cleaning manifolds EGR and MAP sensors since late 2011/early 2012. up to present day.

Your manifold is about a 5 that being 1 is clean 10 is really dirty.

4

5

6

This is a 1 cleaned by using oven cleaner, left to soak over night, and jet washed out remembering the MAP is removed, all rubber seals removed.

7

You can clean the EGR with an old or new tooth brush & some Swarfega, wiping out as you go along with old rags, once all or most of the black gunk is removed spray inside with brake cleaner.

8

I also fit gutted EGR so the problem does not happen again.

9

10

11

again been doing then since 2012.

12

13

14


Pass the MOT easy.

15

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ajfarrell said:

Hi Artic, what’s the best way to cushion the impact of the left hand screw just under the turbo cooler hose (viewing from from vehicle) as is cutting into tube wall and likely to create a hole if not avoided?

Best,
Anthony

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